Advice? Two new EDC build designs

[ohaple]

So I am getting closer to finishing my first knife. I decided it was easy enough to make sawzall knives that I would make a couple as gifts for people who aren't very demanding on knives (boxes and letters only). After this project I plan to make one of a known steel type.
These are the two designs I came up with, and I could use some advice on the particulars. The top one is going to have a wrapped handle, maybe with orange rubber tool grip underneath. The bottom I was planning to make walnut scales.

Any glaring errors? Any advice on shaping the handle to receive a wrap? Thanks guys!

 

[lonepine]

It looks to me like the where the cutting edge curves up to the point could be improved, I.E. a continuous curve rather than a curve that turns into another straight line. I would also begin the dropped point farther back, like near the handle, increasing the rate of the slope until it reaches the point.

Have fun.

- Lonepine AKA Paul Meske

 

[ohaple]

It looks to me like the where the cutting edge curves up to the point could be improved, I.E. a continuous curve rather than a curve that turns into another straight line. I would also begin the dropped point farther back, like near the handle, increasing the rate of the slope until it reaches the point.

Have fun.

- Lonepine AKA Paul Meske

I will sketch it up. thanks for the advice

 

[kazariah]

Head down to Michaels, or maybe even Walmart, and pick yourself up a set of french curves. They aren't very expensive, and you can always find a use for them.
From an art stand point, they will help you "finish" your sketches. Make your overall designs flow, look, and feel better.

I like the second design, has a good start to it. Looks more like a finished knife, less like a prison shank.
Take the curves to the design you have now, to make the current lines flow better into one another.
As for blade aesthetics I'm still a noob, but my first thought seeing the second blade is that the blade contours appear to be upside down.

Zack

 

[JG Custom Metal Works]

Head down to Michaels, or maybe even Walmart, and pick yourself up a set of french curves. They aren't very expensive, and you can always find a use for them.
From an art stand point, they will help you "finish" your sketches. Make your overall designs flow, look, and feel better.

Zack

I just got a 3-piece set from Office Depot for under $10 FWIW.

The top knife doesn't need the 90 degree ledge between the handle and blade if you're just gonna wrap the handle. Make the spine flush. If you were going to be doing a hidden tang it'd be different.

The blade profile on the bottom one needs help.

It's not bad to use already existing shapes in your design. Do a google search for "EDC knives" and figure out what shape you want. You don't have to copy exactly but you could. People have been copying Loveless for years and a lot of them look great. I think a lot of newer guys think they need to come up with something extremely different and innovative to set themselves apart. While I appreciate this sentiment, more times than not, the knives end up looking like Klingon knives. IMO it's best to start with good, traditional designs(skinner, hunter, fighter, etc...), and work on the actual creation of the knife. That way you don't end up with a knife that's going to need design flaws fixed while trying to make the knife.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

The top blade is too "stiff". It needs some slight curve to the spine, or a little drop at the tip.
The second is better. Both need the edge curve refined a bit.
How do you plan on drilling the holes in the sawzxall blades?

You would do better when drawing to use actual scale instead of referred scale. That means, mark the OAL and the blade/handle measurements on the drawing, not just place a quarter there.

Knives like the ones you are making are usually called "neckers", as they are often carried in a small sheath that is suspended from the neck. They may be carried in a pocket in some cases, but make sure the sheath is such that cut through is resisted or you can end up puncturing an artery in a fall.

I know you are having fun grinding down sawz-all blades and making these, but you will be amazed at the improvement in quality and looks that you will get when you gets some real blade steel and make a knife with a file and sandpaper...and harden it. The sawzall blades are not likely hard except the actual teeth tips.

 

[ohaple]

The top blade is too "stiff". It needs some slight curve to the spine, or a little drop at the tip.
The second is better. Both need the edge curve refined a bit.
How do you plan on drilling the holes in the sawzxall blades?

I know you are having fun grinding down sawz-all blades and making these, but you will be amazed at the improvement in quality and looks that you will get when you gets some real blade steel and make a knife with a file and sandpaper...and harden it. The sawzall blades are not likely hard except the actual teeth tips.

For these two designs, I fixed the second one (pictures when I get home). You were right, the blade was "upside-down." As for the first, I understand what you mean by stiff. I think it might need a small upwards curve. I will take out the step at the handle. I am modeling it a bit on this style, just smaller.

I think I have changed my mind on the steel. I am just finishing my first one from a sawzall blade and even though it was cheap, it took twice as long as it should have as I had to fight the steel. The teeth side is hard, but super brittle. The spine side is springy and seems to hold an edge about half as well as my store-bought knives.
I went through 7 hacksaw blades just to cut out a 4 inch (overall length) knife. I didnt end up being able to drill holes in the steel, so I did a work-around by cutting a line in the steel that was as thick as the pins. This will hold the scales top-bottom and rotationally, but the scales could theoretically slide forward and back. Im not worried about it since it is so tiny, epoxied, and is just for home-office use.
Here is the first one almost done. I have learned a lot from it and am going to start ordering steel for the two knives in this thread so I can do it right. I am happy with this one so far, but I will be happier using better steel I think. I was thinking of ordering 1084 since I have read on here that it is able to DIY heat-treat.


Thank you guys for all the continued advice, I really value getting the input for some more experienced people.