A2 Curiosity

Craytab , awesome pics. You have a nice collection there.

I like the looks and dimensions (from what I can tell online) of the Bravo2 better than the TOPS Tracker.

I'm thrilled to see the huge selection of Bark Rivers that KSF has. I've never ordered from them before. This will be my first.
 
Here is a side by side comparison. The overall length is nearly identical at 11 7/8" for the Tracker and 12 1/4" with the Bravo 2. They are close in spine thickness at .225 and .220. As shown the knives themselves weighed in at 1 pound 4.7 ounces and 14 ounces. The Bravo 2 is a little blade heavy but not like the tracker when holding it in either position.

Both sheaths are nice. The kydex is very secure with the tracker but I like the leather sheath more with the whole Bravo line. It drops the knife down more plus it still has the strap for retention and the little firesteel loop.

I also like the 3v steel more than A2, mostly for it's much better corrosion resistance.

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Hopefully that gives you a better idea since you already know what the tracker is like and gives anyone else looking at both knives a better reference too.
 
Excellent comparison pic. It helps put things (the knives) in perspective.

The sheath for the Bravo2 is gorgeous.
 
I think A2 is a pretty cool steel that performs in a way that is similar to 3V, but for less money. That savings doesn't seem to translate with BRK and some other makes, which is too bad. A2 should be a closer in price to O1 while offering a some advantages.

But if I had to choose between a $200 A2 knife and a $230 3V, I don't see why I wouldn't go up. I just can't see spending $200 on any straightforward field knife made of something like A2, D2, 1095 or O1.
 
Here's some 3/16" A2 for you. Almost zero bevel grind.

 
Have owned and used several in A2, both CRK one piece and Bark River. They have all done what I needed done. Never a problem with corrosion and they sharpened easily. A2 is good, never tried 3V
 
Just noticed the Teddy ll.....Awesome.

Question : Are all Bark River Knives made with full tang construction ?
 
Not all of them, but there are many that are full tang.

I have a hard time keeping track of all the models. With the different steel variations there are over different options.
 
Just emailed BRK asking if the Teddy ll is full tang. I'm hoping it is.

There are some beautiful wood handle options available for the Teddy ll. I think I'm going to buy this knife soon (as long as it's full tang). Also , I'm trying to decide if the various wood handles are worth the extra money over the micarta handle (@ $65 difference on average for what I'm looking at).

I'm on a hot knife buying streak lately 😊
 
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Wolverine666 said:
Just emailed BRK asking if the Teddy ll is full tang. I'm hoping it is.

There are some beautiful wood handle options available for the Teddy ll. I think I'm going to buy this knife soon (as long as it's full tang). Also , I'm trying to decide if the various wood handles are worth the extra money over the micarta handle (@ $65 difference on average for what I'm looking at).

I'm on a hot knife buying streak lately 😊
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Lots of people like wood over micarta. I am not one of them. I like the look and feel of micarta much better. I'd pay more for it! This is all about personal taste though. Depending on the wood or treatment there of it can shrink or swell with environment as a key factor.
 
craytab said:
Lots of people like wood over micarta. I am not one of them. I like the look and feel of micarta much better. I'd pay more for it! This is all about personal taste though. Depending on the wood or treatment there of it can shrink or swell with environment as a key factor.
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That's something I had not thought of. Good point. The look of some of the wood is sexy , I admit. But I plan on putting this knife through its paces this spring and summer. I'd hate for the humidity to swell up the handle. The micarta is still attractive (and less expensive).

And just to be clear , Micarta does not swell or shrink due to temp and humidity ?
 
Wolverine666 said:
And just to be clear , Micarta does not swell or shrink due to temp and humidity ?
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Nope. This is why I love Micarta and G10: they will likely outlive all of us without any change.

A2 will rust with the Humidity in the summer though, at least it does here in Eastern Pa. My wife is from Boston so I know your weather as well. It is very similar in the summer. Humid with Thunderstorms. The exposed tangs of my Bravo 2 and RMD (SR101) kept developing rust spots even just sitting in their sheaths. Not bad mind you, but still there, the blades themselves seemed fine. The spots easily came off with some high grit sand paper (>=1500), just a quick wipe but I got tired of doing this. I forced a vinegar patina on the exposed tang and no more rust spots in the summer. 3v will hold up better to rust and patina so there is another plus for 3v.
 
