A2 Curiosity

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Dec 7, 2009
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I've been looking at a knife with an A2 blade lately. The knife is gorgeous but I'm not very familiar with A2 steel. I see that it's a tool steel. Possibly like D2 but with less chromium ? Anyway , here are my questions to any of you who are experienced with A2 :

1) I assume that since it's labeled a tool steel that it holds a decent edge for a while. True ?
2) Does this steel resist rust better than 1095 ?
3) Is patina inevitable if no oil is applied to the blade ?

Thanks for the help.
 
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1. Yes, it not only holds an edge, it takes a very fine edge
2. Yes, much better
3. Yes, A2 stains but not that bad
 
A2 is great stuff

Takes an excellent edge with ease

It responds very well to stroping.

Bark River Tracker?
 
A2 is great stuff

Takes an excellent edge with ease

It responds very well to stroping.

Bark River Tracker?

Bark River Bravo 2. Looks very nice. I'd actually prefer a similarly sized fixed blade with an uncoated stainless blade but upon seeing the Bravo 2 , I thought I'd investigate A2.

I tried a TOPS Tracker but , like everyone said here on the forums , it was too thick and in person looked gimmicky. Not my cup of tea. One of these days I'll listen.
 
Bark River Bravo 2. Looks very nice. I'd actually prefer a similarly sized fixed blade with an uncoated stainless blade but upon seeing the Bravo 2 , I thought I'd investigate A2.

I tried a TOPS Tracker but , like everyone said here on the forums , it was too thick and in person looked gimmicky. Not my cup of tea. One of these days I'll listen.

You can probably find something from the Bravo line in 3V, which I think is better than A2. But another steel you see in a lot of bushcrafter knives is O1, and I do think A2 is superior to O1.
I didn't care for O1 very much at all, when compared to what else is out there.
 
You can probably find something from the Bravo line in 3V, which I think is better than A2. But another steel you see in a lot of bushcrafter knives is O1, and I do think A2 is superior to O1.
I didn't care for O1 very much at all, when compared to what else is out there.

How come you prefer 3V over A2 ?
 
How come you prefer 3V over A2 ?

http://zknives.com/knives/steels/steelgraph.php?nm=A2%2C%203V&ni=11,&hrn=1&gm=0

They are similar, but 3V is just cranked up a little more. Like the difference between S30V and S35VN I guess...
In the applications you will likely be using a camp / bushcrafting knife for, 3V just excels a bit more. But just a bit. You should still go with the knife you like best, regardless if it's 3V or A2 because I don't think the difference is super noticeable, but ymmv of course...

I'm sure someone else with more steel knowledge than me can weigh in on the differences.
But 3V is regarded very highly right now in the fixed blade world...
 
Thanks for the link. Very informative.

Also , any decent camping fixed blades available with uncoated stainless blades (from any quality makers) ? I like the size and shape of the Bravo 2 so maybe something similar to that.

As of right now I'm liking the Bravo 2. But I may check out Fallkniven although I hear that they are a bit pricey. Worth a look though.
 
3v is tougher than a2 and holds an edge better. It also has better corrosion resistance. So in short 3v is better in every aspect.
 
Bark River has a killer steel line up.

3v seems to be everyone's favorite fixed blade steel.

You can't go wrong with any, they each have there merits.

They do have an advantage to Fallknivens steel line up with their well balanced selection wear resistance? S35vn, incredible toughness?3v. Ease of sharpening? A2

I'm biased though.

I have a strong affinity towards Fallknivens.

I prefer ease of sharpening with lack of maintenance.

Because of the beatiful wet area I live in and the long hikes into the wilderness to get there.

The way I use my knives, I get more performance with them with high sharpness, low maintenance, and ease of sharpening.
My tastes are different then most.
I'm a freak about simplicity, sharpness and Scandinavian designs and forbidden Japanese steels

The edges are unforgiving to user error however and there is no beautiful handles and fancy leather sheaths or bark rivers amazing warranty.

Honestly,

I think more dudes are happier with Bark River and 3v.

Get the 3v Bravo 2 bro
 
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I'll give you one reason to really like 3V... It's the easiest steel out there. It's a high performance steel that any beginner can master.

