So: some of the notable advantages and disadvantages of hollow grinds.
Rigidity increases cubically with thickness, and the flipside of that is also true. As a result of this, creating a blade that's thin but rigid without becoming very wide to hit a necessary spine thickness is a challenge. A hollow grind allows a thick spine, but without imposing a set limit on how thick the initial geometry behind the edge is. The deeper the hollowing is, the more sudden the transition into the spine becomes, and the more wedging the blade becomes in certain materials, so good hollow grind design works to minimize that. The edge will thicken less as you wear back into the blade relative to flat grinds or convexes, as well, which means less work in preserving a thin geometry. They're less resistant to torquing damage at the edge, however, and so this needs to be taken into account with how thin they're taken depending on the intended context of use.
I'd personally call the hollow grind on the Buck 110 just "passable". It's not as narrowly done as a lot of hollow grinds, but it could be done a lot better. The 110 is a case where it's designed for strength and ease of maintenance and that's dialed in fine for the market it targets, but it's not the most efficient grind for folks who aren't going to be digging with the point and using the knife like a demolition bar. The plunge line is brought to the line of the tip to keep the tip strength at the maximum for the stock thickness when a slightly less hollow full-height grind would be a better optimization in my opinion. The full-height gradual hollow of the classic Douk-Douk is a perfect example of a factory hollow grind done right in my opinion.