Advice on a old Busse

lpr3

lpr3

Joined
Nov 30, 2005
Messages
106
I bought this back in 97 or 98 when I was in the military. the protective coating had starting chipping off, and I help finish most of it off years ago. I am currently trying to verify if this is A2 steel or INFI ( emailed Garth who said he wanted to forward it to Jerry ). But I would really like to refurbish this knife and don't know where to start. Would someone please give me some advice or point me in the right direction? I may just sit tight and wait for the Busse Custom Shop to open back up , but wanted to ask around here first.

Thanks



20160322_091540_zpsixuopz5o.jpg
 
What's my guess is that it is A2 since it doesn't appear to have the INFI dimples. If you want it refurbished, I would definitely wait and have it done at the Busse custom shop. Maybe the boss will make an exception for you since you're looking to have something refurbished rather than something built from scratch.
 
I remember reading about INFI in the March 1998 issue of American Survival Guide. At that time, the Battle Mistress was the only knife advertised as being made of INFI, if that's any help. But I ordered a Battle Mistress, Steel Heart II, and Badger Attack somewhere around that time, and alhtough they weren't advertised as INFI, by the time I got mine, that's all they were making. They also had an article that talked about the Steel Heart II in the July 1996 issue, and said at that time it was made of A-2. Of course, that's not much help on what yours is, other than to show that 97-98 would have been right on the cusp.

I wonder those smooth bolts would mean somethign to someone who knows more than I about this stuff. Mine all had slotted bolts, although there were smooth-bolt INFI Battle Mistresses, which I think were the earliest models.
 
on_the_edge said:
What's my guess is that it is A2 since it doesn't appear to have the INFI dimples. If you want it refurbished, I would definitely wait and have it done at the Busse custom shop. Maybe the boss will make an exception for you since you're looking to have something refurbished rather than something built from scratch.
Click to expand...

Agree 100%!
 
You could also polish up the blade and give it either a satin finish or near mirror finish if that's what you prefer. The. You can reprofile the edge and make it beautiful too. The handle looks great --- so I'd say just do that if you're not willing to wait to send it in to the custom shop. It might therapeutic for you to restore this yourself -- you might fall in love with the knife even more.
 
I appreciate all the help and advice. The blade is .30 thick. Not sure if that helps with the mystery.
 
One thing to consider if you wait and send it back to Busse is that they most likely won't be able to replace the solid bolts because I'm fairly certain they don't work with Corby bolts any more. And in order to add tubes, the holes in the tang would need to be drilled larger because the old Busse didn't have 1/4" holes which they may do.
 
It looks like it served you well. Thanks for your service, this Jarhead appreciates it.
 
Gun blue. If it sticks, it's tool steel. If it doesn't, it's INFI.

Either way, I wouldn't touch it other than to use the heck out of it.
 
tinfoil hat timmy said:
Gun blue. If it sticks, it's tool steel. If it doesn't, it's INFI.
Click to expand...
...... I don't think Gun Blue is conclusive mate, there have been some INFI Busses shown here that have actually taken blue. The water drop test is probably better, but I also think Jerry will have the final say (my money is on A2).
 
Update: I left water on the knife for an hour and nothing happened. So I decided to leave water on it for the rest of the night. When i woke up this morning i noticed a small rust puddle. I wiped the water off and noticed a small oxidized pit where the rust puddle came from. The knife had been soaking for approximately 11 hours. you can see the small pit about an inch up from the base toward the spine of the knife. I am not sure if that was there before or not, but it is definitely there now. I am guessing this means A2? There were no other rust spots or any other marks left.

14588241870651577937476_zpsmucp3mip.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 
I would bet that it is A2. If you got it in late 97-early 98, the only thing coming out of the shop at that time was the first SHBM's. Then the SHSHII's.
 
I understand the fact that you want to make it all new and shiny again, like a rebirth of sorts. But in my opinion that blade has history on it. I would leave just the way it is, it has developed a personality and I would not want to erase that. Army guy here myself. Thank you for your service. Being they won't do it and will help and thank you for all the whiney, tree hugging, protesting hippies appreciate you ensuring their ability to complain, whine and moan and how "bad" they have it.
 
Ladams19 said:
I understand the fact that you want to make it all new and shiny again, like a rebirth of sorts. But in my opinion that blade has history on it. I would leave just the way it is, it has developed a personality and I would not want to erase that. Army guy here myself. Thank you for your service. Being they won't do it and will help and thank you for all the whiney, tree hugging, protesting hippies appreciate you ensuring their ability to complain, whine and moan and how "bad" they have it.
Click to expand...

Thank you for your service! I may just sharpen it and let it roll.
 
a little sanding at the base of the blade, and a new edge.. I think it might be good to go.

 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top