Thank you for the heads up about A2. Question : can you suggest another knife in size , shape and style similar to the Teddy ll that has a stainless steel blade ?
 
The Teddy II is a full hidden tang. You can see the little nut on the pommel end of the knife.

Do you need the guard like the teddy? If not get the bravo 2 in 3v you were looking at then add a slight clip point and swedge like the teddy. When buying new there is no charge for the blade mod but you won't be able to return it either.
 
Wolverine666 said:
Just emailed BRK asking if the Teddy ll is full tang. I'm hoping it is.

There are some beautiful wood handle options available for the Teddy ll. I think I'm going to buy this knife soon (as long as it's full tang). Also , I'm trying to decide if the various wood handles are worth the extra money over the micarta handle (@ $65 difference on average for what I'm looking at).

I'm on a hot knife buying streak lately 😊
Click to expand...

The Teddy II is a hidden tang which goes all the way through with a tang nut at the pommel. Bark River did a great job on this knife and they have an amazing warranty. If you love this knife go for it. Buy what you like. I have several wood handles and I work them just as hard as micarta. Either way, they all look very nice with the handle spacers next to the wood or micarta.

With regard to A2, don't let it scare you away from a knife you like. Its a great steel that will work hard. Since the tang isn't exposed you don't have to worry about it rusting or tarnishing and you can put a thin coat of oil on it when not in use. I spend a fair amount of time in Florida, a lot o humidity. I just put a thin coat of oil on my carbon steel knives. Most of my hand tools need it too.
 
WowBagger that's a great table! Looks like Lee Valley low angle blades. Mine are all D2 as A2 was not an option then. Just re-profiled a 30 degree blade to 29 degrees with Silicon, Diamonds, Water stones to 8000, only took 4 hours! Those thick blades can take some serious work. What blade angle did you use for the Bubinga final shave? Have you tried the D2 blades?
 
Well I do prefer the look and size of the Teddy ll so as long as the blade stays rust-free I'll be happy.

Then again the Bravo2 with 3V would be sweet as well. I'll have to make my choice soon since I'm getting anxious and I'll be buying it next week at the latest.

I feel like I'm late to the party since I've just gotten into BRK recently. But better late than never.
 
Wood expands and shrinks, even "stabilized" woods. Synthetics don't.

Don't mind this BS because it's common on BF:

"My wood handle knife is fine. It never shrank or expanded."

That's a red herring. It doesn't change the fact that even treated woods can shrink and expand depending on conditions. Synthetics won't. On top of that, synthetics cost less.

Here is a pointed question to ask: "Can I return the knife if the scales separate away from the tang for any reason?" They will probably recommend synthetics at that point because ethical sellers DO know the risks of wood (while unethical sellers won't tell you until after the scales separate away from the handle and then blame you for misuse).

Why wood? It's boutique and it looks cool, and grandpa taught me how to use it. No other reasons really.

Good luck vetting out quality information. It's worth your time seeking out. Cheers.
 
craytab said:
Nope. This is why I love Micarta and G10: they will likely outlive all of us without any change.

A2 will rust with the Humidity in the summer though, at least it does here in Eastern Pa. My wife is from Boston so I know your weather as well. It is very similar in the summer. Humid with Thunderstorms. The exposed tangs of my Bravo 2 and RMD (SR101) kept developing rust spots even just sitting in their sheaths. Not bad mind you, but still there, the blades themselves seemed fine. The spots easily came off with some high grit sand paper (>=1500), just a quick wipe but I got tired of doing this. I forced a vinegar patina on the exposed tang and no more rust spots in the summer. 3v will hold up better to rust and patina so there is another plus for 3v.
Click to expand...

So the blades remained rust-free ? Why would just the exposed tang steel rust ? Maybe it's reaction to the oil in hand prints ?

And why are so many camping/outdoors knives made with A2 if it is so prone to rusting ? Wouldn't stainless steels like S30V or 154CM (or even D2 tool steel) make more sense ?
 
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