Advice for a "mountain machete"

[Langadune]

An old friend from high school who now lives in Colorado recently contacted me about making him a custom knife. His description was a "survival machete" that can handle mountain terrain and tough enough to take down a small aspen... maybe a "mountain machete". That's a pretty wide open request with alot of variables. I'll have to talk him to get more detail about what he really wants, but I think what he's describing is probably something like a large camp knife or chopper. Machetes tend to be thinner and are therefore lighter. For what he's describing, I think he'll have to accept a heavier blade.

For carbon steel, I've primarily worked with 1095 but I've also dabbled a little in 80CRV2. I like .185" thickness but am wondering if I should go big and go .250". Maybe 12" blade? That will end up pretty beefy.

I guess I'm just spitballing here really until I can get more "wish list" info from him. Any input is always appreciated.

 

[PaulDiStefano]

If you do stock removal I would pick .185 stock with 11-12 inch blade so it's stil kind of thin but can chop trees. .250 stock removal would be a bigass knife and definitely nothing near a machete. If you forge then .250 is what I would go with because it'll have some nice weight for chopping but also with forged in taper it will be quick still.
That's my vote

 

[tltt]

"Mountain Machete" conjures up visions of bolo knives like the military 1909 -

.

3/16 or there about should be plenty. .250 is ok too, but as mentioned, use lots of tapering. These types of knives can become wrist breakers quickly.

 

[gunfixrjoe]

check out some of Hunter Martins machete experiments. Huntsman Knife Company. He's tried several designs in several steels. He may also have some input for you.

 

[Langadune]

If you do stock removal I would pick .185 stock with 11-12 inch blade so it's stil kind of thin but can chop trees.
That's my vote

"Mountain Machete" conjures up visions of bolo knives like the military 1909 -
3/16 or there about should be plenty.

Thanks guys... that's kinda what I was thinking. I'm still a stock removal guy, so 3/16 is probably the way to go. I primarily do full flat grinds, but I may try to expand my horizons on this one.
I think I'll show him those 1909 bolos and use that as a starting place.

check out some of Hunter Martins machete experiments. Huntsman Knife Company. He's tried several designs in several steels. He may also have some input for you.

Those are pretty serious looking!

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

M main comment is that most people who make a first machette make it too long and way too thick.

For a backpacking tool. I would use 3/16" steel and have the blade 10 to 12 inches. 80CrV woiuld be a good choice if forging the blade.

 

[Kevin McGovern]

I made a competition chopper to fool around with. I made it from .25" O1 @61RC. I did most of the grind full flat but when the edge was .06" or so, convexed it. I use it extensively in the outdoors. making kindling, cutting rope, cutting brush, etc. While O1 patinas if you look at it funny, I am pretty impressed with it's edge holding and resistance to chipping/ rolling. Here's a picture I took after making about 130 cuts through bamboo. The next day, I visited @Gossman Knives and he hosts bladesports events so he has all the stuff set up. I had not sharpened the edge, but made 2 clean cuts on a hanging 2" rope the first time I attempted it. then hacked through a 2x4. If I was making a camp knife, I would give it a point, to add some versatility. Video is my typical camp knife in AEB-L, 3/16" thick. I do a lot outdoor stuff, being a Boy Scout leader. Until recently, I was very much a "take a hatchet, saw and small knife" guy in opposition to one do all large knife. I have come to see the versatility of having a knife on your person that can do a lot of different things, if not as well as several tools, certainly better than the tool you don't have on you.

 

[rodriguez7]

I made a machete for this purpose recently. I used .170 stock 8670 with about a 12 inch blade. Clay coated spine for some peace of mind toughness. I’ll see if I can post some pics tonight or tomorrow. It was my first shot at freehand grinding something this big!!! So it’s kinda rough, and not to even! But it was designed with the intent on being a lightweight backpacking tool, for my summer river backpack trips! This steel is proving to be extremely durable, with insane shock resistance. I’m still trying to refine my heat treat!

