Recommendation? Advice on Forges

Figured I'd post some pictures to spark some ideas.



I used an air tank to build mine and I think it's a great size. Better than the propane tank in my opinion. Diameter is around 10''. I used 2'' of wool (word to the wise = buy the 1'' wool and do two layers instead of the 2'' wool. It will curve around the inside of your tank easier)



You want swirl... Blue line flame trajectory is better:



I like the forced air burners, but if you're looking to get started on the cheap you can build a venturi burner for under $30. I've run both in this forge successfully. Solenoid for power outages. Small choke for fine tuning.



Like many have suggested, getting a plug and play Atlas forge may be the better and more cost efficient option. Building your own can get pricy pretty fast. This is around what I spent on it:



This is the 3 foot stand I built for carting it around:

 
J. Keeton said:
Figured I'd post some pictures to spark some ideas.



I used an air tank to build mine and I think it's a great size. Better than the propane tank in my opinion. Diameter is around 10''. I used 2'' of wool (word to the wise = buy the 1'' wool and do two layers instead of the 2'' wool. It will curve around the inside of your tank easier)



You want swirl... Blue line flame trajectory is better:



I like the forced air burners, but if you're looking to get started on the cheap you can build a venturi burner for under $30. I've run both in this forge successfully. Solenoid for power outages. Small choke for fine tuning.



Like many have suggested, getting a plug and play Atlas forge may be the better and more cost efficient option. Building your own can get pricy pretty fast. This is around what I spent on it:



This is the 3 foot stand I built for carting it around:

Click to expand...
So does your forge have the blue line trajectory swirl? I’m not seeing that?
 
HSC /// said:
So does your forge have the blue line trajectory swirl? I’m not seeing that?
Click to expand...
After that picture was taken, I later moved the location of the port slightly and used a smaller diameter pipe in that port to achieve "more of the blue line". It's not perfect though.
 
Here's a very short video I made during the construction of my forge showing the swirling action.

 
So can someone explain to me the point of the swirling action snd the burner at some angle...? I’m not trying to be difficult but I’d like somebody to help me understand what’s happening.... because what difference does it make if the chamber inside has some 6 inch ID with lining and it’s all very hot.

a coke or charcoal forge is all heat without any swirling

I get the concept of a hot spot with a pointed burner but what does the swirling do for you?
 
The swirling action allows the forge to heat more evenly thru the inside. I can put a 12" billet inside the forge and it will heat to an even orange color from end to end. With the burner in a single spot you have to keep moving the billet back 'n forth to heat from end to end.
 
Ken H> said:
The swirling action allows the forge to heat more evenly thru the inside. I can put a 12" billet inside the forge and it will heat to an even orange color from end to end. With the burner in a single spot you have to keep moving the billet back 'n forth to heat from end to end.
Click to expand...
Ok. So how do you know what angle to put the burner? And how do you get the heat to travel evenly across 12”

i don’t see how the heat of the flame can be the same 8-12” away as it as hot from the tip.

looking at your video I’m seeing the same ring of heat localized in one spot.

I’m all for this concept so pardon my skepticism... except for atlas forge, why hasn’t any other forge manufacturer used this design?
 
A properly placed burner is at the tangent to the forge chamber ( the blue line). It will direct the flame along the chamber wall. It should be angled about 20-30° toward the opposite end as well to make the flame move throughout the chamber. This method makes the flame heat the refractory and once the forge has soaked for a while ( usually 5-10 minutes) the entire chamber will be at a pretty even temperature.

While people used to place the burner toward the back of the forge and point it forward, a more practical method is to place the burner toward the front and angle it toward the back. That makes the dragons breath come out the back and not in your face.
 
Thanks for the information. I know we have an old air tank in our shop and I might put it to use one day and make a good forge out of it.
 
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