A Tad O.T.:

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Mar 1, 2002
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I saw a product at McCoy's Building Marerials a year or so ago and again Wed. Has anybody used any Gorilla Glue? I would like to know whether it is as good as advertised. Super Glue dries too fast for the project that I have right now. But, I need something that will stay put when I get done.

Yvsa: The outfit that originally made Bondini sold that glue and have a new one out that is a brush on. The only problem I see with it is the small bottles. Opening and closeing seems to be easier though. "Brush On Future Glue" white bottle, Red, black, yellow, and white label. I found it at Home Depot. :)
 
I've used Gorilla Glue (aka polyurethane glue) and like it for some things. It has a fairly long set-up time (unlike, say, yellow carpenter's glue). What's neat is you only need to put it on one piece to be glued, then just moisten the other piece with a damp sponge or paper towel, because it cures in the presence of moisture. But it does have to be clamped while it sets, unlike the cyanoacrylate superglues. When the polyurethane glue dries, it creates a foam that oozes out -- no harder to clean up than any other glue. But be aware that while that foam looks like it gets into every crevice (and undoubtedly does), it doesn't provide any gap-filling strength, so it's not a good choice for a poorly fitting joint. (For that, epoxy is what you want.)

Don't buy more than you need, though, pappy. Over the course of a year it tends to set up inside the tube.

I don't know what it is you want to glue, but if it's not wood, I'd tend to stick with a 5-minute epoxy rather than use Gorilla.

Hope this helps.
 
Originally posted by Pappy
Super Glue dries too fast for the project that I have right now. But, I need something that will stay put when I get done.

Yvsa: The outfit that originally made Bondini sold that glue and have a new one out that is a brush on.
The only problem I see with it is the small bottles.
Opening and closeing seems to be easier though.
"Brush On Future Glue" white bottle, Red, black, yellow, and white label. I found it at Home Depot. :)

Pappy, like you I've only seen the Gorilla Glue and from what I understand I have to say that Russ knows his product.
I've used "a polyurethane" glue before to glue my Flutes together, but it didn't work because of the foam Russ mentions.
Just plain nasty stuff if you ask me, but in certain applications just what the doc ordered!!!!
I went back to the Yellow Carpenter's Glue and as usual the best was right in front of me all the time.:)
 
I have used the Gorilla glue for several years. For gluing the seats of chairs, construction joints & etc. it is great. I use it quite a bit on Osmose treated lumber to be used outside & it is great for that. As has been stated, it has to be used in a joint that is clamped or otherwise put under some pressure while it cures. For jobs where I want a little gap-filling ability, & don't want to contend with the bubbles & etc., AutoZone has a 30-minute, two part epoxy that comes in a syringe. Push out what you need, mix the two parts & use. The syringe will re-cap. I have just about quit using Gorilla glue in favor of this stuff. Threw the card away on the last tube I bought or i could give you a part number. This epoxy doesn't seem to be quite as brittle when it sets up & it is impervious to alcohol, water, gasoline & etc. I've never used it in the presence of gas, but a feller out at work patched a gas tank with it & it is holding fine. I like this better than the 5-minute or instant stuff & so far, have not had any failures on anything i have used it on, & haven't had the bubbles, runs, & etc. you usually get out of Gorilla glue.
 
After the info you gents have given me I think I will stick to Weldwood, Epoxy, and my Cutler's Resin. I wondered about it because it is advertised as the strongest glue in the world.

I usually clamp wood to wood parts anyway but, I don't have to wait till the next day to remove the clamps. Thanks again for the information. I knew that I'd get good scoop from the HI forum.:) :D
 
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