advice on forging 416 stainless

NickWheeler

NickWheeler

Joined
Dec 3, 1999
Messages
9,437
Hey folks-


I just bought some more 416 ss flat bar and holy... OUCH! :grumpy: :eek:

I tried forging some 416 somewhere around 12 years ago when I had even less of an idea what I was doing than I do now... and I put a bunch of cracks in it.

Just looked on ebay and the roundstock prices are stupid cheap in comparison... You can get a 3/4"X 48" round for about the same $$$ as what a couple 3/8"X3/4"X12" chunks of flat cost!!!

So I know some of you fellas around here forge it... mind sharing any advice? Preferred forging temp and any follow up thermal cycles?

Thank you guys :)
 
I've tried forging the 416 as well. With the time I wasted I found it its much cheaper to buy it in bulk (12' lengths) from steel distributors. The folks I bought it from last were in Sacramento, I'll bet you've got someone around Portland or Seattle that could hook you up.
 
I think Mr. Foster is the guy you want to talk to.
 
Mike Quesenberry said:
I've tried forging the 416 as well. With the time I wasted I found it its much cheaper to buy it in bulk (12' lengths) from steel distributors. The folks I bought it from last were in Sacramento, I'll bet you've got someone around Portland or Seattle that could hook you up.
Click to expand...

Hey Mike, where is it that you got that 416 out of Sacramento? I too have looked at flat 416 and been turned off by the price. I tried to forge some and also cracked the heck out of it. If you have a local supplier, at least I might be able to save shipping. Thanks.

-Mike
 
Nick
1.Get hot
2.Forge to shape
3.I think between 1600 and 1800 no cracks
4.?
5.Re-step 1. and 2.
 
No experience, but the specs I have run it pretty hot

uniform heat to 2100-2250 F

Hot work below 1700 F cracking.
 
I have forged it and did it rather hot 2000+. Have not done enough of it to really answer the question though. Last time I bought some 1/4 flat bar the initial cost was not too bad but by the time it got here it had more than doubled. They added a $50 handling fee and $25 cut charge. Then with shipping on top it was waaay expensive. I have looked all over the place for it and not found any at a reasonable price. I did the same thing and found some on ebay. got some 1 1/8 round and some 1" round for less than 1/2 the cost of the flat bar I bought. More than 2x the material too. Another one to input might be Karl Anderson, he uses the round and forges it.
 
The 2100-2250 F , and never below 1700 F is correct. And then will you harden or anneal ? Some hardening might be easier to machine.
 
Thanks guys :)

Chuck, did that happen to be from Fry Steel????? I emailed them for a quote and asked what the total with shipping to my address would be, and the reply was "We do not quote freight."

Um... well.... since that could have a huge factor in the price, which makes a huge difference in my decision, isn't that sort of important information??? :rolleyes: :grumpy: I did ask them that too.

I really don't like the idea of the post forging clean-up and thermal cycles as compared to just sawing a chunk off a flat bar and going to town. Plus I don't have the experience forging it to know if that savings in initial price will just get eaten by the time it takes to go from round stock to workable flat bar. :confused: I know, I know... the only way to find that out is to try it. ;) :)

Thanks guys! :)
 
Nick the piece I forged worked really easy esp with a power hammer. It also milled like a dream, not like 304. Even if forging costs me 2x the cost i paid it will still be less than half what I paid from Fry. When I finally use up all the remaining Fry material I will be doing a lot more forging the 416. I did not HT it though and that might make it even better to work. But like I said it milled really nice and since it is magnetic it can be surface ground easily.
 
A little hotter, Jason.
I buy 1 1/8" 416 round wherever I can get it - it's just plain cheap when compared to other flat stock.
I much prefer using 303 - NOT! 304 guys, so don't get you panties in a wad - as 303 is the machine grade of the austenitic stainless, and is the most stain resistant of the steels we use for fittings. It's just plain better than 416. And being austenitic at all temps, you don't have to deal with it becoming magnetic while being milled and turned. It's the best. I think most guys like the 416 simply because it starts with a '4' instead of a '3'. :D
Anyway, 416 in round bar is 1/4 the price of 303 in bar stock.
So, I've been using 416 off and on for sometime.
Nick, just forge it hot - HOT! - and press it to your given dimension in your press. It's really tough, and that's why it cracks at the lower temps. I forge it almost at welding heat.
It will air harden like a big dog.
I'll do one or two reducing heat thermal cycles just 'cause.
Then, do a sub-critical anneal soak at around 1250 for an hour or so and let it cool in the oven overnight after you shut it off.
A three foot round will last you a looooooooooooooong time and save lots of $$.
 
Cool! Thank you guys!!!

Karl, I really appreciate your post forging routine. Based on the make-up of 416 that sounds like a really good plan.

I'm not ready to side with you on 303 though... 416 sticks to my surface grinder! ;) :D Completely agree the added sulphur in 303 makes working with it worlds apart from 304, which sucks ballz to machine (at least in my experience).

Thanks guys!!! :)

BTW- Fry steel got back to me with a quote. $30 to cut the 12' bar in half so that UPS will ship it, and it's $160 for a 3/8" X 1" X 12' bar, PLUS the UPS shipping which they will not quote because "It's just Mr. Fry's policy" (that's really what they told me :rolleyes:) So it's cheaper to buy 12" pieces from the knife supply outfits!!! :eek: :rolleyes:

Definitely going to try squishing some round stock! :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top