A2 and food prep?

My Bark River Woodland Professional in A2 has never rusted or pitted despite minimal care. Mike Stewart's heat treat of that steel is outstanding IMHO. It has around 6% chromium I believe, enough to make it better at resisting corrosion than simple high carbon steels like O1 and 1095.
 
Alberta Ed said:
My Bark River Woodland Professional in A2 has never rusted or pitted despite minimal care. Mike Stewart's heat treat of that steel is outstanding IMHO. It has around 6% chromium I believe, enough to make it better at resisting corrosion than simple high carbon steels like O1 and 1095.
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Trouble is, how do you know it’s A2? :)
 
brownshoe said:
Trouble is, how do you know it’s A2? :)
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That's how it was advertised and marked. Despite the disparaging affectation by some forum members here, I have had nothing but positive experiences with the several Marbles I own (Campcraft, Fieldcraft, 52100 steel), and personal contacts with Mike Stewart. Here's what he responded when I asked him about A2 for a review here on BF: “All of our blades are double quenched to maximize any growth or refinement in the blank. We then refine the grain structure with alternating draw and cryo processing. A-2 has a very fine grain structure. Our complicated process makes the best use of all ferric, chromium, molybdenum and vanadium carbides in the steel. I have had others ask the same question and if my answer is a little non-specific, it is due to the fact that I am reluctant to give out details that I consider a trade secret. Please do not think that I am one of the individuals that think I am some master of steel. I have been making knives for over 20 years and have found methods that really make steel perform to a much higher degree than most others. I was the first semi-production or production maker that used 52-100 on a regular basis. My choice of A-2 for the Bark River line was because it is a real performer if treated and ground properly. Most collectors and users don’t know that when purchased in large batches, 52-100 actually costs one fourth the price of A-2. Trust me, if I thought that steel like 52-100 were better I would use it. In short, maximum grain growth is an oversimplification of terms but the process the way we do it does eliminate any molecular voids and gives a stronger and more uniform blade.”
 
I like my Teddy 2 a bunch but it's not really my first pick for food prep. I'm sure it would do fine for cutting up chunks of stuff for stew but it's too large and heavy for long periods of thin slicing. ( 8 inches long and .25 inch thick if I recall)

I will say that the last batch of Teddy 2 knives sold out fairly quickly. At least the ones I liked did. When they are released don't snooze and even pre order if possible. A2 does take a little care but it is far from being the easiest corroding steel I regularly use. O1 and 1095 seem like they corrode faster but as always the type and quality of the finish of the blade matters too and not just the steel type .
 
A2 doesn’t rust “easily”. It can be left for several hours after contact with food, easily. It will stain. I wouldn’t let it sit any longer than that though.
 
A2 should be absolutely fine with a little care, just wipe down after use. If you think it's bad try some Aogami Blue or Blue super, you only have to look at it and it rusts. But I love mine as they take on such a beautiful patina.

My favourite food prep steel is Konosukes modified Aeb-L, so Aeb-L at high hardness is wonderful for food.
 
In my experience it’s difficult to get A2 to stain or take a patina. It turns grey like D2, and that’s only if it’s left out with acidic stuff on it.

All I do with A2 knives after use is wash with dish soap and dry them well. No oil required, really.
 
Alberta Ed said:
That's how it was advertised and marked. Despite the disparaging affectation by some forum members here, I have had nothing but positive experiences with the several Marbles I own (Campcraft, Fieldcraft, 52100 steel), and personal contacts with Mike Stewart. Here's what he responded when I asked him about A2 for a review here on BF: “All of our blades are double quenched to maximize any growth or refinement in the blank. We then refine the grain structure with alternating draw and cryo processing. A-2 has a very fine grain structure. Our complicated process makes the best use of all ferric, chromium, molybdenum and vanadium carbides in the steel. I have had others ask the same question and if my answer is a little non-specific, it is due to the fact that I am reluctant to give out details that I consider a trade secret. Please do not think that I am one of the individuals that think I am some master of steel. I have been making knives for over 20 years and have found methods that really make steel perform to a much higher degree than most others. I was the first semi-production or production maker that used 52-100 on a regular basis. My choice of A-2 for the Bark River line was because it is a real performer if treated and ground properly. Most collectors and users don’t know that when purchased in large batches, 52-100 actually costs one fourth the price of A-2. Trust me, if I thought that steel like 52-100 were better I would use it. In short, maximum grain growth is an oversimplification of terms but the process the way we do it does eliminate any molecular voids and gives a stronger and more uniform blade.”
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I’ve had personal contact with Bark River’s owner. I won’t buy a Bark River due to my experience. I wouldn’t trust him to hold my dog’s leash. But that’s just me. There’s public proof that Bark River sells knives that are not made of the steel Bark River said it was. But that’s just Bladeforums.
 
Just a general question but why a Bark River Teddy 2 for food prep? Is this for outdoor cooking?
 
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