Adhesive/Sizing Question (Tortoise Shell & Gold Foil on Micarta)

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Feb 7, 2013
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I'm inlaying tortoise shell into paper micarta scales. This application requires epoxy, not screws, to secure the inlays to the micarta.

My concern is: the tortoise shell (more accurately, the gold foil) will be secured to the micarta with epoxy, yet if I use (water soluble) sizing to secure the foil to the shell, I would think the sizing wouldn't maintain a strong enough bond to the shell. Should I bond the foil to the shell with epoxy, as well?
Thanks!
 
Water clear epoxy between both micarta, foil and shell. You do not want any yellowing down the road.
 
i would use epoxy, i think you are correct in assuming it will only be as strong as its weakest point.
 
Same advise here - use clear coat resin for all. First, bond the foil to the shell. Then after trimming to an exact fit , inlay with the same resin. West System 105 and 205, or System Three clear coat. The system Three comes in a smaller quantity.
 
If by "sizing" you're talking about hide glue/rabbit skin glue, you can, if you're wanting to go traditional, use it for everything, as an alternative to epoxy. You need to use the right grade though, not just the canvas sizing variety that's sold for that purpose.

It is amazing stuff though, I think most here would be highly surprised by how strong a glue it is, and the advantages of it. Bear in mind, this is what's holding together 300 year old Stradivarius' under immense tension, that are still being carted around the world regularly and played by their current care-takers. The really nice thing about it is the ability to de-bond under controlled circumstances, which allows for easy repairs.

It's also the traditional adhesive for attaching gold leaf and tortoise, and that to whatever else.


The best epoxies on the other hand, often require the destruction of the material bonding it to remove it. Of course, if you don't have domed pins, or some other type of mechanical fastener, I'd say epoxy is mandatory, but if you are building something really traditional, you may want to consider the above.

Clear Silicone is a good option also, very few people use it in knives, and it's nothing like epoxy, but if you have something you want to adhere well, but only as a supplement to mechanical fasteners, like screws or domed pins, that can be taken apart for cleaning or repair easily, it works great, and cleans up super nicely.

It's a really great way to seal removable scales without making it a massive chore to detach later. It moves with the material, but has enough adhesion to keep from developing a gap between thin liners and whatever, as an example. I've used it in a few cases where I knew a customer wanted to use a higher end pocket knife for a while, and then have me clean it back up to presentation quality for their collection.
 
The sizing that he is referring to is not exactly a glue.

Sizing used in gold leafing is a very light adhesive. Banana oil used to be one of the most popular types. Now, there are several types. Many do most of their holding by surface contact and not by any real gluing. A backing varnish is pained over it to make the foil more durable. In this application, the foil is a reflective surface below the translucent tortoise shell. It merely needs to stay in place during the trimming and fitting. The epoxy or other glue used to hold the shell inlay in the handle is what makes the main bond. In this case, the traditional leafing sizings would not provide much grip to prevent a possible lifting of the inlay due to heat or warpage. That is why I suggested using the epoxy to size the foil to the shell, and the same epoxy to glue the shell in the handle recess. That would be just about as strong and permanent as you could get.
 
Good info Stacy, I read somewhere that hide glue was used for sizing of some type, at some point, in the past. That coupled with the fact that hide glue is the traditional adhesive for this application, I wanted to add some info in case there was a communication/jargon barrier.

I agree though, epoxy it all if you're using epoxy.
 
As taught to me by Don Hanson...
...mix the water clear epoxy, coat back of shell and face of liner with epoxy, turn liner epoxy down and touch gold leaf, move over to shell and touch it. Lightly clamp til cured and clean up or grind to liner perimeter.
 
I thought I'd post an update. I was delayed in the middle of this project due to a household move, but I've finally got around to the hard part.
I'm using the tortoise shell as an inlays, but all seems to be going quite well (up to this point, at least).
I'm doing a complete run-through with a test piece before I start on the actual scales.

1) Water clear epoxy the gold leaf to the shell. 2) Same epoxy to secure shell/gold leaf to scale. 3) Fill micro-gaps with black epoxy. 4) (Yet to be done) Sand inlays flush with inlay pocket and polish everything again.

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Wow the tortoise shell is beautiful. You are lucky to have it, how old is it?
 
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