Advice on buffing makers mark?

KTNicholson

KTNicholson

Joined
May 14, 2013
Messages
22
Hey guys, just curious of some different ways to go about buffing the makers mark? I'm doing an electro chemical etch, usually on 1095 or O1. As most of you know, after you etch you get some haziness that needs to be buffed out. The problem I'm having is it usually wipes out the mark (black part) and leaves a light colored etch. I etch about 20 times in 3 second intervals and mark 5 times for about 5 seconds each. Afterwards I buff with white rouge and try to use pretty light pressure. But sometimes it just wipes it right out. Any pointers?
 
Sounds like too much buffing. Only takes a couple swipes.
Don't know if you have seen this vid, but Mike probably has the best mark in the business.
[video=youtube;7oL72GzC7YA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7oL72GzC7YA[/video]
 
I do like 8-10 etches for 10-20 seconds per etch. Then switch to the "mark" setting to get it black. I typically do 5 or so marking "burns" for no more than 5 seconds each time. I do hand rubbed finishes, so I find that sandpaper finer than the last grit that you used works like a charm. if you have a buffed finish, then you will have to do like Mike says and risk life and limb once again.;)
 
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Yea I haven't perfected the hand rub finish yet so for now I'll just buff it. But I did just make some sanding blocks so I'll get cracking on my sanding skills. Thanks for the info!
 
Felt sticks or cloth glued to wooden sticks. Apply compound, and buff the area manually. This should not wash out the center of the etch.
Like flat sanding with a block.
 
I just did my first etch and I didn't get enough black in it but it also didn't have any ghosting. I credit that to a posting from Brian Fellhoelter who sprays the blade with windex prior to applying the stencil.
 
I don't usually have a buffed finish on my knives, but when I do mirror something I change my etching method. Normally I etch 3 seconds on, 2 off, 20 times on DC, then 15 of the same on AC. With a mirror blade I have actually found Fellhoelter's method to work very well. I apply it to a finish polished blade, then the lightest pass on the buffer makes the etch area clean again. Look for that vid he posted.

That method gets a pretty shallow but black etch. On hand sanded blades I like a good deep etch.
 
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