Advice on rust inhibitors

Wriggs said:
I have heard of the TUF-cloths but can't find a local dealer so far in Ontario.

Those who use the mineral oil, what kind of cloth do you use so that you don't end up with fibres on your blade?

Thanks again for the advice guys. Much appreciated.
Click to expand...

I got my TUF cloth off e-bay.
 
You could always force a patina on your new toy too. I did this to my Izula 2 nights ago. I stabbed it completely into a potato and let it sit for almost 15 hours. After cleaning everything up, the steel is now darker. It should help protect the bare steel (bevels, and engravings).
Click to expand...

Not to hijack the thread, but do you have any pix. of your Izula after the potato patina?
 
After personally testing many of the top rust preventers, EEZOX blows away Tuff Cloth/Glide, Miltec, WD-40 the (WD stands for water displacing BTW) Mineral oil, several Penetrating lubes (commercial grade) etc

So EEZOX is the best if your not eating with your knives much, or at all.
 
What was the test objectives?

Can you explain the test methods, standards, etc (ex. MIL-STD-810F Method 509.4)
Was there a salt spray test? (ASTM B 117-07a)
etc, etc...

just trying to find out how it was determined as best.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
waynejitsu said:
What was the test objectives?

Can you explain the test methods, standards, etc (ex. MIL-STD-810F Method 509.4)
Was there a salt spray test? (ASTM B 117-07a)
etc, etc...

just trying to find out how it was determined as best.

Thanks
Click to expand...

What I did was I took several 1"x1" square peices of mild steel that had been cleaned with a angle grinder to remove all rust and debris.

Then I wiped them down with acetone to get all of my oil off of the squares. I then placed them each on their own sheet of aluminum foil.

I then boiled a concentrated salt water mixture.

Each peice of steel was completely dipped into the rust preventative, then placed on their sheet of foil and received the same amount of salt water solution.

They were left to soak, and I noticed that the EEZOX went days without rusting while all the others rusted within hours. Sorry I don't remember how long the other ones lasted, or in what order, but I did post this several years ago on one of the knife forums.

Hope this helps. BTW I never tested Ren Wax, so it could be better, I don't know.
 
if you want to clean your blade really quick from sap and other hard stuff to get off, use delimenine (sp?) degreaser
 
http://www.knifezone.ca/misc/tuf-cloth.htm

OP, it's not in Ontario but it is Canadian, so no Customs crap to worry about. I get my Sentry Solutions stuff from here. Shipping is almost as much as product, but treat yourself to some other goodies and that's that.

I have also found some lube cloths (silicone, I think) in various gun shops in Ontario.

Or you can make your own with a small lens cloth soaked in your lube of choice and kept in a little heavy duty ziploc bag.
 
swamp said:
What I did was I took several 1"x1" square peices of mild steel that had been cleaned with a angle grinder to remove all rust and debris.

Then I wiped them down with acetone to get all of my oil off of the squares. I then placed them each on their own sheet of aluminum foil.

I then boiled a concentrated salt water mixture.

Each peice of steel was completely dipped into the rust preventative, then placed on their sheet of foil and received the same amount of salt water solution.

They were left to soak, and I noticed that the EEZOX went days without rusting while all the others rusted within hours.
Click to expand...

Cool test:)
Have you tried a similar test using the same type amount of product you would actually use? For example, instead of dipping into product, just apply as you would to a gun or knife (a thin film, wait, then wipe off)

Also, instead of "soaking", just leave the test panels outside, in the elements. Soaking would be a good test for under water items, however, results are different when the items are in the air (just a note:)

Your test would be a little (or a lot) different then my test of the same, just based on the surrounding atmosphere, however, you would get a more realistic example of what each product would do in a "real world" example of performance.

I used to do some testing for BAE Systems years ago. Sure, I would send truff off for "real" testing, such as the salt spray test (Sherwin-Williams did this for us), they were set up to meet mil-spec testing), however, I also did a lot of my own testing..., it has been a while now, LOL!!

Have you ever tried "CP90"?
That is something you may want to test, just for curiosity sake:)
I am no longer working, so, no longer testing professionally.

I would like to try the EEZOX and compare it to CP90.
I could send you a sample of CP90 if you would like to try it out if you could also send a sample of EEZOX.

We could each test them and post the results.
(no, I have no idea which would "win", I never used EEZOX, but would sure like to try it:)

Thanks for taking the time to test and post. A lot of people do not realize how much work goes into it, to do it correctly..
 
waynejitsu said:
Cool test:)
Have you tried a similar test using the same type amount of product you would actually use? For example, instead of dipping into product, just apply as you would to a gun or knife (a thin film, wait, then wipe off)

Also, instead of "soaking", just leave the test panels outside, in the elements. Soaking would be a good test for under water items, however, results are different when the items are in the air (just a note:)

Your test would be a little (or a lot) different then my test of the same, just based on the surrounding atmosphere, however, you would get a more realistic example of what each product would do in a "real world" example of performance.

I used to do some testing for BAE Systems years ago. Sure, I would send truff off for "real" testing, such as the salt spray test (Sherwin-Williams did this for us), they were set up to meet mil-spec testing), however, I also did a lot of my own testing..., it has been a while now, LOL!!

Have you ever tried "CP90"?
That is something you may want to test, just for curiosity sake:)
I am no longer working, so, no longer testing professionally.

I would like to try the EEZOX and compare it to CP90.
I could send you a sample of CP90 if you would like to try it out if you could also send a sample of EEZOX.

We could each test them and post the results.
(no, I have no idea which would "win", I never used EEZOX, but would sure like to try it:)

Thanks for taking the time to test and post. A lot of people do not realize how much work goes into it, to do it correctly..
Click to expand...

It's funny you asked about the outside testing and wiping off the excess, because I actually did that and put it out on the porch. (covered from the rain, but not the humidity etc.) I did two tests for each product at the same time. I do remember now that one was rem-oil and another was break free CLP.

Sure P.M. me you adress and I'll send you mine. I would love to try CP90, I never heard of it. I have been crazy busy at work lately (leave at 5:00 A.M. get home at 7:00 P.M.) if I'm lucky, but I will get the EEZOX out to you somehow!
 
Last edited:
I have found Meguires cleaner/wax very handy with use on many different things (figure you could use any car wax). I use it to clean/polish/wax lots of things. I can't say specifically with esee knives (just ordered my first 2 izzys), but I have used it on my cold steel carbon and many other knives to good effect. If you worry about the wax on your knife I would stick with mineral oil which I also use - it just doesn't seem to stay with the knife like the wax does. YMMV
 
Has anyone ever actually had their ESEE knife rust?

I've had my original RC-3 for a few years now, long before I found this forum, and I have yet to have any rust on it. I don't treat it with anything. I just wipe it off, make sure it's dry, and put it away.

I suppose if you live in a very humid environment it may rust, but I believe the best way to keep a knife from rusting is to use it.
 
Sounds weird, but I dab a little Burt's Beeswax onto my finger and carefully apply to areas that I want protected. I heard a lot of people praising beeswax for protecting carbon steel blades and Burt's is primarily beeswax so I figured what the hell. I haven't had any issues thus far.
 
Mineral oil. You can get it at any drug store and it works great, you just supply the cloth.

Vin
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top