Advice on chamfering holes?

S

Shannon Carter

Joined
Mar 26, 2012
Messages
473
Well, got to the point where I was drilling holes in the tang of my first set of knives last night and decided to try chamfering the holes. I tried a chamfering bit, but the steel I'm using is 1095 and it ate the bit for supper. I also tried using larger drill bits and while that kind of worked, the holes were not round at all. Just curious if there was a recommended bit out there or a better technique?

As always, thanks ahead of time!
--Shannon
 
Assuming the steel is annealed, you can just use a good sharp pocketknife or shop-knife to knock off the very corners. You can also "chuck" a counter-sink into a tap handle or similar and do it by hand instead of using the drill press (I'm told that far less speed and pressure = less likelihood of chewing up the bit). I don't think the chamfer needs to be very pronounced, just enough to remove any burr and help prevent a stress-riser.
 
I use a carbide chamfer bit, it works perfect
 
james terrio said:
Assuming the steel is annealed, you can just use a good sharp pocketknife or shop-knife to knock off the very corners. You can also "chuck" a counter-sink into a tap handle or similar and do it by hand instead of using the drill press (I'm told that far less speed and pressure = less likelihood of chewing up the bit). I don't think the chamfer needs to be very pronounced, just enough to remove any burr and help prevent a stress-riser.
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Thanks, sounds like I was going about it the hard way. I appreciate it.
 
Don't worry about the uneven edges left by a larger bit, the holes don't show anyway :)

A carbide ball burr or round nose milling bit works very well, too.
 
bladsmth said:
Don't worry about the uneven edges left by a larger bit, the holes don't show anyway :)

A carbide ball burr or round nose milling bit works very well, too.
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Thanks, I'll check those out. This pic is from last night, I just went with a bit that was 1/16" larger than the holes I was drilling... seemed to work out okay.

2012-06-06_22-13-41_817.jpg
 
Looking good!

I use cheap Ryobi chamfer bits from Home Depot, they work great and are under $10.

When I was starting out in knifemaking I ran through bits like crazy, now I don't even remember when I bought some last. Slow speed is key and practice is the most important thing in extending bit life.

Drilling sounds like mindless activity but there is a bit to it! :D
 
Daniel Fairly Knives said:
Drilling sounds like mindless activity but there is a bit to it! :D
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LOL, you are quite the punster this morning, Danny old boy!! :D

Like Daniel, I use the Ryobi bits from Home Depot for most stuff. I have a couple of pricey cobalt single flute bits though that I like to use on stuff that will show, like handle tubes or exposed holes, just because the cobalt cuts really clean and smooth.

When countersinking holes, I use a 1-2-3 block on top of my drill press table so that I have the blade laying on something perfectly flat while leaving enough space for me to get a frim grip on the blade. Take the time to make sure the blade is laying nice and flat and you have a better chance of getting good smooth contact without chatter when the bit hits the steel.
 
Daniel Fairly Knives said:
Looking good!

I use cheap Ryobi chamfer bits from Home Depot, they work great and are under $10.

When I was starting out in knifemaking I ran through bits like crazy, now I don't even remember when I bought some last. Slow speed is key and practice is the most important thing in extending bit life.

Drilling sounds like mindless activity but there is a bit to it! :D
Click to expand...

Too funny! I smoked a 1/2" bit the other night, you're right about taking it slow. By the way, I've enjoyed and learned much from watching your Youtube videos... good stuff!
 
jonnymac44 said:
LOL, you are quite the punster this morning, Danny old boy!! :D

Like Daniel, I use the Ryobi bits from Home Depot for most stuff. I have a couple of pricey cobalt single flute bits though that I like to use on stuff that will show, like handle tubes or exposed holes, just because the cobalt cuts really clean and smooth.

When countersinking holes, I use a 1-2-3 block on top of my drill press table so that I have the blade laying on something perfectly flat while leaving enough space for me to get a frim grip on the blade. Take the time to make sure the blade is laying nice and flat and you have a better chance of getting good smooth contact without chatter when the bit hits the steel.
Click to expand...

Okay, I've seen the 1-2-3 blocks online and that makes sense. I was drilling these out over a piece of 2"x4". Thanks.
 
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