Acraglas users

jtwodogs said:
Thanks, I have probably done 100 glass bedding jobs for indiviuals have gone through probably 20 kits, moved onto the family sized containers. Re-read instruction 1:1

Excerpt from directions;
MIXING YOUR ACRAGLAS GEL
ACRAGLAS GEL doesn’t have to be mixed all at one
time. The mixing ratio is 1-to-1 by volume. Do Not
weigh the resin and hardener for mixing, you’ll get the
wrong ratio.
Click to expand...

Yeah that's the gel stuff. I wondered if that might be the confusion. The gel is not the same as the regular and it's a different ratio.

I'd like to point out that they say don't weigh it you'll get the wrong ratio. That's correct if you don't account for the different density. I do weigh it, but I don't use .250, I use .263 to get an accurate mix.
 
There are different kinds of acraglass. The ones in the little plastic cups, whether regular or gel, are 1:1 ratio. In the bulk containers, it's 4:1.

I use the same syringes for very many mixes. I never clean them, other than the outside, which I keep very clean. I just squeeze them out pretty hard. The dab that stays in the little syringe tube is unaffected. I just slowly pull the plunger out, then squeeze the air all out again whenever I use it again. The syringes last probably around 50 applications.

I use a 10cc syringe for the resin, and a 2cc syringe for the hardener. It is very accurate.

Warm acraglass is a lot easier to run through syringes. It also sets way faster. I use a heat bulb in an "all position" lamp to heat Everything. Epoxy and materials.

I use popsicle sticks with an end sanded at about a 30* angle (takes 2 seconds, makes a big difference getting to ALL the epoxy in the cup), and paper dixie cups. I leave the excess epoxy in the cup, so I know when the stuff gets hard. I actually just wipe the popsicle stick and use it several times. I've never had a single issue in several hundred applications.

As an aside, Brownells also offers aluminum and stainless steel flock. It helps keep from squeezing too much epoxy out, and makes the acraglass considerably stronger.
 
Yep your right. Sorry about the confusion, I have not used the liquid for years. The stuff is good for some applications of course if you need something to flow into type thing. My problem with the stuff was that it went everywhere I did not want it to go. The "Gel" is liquid enough for my taste. More like molasses in winter, and it stays where you put it.
 
Well its a done deal now! I set a timer for mixing it was a long for minutes glad I timed it. I have to admit doing it for the first time was a bit nerve racking. I hope I did it all right :D I mixed up a lot more than I needed but didn't want to run out.
Thanks for the help everyone.
Justin
 
Though it probably doesn't matter all that much in the reality of daily use in knives, I seem to recall the glue wars thread a while back tested both forms of acraglas and found the original was slightly stronger than the gel for slab handles. I've never used the gel, so I can't comment from experience there and never found a reason to try it.

--nathan
 
Droptine5 said:
Here are some pics.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/af30/Jpgroundsguy/20140316_145721_zpszwad2lrp.jpg

http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/af30/Jpgroundsguy/20140316_153010_zps3yuefr4g.jpg
Click to expand...

Looking great Droptine! My apologies for any confusion I may have caused. I will probably pick up some liquid, if it is considered tougher, I can definitely see its benefits on a "Hidden Tang". I will use every edge I can get.
Hope you continue to give us pics of your progress.
Thanks
 
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Yes there are 2 types of Acraglas. Regular epoxy and the gel. Epoxy is 4:1 mix by volume and the gel is 1:1.
 
No problem jtwodogs, it's good to know that each has its own ratios. I had read the instructions in the kit I got and was positive it said 4:1. :)
 
I guess it is old age, I had used nothing but the gel for the last 18 years or so to bed guns, forgot all about the liquid
 
chknifemaker said:
Has anyone tested Gflex vs. acreglass?
Click to expand...


I have used both the gflex epoxies as well as the regular west systems and I would drive across town to buy acra glass before I would use either gflex if it were setting on my bench. the original west systems epoxy seems to be on par with the acra glass but I don't have the experience with it that I do with the acra glass. for a full tang knife I mix up 2cc resin and .5cc hardener. I have clamp scales as tight as I can get them to a tang and left them with no pins at all for several years now and they are still in place. just my personal experience.
 
chknifemaker said:
Has anyone tested Gflex vs. acreglass?
Click to expand...
We tested G/flex vs. Acraglas extensively. When testing was complete we stopped selling Acraglas and switched to G/flex.

Both epoxies are excellent. They both have a long shelf life of more than five years (if stored properly). The bond life of both is more than 50 years (G/Flex is an estimate based on accelerated aging tests). The deciding factor was the flexibility of G/flex. When cured, G/flex will not break if flexed. I think this is a good when used on a knife handle. If the handle flexes a little, the epoxy bond will not break. We also like the 1:1 mixing ratio, but this was a minor point.

Chuck
 
If you get any of it on you, you can clean it off with either white vinegar or WD-40. With the WD-40 spray it on, rub your hands together or wherever you get the glue on for a few minutes then wash it off with soap and water. I bought the big size from brownells and just use their measuring cups to get the ratio right. Make sure you get the cups for whatever you choose the epoxy or gel as they are different.
 
Ah, but what about the ability to polish the epoxy? You know, rubbing it into some carbon fiber or filling voids in ironwood or (gasp) an itty bitty gap? Acraglas, after a couple days, can be polished and will stay that way.
 
the first time I used gflex was for gluing some .020 g10 to mammoth tooth. after a twenty four hour drying period the g10 simply peeled off the tooth. I post that here in another thread at the time. thinking I had done something wrong I thoroughly cleaned and sanded both pieces again and tried again, similar results. Chuck at alpha called me about my posting of results when I told him what had happened he sent me a new kit. Now I have known Chuck for a number of years and like and respect him so I tried the "new" epoxy on some g 10 scales on a full tang knife I was donating to toys for tots. I epoxied the scales on and let them dry In a warm room over night. the next morning I proceeded to drill through the scales and tang to put in pins and the top scale popped loose as I was going through the tang into the second scale. I re-cleaned and sanded the scales and tang and put them on using acra glass with no problems and vowed to never use gflex in any situation where I needed to have a permanent bond.
 
Huh Bill. That certainly affects my desire to try G-Flex.

I really like Kirinite. It really is a fabulous handle material, IMHO.

But... The only failure I've ever had with Acraglass was one time Kirinite delaminated from the liner material.

I studied pretty hard before I talked to an actual scientist at Loctite. Wow, that lady was some kind of knowledgable! I came up with Loctite 324 and 330. Preliminary tests are really great, and I know that one very large producer of semi-custom knives in America uses 324.

I had to print out the page about bonding methods with different materials. You would be surprised how many different ways there are to prep different materials, but if I follow those directions, I am convinced that I'll be using Loctite quite a bit.

I just bought another quart or whatever of Acraglass though. It has more than proven itself. It's just so darn easy to use, and it covers such a wide range of uses.

You can tint it Any color, with the acrylic universal paint tint. Run down to the local paint store with half a dozen 2cc syringes, and you can make just about any color for nothing.

Like Nathan said too, you can thin Acraglass with Acraglass thinner until it's practically like water and expand it's uses to the best topcoat by far that I've ever used.

Thinning doesn't affect the strength and durability at all, so you can also clean and prime surfaces with the thinner and know you'll get the best bond.
 
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