Advice??? new knife maker needs help

sulsaMatt

sulsaMatt

Joined
Jan 29, 2007
Messages
199
Hey guys,
I train in martial arts and developed an all around combat survival knife. I used 1075 water quenched and got a nice hardness. up until today I've had a 100 % mortality rate from forge (propane). This is the first blade to not crack in the quenching process. My wife and I got into a bit of a financial bind and I listed the knife on ebay (custom handmade tactical survival combat knife are the keywords if anyone is interested in looking at the piece) I feel I have good designs, I just need advice on how to get this rolling as more than just a hobby. Are file knives a good alternative? what are the factors in making and selling knives for more than $20? I'm really counting on your knowledge here... any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
First off welcome. Next. How long have you been making knives. Knife making is a hard thing to make good money with. There is money to be made but it is not easy. Also testing is your number one friend. You need to know what your knives can and cant do. File knives can be great but thay are a pore choice for knives ment to be sold as you never realy know what your working with. Also choice of steel is importint to each style of knife. I love 5160 for a super strong blade that is on the larger side. Pricing is another mess in its self. He you want to make money you need to develop your name and get out there. But also make great knives at great prices. The more known you get the more demand for your knives you will see.good tools are also a big help. The faster you can make a knife the more you make on it. My belt grinder has pay for its self many times over. If you have to sell knives at a lower price at first thats fine because if there good people can tell and you up the price. But dont get greedy.
 
IMHO, if you are cracking 1075, you are probably overheating the edge prior to quench. What are you doing for a heat treat?? And quit using water for your quench medium. Water takes a bit of a learning curve to get right. You would probably have better luck using a fast oil quench. (ie: parks 50, mineral oil or even atf if you are in a bit of a financial bind) Like JTknives said in his post, 5160 is a great steel to start with. It is very forgiving and will allow you to get away with a few mistakes during heat treat.
 
Thanks for the advice guys, I've been trying to make knives for about 2 years now I do work a fair amount of metal tho as I very successfully make other martial arts weapons, throwing stars, grappling hooks, steel spiked rings, etc. just recently I developed a volcanic fire inside that said KNIVES!!! Currently I'm using a propane forge to heat treat and 98+- degree water to quench, my head has been filled with opinions on oil quench (motor oil) that I don't know what to do, which brings me here; you guys are the experts and I'm thirsty for knowledge! I recently got some sound advice on file knives based on brand which I will persue. I'd like to keep the variables to a minimum at this point, then branch out into choice barstock. With a good ferrier friend I have an infinite supply of free files to shape and beat the hell out of and really test my work. as far as this being lucrative, you won't meet many ppl more tenacious than me I CAN DO THIS. Please be on the lookout as I will post my pieces as theyre born, I endear all criticism please feel free! If I can impress ppl in forums I can impress ANYONE! lol. I really enjoy this community and the general vibe all of you put out you'll see me around for sure.
 
Well, there's your problem...

Forge for heat and water for quench. That seems to be overwhelmingly considered a recipe for cracks and breaks.

The problems are twofold with this kind of setup. Most folks (myself definitely included) tend to overheat when they try to HT with nothing more than a forge. Especially as a beginner. I am getting better at it, but I'm still quite sure that I'm heating at a higher temp than I really aught to.

Then, water, while very fast as a quench, is anything but even. Plunging steel that is glowing hot into water creates a boiling steam jacket that follows around on the steel, and where the steam is isn't being quenched effectively, but where the steel is actually in contact with liquid water, is being quenched very aggressively. This un-even ness in cooling created tremendous stress in the workpeice, which will tear itself apart under the load, thus, the cracks and such.

1075 is as user friendly as it gets, but you need better heat control, and a more even quenchant.

If you're serious about making knives on any soryt of scale, look into parks #50. Otherwise, search around, and you'll find no end of recipe's for improvised oil quenchants.
 
sulsamatt, 1075 is all i have used for my knives since starting out in the early 90's. you cant quench it in water, it gets way too brittle. i use either canola oil or a mix if motor oil and transmission fluid. if you have access to a cutting torch that would heat treat the edge a lot better. thats how i do my knives too.
i rely on color to tell me when to quench and i get my knives around 63-65rc. it took me a lot of experimentation to get the color down right. you cant do it in the daylight since overheating the steel is easier to do. if a torch is used the oxygen must be turned down so the flame is soft but hot enough to heat the steel to an orange color.
a 5"-6" blade takes me 7-8 minutes if not longer to reach temp. you dont want any sparks coming off the steel which is a sign its getting too hot. the flame must be kept in a smooth even motion the whole time and not allowed to rest in one spot or get too close. a file will slide and not cut in if the blade is hard enough. feel free to email me if you want to learn more.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top