Advice on dealing uneven bevel on my new Husqvarna multipurpose forest axe

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Pentavarate

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Dec 20, 2016
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My lovely wife gave me a new 26" Husqvarna multipurpose forest axe for an early Christmas present. Overall, the axe looks very nice. The one issue however is that the bevel is uneven. By that I mean, on one face of the head, the bevel is consistent and of uniform width but on the other face, the bevel starts out thicker at the toe and then runs even wider toward the heel (she's got it wrapped at home at the moment but I'll try to get some pics if this isn't clear).

I know these axes are supposedly Hults Bruk factory seconds and are expected to have some cosmetic issues. I'm fine with something cosmetic (this will be put to regular use and I don't need it to look all that pretty). But, I have no idea how big of a deal the inconsistent bevel is. Can it be fixed? Is it even worth fixing? In fixing it, would I be reducing the useful life of the axe? I could just return it for a new one, but that would just be rolling the dice again without any really idea if I even have a problem on my hands.

Please forgive me if this is a really stupid question but I'm a relative neophyte when it comes to axes and have only owned hardware store brand choppers and mauls and a Fiskars hatchet.

TIA,
Jason
 
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You could return the axe if you're unsatisfied with it, but an uneven bevel can be a fairly easy fix with a file and some patience if you so wish.
 
Post a picture when you have a chance. It sounds like it could easily be corrected with a file.
 
DarthTaco123 said:
You could return the axe if you're unsatisfied with it, but an uneven bevel can be a fairly easy fix with a file and some patience if you so wish.
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Thanks DarthTaco. How would I fix that? Would I basically grind the edge down a bit with a file and cut a new bevel to match the lowest part of the "too wide" part?
 
Clamp it to the bench, and use a good, quality file to even it out by filing the high sides down. It should only take a few minutes and some elbow grease. Use the An Ax to Grind gauge to assist if needed. The PDF version of the manual contains a to-scale bit gauge to get a nice chopping profile. Or just eyeball it! It's an axe after all. Once filed, hone the filed areas with a stone to smooth it out and get choppin!
 
remember that the grind is not supposed to be completely even.
Have a look at an axe bit angle gauge and you will see that the sides are purposely not even..that makes the axe tend not to stick into wood as much.
example here from an ax to grind & also another random image

fig068.jpg


fig126.gif


EDIT; didnt read your post properly re it differing from top to bottom on the same side before posting. Ill leave the above here anyway
 
If it's new and unused you might want to inspect some other ones at the dealer so as to be able to make a swap. Otherwise, with some patience and good file you can carefully (and gradually) shape one side of the blade to match the other.
 
Thanks very much for the advice and replies. When I went back and looked at the bevel last night I can see that I had it a little backwards. But you can see the difference in these pics. Also, unrelated to the bevel, I noticed that there is some sort of epoxy on the back of the head, filling in what looks like a gouge. Is that something to worry about (first pic below).

D2QYSGL.jpg


TXQcFXM.jpg


l8ossf5.jpg


Thanks again!
 
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I'd love to get into a brick and mortar and pick one out but I have no idea where to find one that sells these. The Husky site points me to some local shops that sell power equipment.
 
The bit looks like it can easily be fixed with a proper file, the gouge in the poll could be filled with weld if you were ever so inclined but even as is it wouldn't' bother me.
 
Let's see a view from the end or the front, namely an edge profile. What we're looking at so far is a side view of brutish belt sander smoothing. Unless it really bugs you the dimple in the poll is going to stay; you're not supposed to use that end of the tool as a hammer anyway.
 
Square_peg said:
The gouge in the poll bothers me. The bit is easy to file.
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I'm not sure that poll would cause me much concern do to it not being a striking surface anyway. The grind is easily addresed with a file if it bothers you it didn't look terribly out of whack from the photo angles you posted imo. I'm not sure the husky's are seconds they maybe but at the price point they are selling them at I'm sure they are spending a bare minimum of time on fit and finish.
 
Kansaswoodguy said:
I'm not sure that poll would cause me much concern do to it not being a striking surface anyway.
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Of course it's a striking surface. Most felling wedges are now plastic but there are also aluminum wedges available. Wooden glutes may be struck in bushcraft work. Plus there are wooden pegs and stakes to drive. All sorts of uses for the soft poll of an axe.
 
Square_peg said:
Of course it's a striking surface. Most felling wedges are now plastic but there are also aluminum wedges available. Wooden glutes may be struck in bushcraft work. Plus there are wooden pegs and stakes to drive. All sorts of uses for the soft poll of an axe.
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Hobbyists, hipsters and bushcrafters know nothing about this stuff (namely soft polls of axes), and will never have the need. Whacking down a Christmas tree, splitting up a few limbs or pounding in some tent pegs is not the same as spying up a 75 foot storm-stricken Maple that is leaning over your house. I'd trust that particular 'dimpled' poll axe to be able to set felling wedges, even though some one of us had wished the head weight of the 'driver' was more substantial.
 
The point is not if said axe is functional. The point is it is sub par craftsmanship. Axes at the local hardware store do not look this bad and cost $25.
 
Beachlogger said:
I'd return it, as expensive as these are your paying for premium, you should get premium
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I wouldn't consider these Husqvarna axes expensive or premium! They are a mid priced tool that could use some work to make good. They are not refined. I don't expect a $60-$75 axe to be perfect.
 
Mr. Tettnanger said:
I wouldn't consider these Husqvarna axes expensive or premium! They are a mid priced tool that could use some work to make good. They are not refined. I don't expect a $60-$75 axe to be perfect.
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The post above yours explains it well, and you shouldn't have to fix a new tool to make it work like it's supposed to
 
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