Acceptable lock engagement percentage on a new frame-lock

U

ukknifer

Joined
Jan 30, 2010
Messages
424
Hi everyone,
Whats Acceptable lock engagement percentage on a new frame-lock?

I have a new production frame-lock that has 75 or more lock engagement. Is it good or bad as I read different views.

Thanks
 
I think you should be good to go. I have knives with less than that that are still pretty rock-solid.
 
I would say it depends on the knife you have. Different blade steels react differently to titanium so you're lock bar may move over more or stay put. I would say in general you'd be safe at 75% and you shouldn't have to worry about it disengaging.
 
Thank you guys

My concern is not disengagement. I am concerned that the lock would wear out sooner. I thought 25 to 40% was acceptable. I read that titanium wears out faster than steel liners.

Thanks for your time guys
 
I look for a 25-40% lockup on a new knife.It's just a personal preference though.If it's made well it won't travel.
 
That seems pretty far over for a new framelock. But if it was, say, an Umnumzaan, then 80% seems about normal. What knife are you referring to?

Also, the engagement can change a lot based on how you take it apart and put it back together. I've seen Ti framelocks go from 50% to 10% from reassembling them a certain way, or the other way around too. Did you or someone else take apart the knife?
 
I'd say that you shouldn't need to worry about it until it nears 95% or so. At that point simply rotating the stop pin might solve your woes--especially if you like to flick your knife. It also depends on whether or not the lock face has been hardened.
 
Cynic2701 said:
I'd say that you shouldn't need to worry about it until it nears 95% or so. At that point simply rotating the stop pin might solve your woes--especially if you like to flick your knife. It also depends on whether or not the lock face has been hardened.
Click to expand...

No stop pin on that one. But the thumb studs are thick enough that they shouldn't dent significantly.

OP, if you have a problem with it and it develops blade play, Kershaw/ZT has excellent customer service. I'm sure they'll fix it for you if something happens, and it's not like this is a limited edition that won't have spare parts available.
 
Cynic2701 said:
I'd say that you shouldn't need to worry about it until it nears 95% or so. At that point simply rotating the stop pin might solve your woes--especially if you like to flick your knife. It also depends on whether or not the lock face has been hardened.
Click to expand...

I think flicking the 0561 is how you have to open it, after all it is a flipper with a ball bearing system. You may flick it easier sometimes, than other times, but flick it you will! :D
 
There is no universal answer, every manufacturer has different standards and tolerances. Chris Reeve knives have a much more "engaged" lock up at around 40-70%, this is considered normal. Rick Hinderer offers much earlier lock up, somewhe between 20-50%. Zero Tolerance is similar 30-60%, etc. Do not be scared to use the knife, use it, enjoy it, and be confident you have a high quality cutting tool.
 
Last edited:
75% is a little more than normal for a brand new framelock. Although I have no experience with the 0561, depending on how the blade tang is cut where the bar engages it the bar might stay put or it could move some more. So I guess I didn't really answer you're question, again :D
 
If it does bother you you can do the following and it may help;

Loosen all the frame screws, and the pivot screw, do so with the knife in the closed position. You do not have to do a complete diassemble, just loosen it up a good bit. Once loose, tighten down the pivot as tight as it will tighten, then tighten down your frame screws. Untighten the pivot screw slightly and keep doing so until you get to the point that you want the blade to be, then open it completely and see if the lockup position has changed any.

I have done this with several framelocks, and even with linerlocks to get an "early" engagement. It has worked with close to 75% of the knives I've done this on. It also has stayed at the early engagement and not gone back to the original engagement point. I think it is just a matter of misalignment/alignment that allows this to work.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top