I've used this steel a lot since joining this forum. My first nice knife was made out of 3v. It's easy to sharpen. 8-9 minutes tops to re-apex a worn edge to shaving sharp condition. Excellent wear resistance. I can get 1.5 hours of woodworking on hardwood before the "fine" edge will start to wane. I can get another 4 before I'd elect to touch up the edge, and I'm anal. That's a "touch up" mind you. It has excellent corrosion resistance. (I've tested this steel due to curiosity) I've left orange juice on it for 4 hours, it only stained a little bit. That means you don't need to service it soon after use. I've read one claim that a 3V knife was used to prep dinner and left overnight before it was cleaned the next morning, no issues. The tang of my blade has never rusted even after all that exposure to the salty sweat of my hand. Lastly, 3V is so tough you can error and not have to worry about damaging the edge. IE you can drop it on a rock, at most the edge would micro-nic. Easily sharpened out.

Spend the extra $35.00 and go with 3V. You'll recoup that extra cost over time because 3V doesn't require immediate maintenance after use and it requires less overall maintenance. It just works.
 
Yea I have big Chris 3v and Daniel winkler 3v .... Freaking awesome.
 
3v is tougher than a2 and holds an edge better. It also has better corrosion resistance. So in short 3v is better in every aspect.

Yes, all but price :D

I have a Bravo 2 in A2. Wish it were 3v but it is still really nice. Don't know how thick the TOPs the OP had was but the Bravo 2 is still thick but it has that convex grind. Pictures?

j2X3zIOh.jpg

q4JfkuLh.jpg

mEbmBmQh.jpg

oVitZ36h.jpg

hg9sWD0h.jpg
 
I use almost exclusively A-2 hand plane blades. Mostly because that was what was available when I was buying them. It was considered a step up from "normal" plane blades. There have since been some advances / options made available. As I have said before, as I see it, A-2 is the "Big Dumb Head" of blade steels. Not spectacular at any one thing but just keeps cutting and won't give up / won't chip. It doesn't stay really sharp long but the working edge is pretty tough.

Some say you can get other steels sharper. Using jigs designed for these blades and water stones up to 8,000 I can consistently put an edge on them that will shave curls off a single hair while it is still in your arm (as seen through my jeweler's visor). AND that's with a 45 to 54° edge. Soooooo . . . good enough in the sharpen ability department. :thumbup:



While sharpening a non stainless plane blade on water stones it would rust up as I rinsed it under hot running water and dried it. The A-2 would show no perceivable rust under the same regime but over time it could be made to show some oxidation.

This planing session was just to do some minor flattening and put on a "smooth planed" surface in preparation for finish. The blades did much much more rough planing work in previous sessions. See last photo. The wood is bubinga and is particularly hard to plane and some times fairly abrasive due to minerals in the wood. To do the same work with a lesser steel would have been more difficult or nearly impossible due to the hardness of the wood / wear on the cutting edges. Many would have resorted to a big O belt sander rather than plane it all by hand.

So yah . . . A-2 is good stuff.












By the way there is no stain or dye applied . . . that is the normal color of bubinga with a clear finish (in this case French polished shellac over Malloof finish). No sandpaper was used at all.

PS: A-2 is so tough that it just polishes a normal Hard Arkansas stone and won't be sharpen by it (no metal coming off into the pores of the stone. The whole surface of that stone was shiny like that I just couldn't capture it in the photo). Really good, man made, water stones are a must to sharpen it.



 
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Yup I conveniently left out price lol

And damn it, when ever you post your rmd I'm reminded it has been calling my name for a LONG time.. I just keep buying other stuff, sigh. We need to do a temporary trade so I can try out the rmd... Lol


On the bright side I got a blackjack hawk coming in today and an rmj shrike on Monday :D
Yes, all but price :D

I have a Bravo 2 in A2. Wish it were 3v but it is still really nice. Don't know how thick the TOPs the OP had was but the Bravo 2 is still thick but it has that convex grind. Pictures?

j2X3zIOh.jpg

q4JfkuLh.jpg

mEbmBmQh.jpg

oVitZ36h.jpg

hg9sWD0h.jpg
 
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