Advice for making finger guards

[Greenberg Woods]

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone had any advice on making finger guards. I have seen to ways of doing it so far. Some people cut a ~1/4 inc thick piece of guard materiel and simply stack it in the hidden tang and shape it with the handle. i have also seen what seems to be people making the guards separately, finishing them, then adding them on. Anyone have any advice on how they make theres, or no of any good tutorials?

I already read Bruce Bump's amazing guide here
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/659442-A-couple-tips-on-hidden-tang-construction

 

[HSC ///]

you mean a brass or nickel finger guard like on a hunter?
here are rough overview notes I use, you can develop your own
I've only done a few and I don't think it's that simple

Brass Guard Notes

1) Cut metal blank

2) Cut middle slot , file to fit

3) Cut notch in knife blank, use abrasive saw or wheel

4) Check fit

5) Saw/trim finger guard

6) Use template to shape sides

7) Flatten, finish sand both sides parallel

8) Silver solder

9) Soap/water brush clean

10) Scrape off solder

 

[HSC ///]

And then do it a dozen more times so u can be proficient at it.

This was the first time I did it so it wasn't the most elegant

Of course if you have a mill then things are much easier for the slot

Others here have alot more experience and can add to this better than I can.
sorry for the giant pics...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Hengelo_77]

make a template first.
That's the way to keep it symetrical

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

The WIP shown covers the basic method.

It can also be done with a slotted guard on a hidden tanghandle. If doing a hidden tang, use a piece of the same metal as the guard for the bolster shown in the photos. You may even need two or three pieces to get sufficient material for a good curve. Also, make the tang only wide enough for strength, as you can easily grind into the tang pocket when shaping the finger curve into the guard. Obviously, keep the tang hole/pocket as snug as possible along the bottom area where the groove will be.

Many makers use a contrasting piece of thin metal between the bolster pieces for contrast. This makes the joint easier to make look clean.

 

[john april]

if you want a seamless fit ( running your fingernail over the jiont and not feeling any bumps) i think you need to shape the handle and guard at the same time.

 

[Ja Baudin]

At what temp does that silver solder melt? Would have to be low to not affect temper of blade, I'm assuming?

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I am sure it is the standard low temp "silver bearing solder". Most flows in the 400-450°F range. It does not affect temper.

 

[Craig Daniel]

On a hidden tang I get the guard pre shaped but not exact and finish it when all is put together.

 

[no.4shot]

Does anyone else drill and pin them anymore?

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[rustyrazor]

^^^ this!!! yes... drill and pin if you want to be able to adjust each piece individually and still have exact fit up.

OP: do yourself a favour and watch "Wheeler's steel, stuck in the metal" It's a WIP on here and you'll learn a lot from a master artisan with clear well documented pics. I would dare say everyone on here that has read that entire thread has learned at least something from it.

 

[timos-]

^^^ this!!! yes... drill and pin if you want to be able to adjust each piece individually and still have exact fit up.

OP: do yourself a favour and watch "Wheeler's steel, stuck in the metal" It's a WIP on here and you'll learn a lot from a master artisan with clear well documented pics. I would dare say everyone on here that has read that entire thread has learned at least something from it.

i second that! Epic Thread