 

[rodriguez7]

I made a competition chopper to fool around with. I made it from .25" O1 @61RC. I did most of the grind full flat but when the edge was .06" or so, convexed it. I use it extensively in the outdoors. making kindling, cutting rope, cutting brush, etc. While O1 patinas if you look at it funny, I am pretty impressed with it's edge holding and resistance to chipping/ rolling. Here's a picture I took after making about 130 cuts through bamboo. The next day, I visited @Gossman Knives and he hosts bladesports events so he has all the stuff set up. I had not sharpened the edge, but made 2 clean cuts on a hanging 2" rope the first time I attempted it. then hacked through a 2x4. If I was making a camp knife, I would give it a point, to add some versatility. Video is my typical camp knife in AEB-L, 3/16" thick. I do a lot outdoor stuff, being a Boy Scout leader. Until recently, I was very much a "take a hatchet, saw and small knife" guy in opposition to one do all large knife. I have come to see the versatility of having a knife on your person that can do a lot of different things, if not as well as several tools, certainly better than the tool you don't have on you.

View attachment 862615 View attachment 862616 View attachment 862617

These are my thoughts too, I was taking a few different tools into the backcountry, but I’m still trying to refine my ideal 1 tool! That’s why I got into making knives, I could never find exactly what I wanted!

 

[Kevin McGovern]

I usually take this only, since I can use it for small knife tasks if I NEED to. But everyone else has a small knife I can use anyway

 

[Langadune]

For a backpacking tool. I would use 3/16" steel and have the blade 10 to 12 inches. 80CrV woiuld be a good choice if forging the blade.

Thanks Stacy. That's what I'm leaning towards. Anything more seems like overkill right now.

I made a competition chopper to fool around with... I use it extensively in the outdoors. making kindling, cutting rope, cutting brush, etc.

I've actually thought of choppers... but honestly I'm not sure If I'm ready to go that big yet... Of course, there's a first time for everything. I like the idea though, and add a point for poking things.

I made a machete for this purpose recently. I used .170 stock 8670 with about a 12 inch blade. Clay coated spine for some peace of mind toughness. I’ll see if I can post some pics tonight or tomorrow. It was my first shot at freehand grinding something this big!!! So it’s kinda rough, and not to even! But it was designed with the intent on being a lightweight backpacking tool, for my summer river backpack trips! This steel is proving to be extremely durable, with insane shock resistance. I’m still trying to refine my heat treat!

I like the sound of that. I considered a differential heat treat for something like this but I'm not equipped yet to do my one heat treats. I primarily use Peters and I don't know if they'll do that. Although, I'm sure there are member here that would.

 

[rodriguez7]

Thanks Stacy. That's what I'm leaning towards. Anything more seems like overkill right now.



I've actually thought of choppers... but honestly I'm not sure If I'm ready to go that big yet... Of course, there's a first time for everything. I like the idea though, and add a point for poking things.



I like the sound of that. I considered a differential heat treat for something like this but I'm not equipped yet to do my one heat treats. I primarily use Peters and I don't know if they'll do that. Although, I'm sure there are member here that would.

With this steel, you can always heat treat it in a simple forge, and draw the spine back with a torch. It’s pretty simple. And peters would do that for you no problem.

 

[Kevin McGovern]

Thanks Stacy. That's what I'm leaning towards. Anything more seems like overkill right now.



I've actually thought of choppers... but honestly I'm not sure If I'm ready to go that big yet... Of course, there's a first time for everything. I like the idea though, and add a point for poking things.



I like the sound of that. I considered a differential heat treat for something like this but I'm not equipped yet to do my one heat treats. I primarily use Peters and I don't know if they'll do that. Although, I'm sure there are member here that would.

Honestly, up until I did my chopper, the largest blade I had done was 4". I think large, thick blades are easier to bevel, as you can more easily see and feel what you are doing when grinding the bevels.