yes, for belts i used ceramic 80, 120, 220 or equivalent trizac, then i used 400 equivalent trizak, then either 400 cork or very fine scotchbrite. i don't have a wet grind setup, so i dipped the blade in water after EVERY single pass. i used 80 grit at 75% speed, cuts quick. only use sharp belts, i used 4 blades per belt. after 80 grit i put the vfd at 50%. don't stay in one spot long, keep moving. I use my thumb to keep the blade against the platen (the tricky part for me was when i controlled the blade with my left hand), also helps to know when hot. I ground edge up most of the time, but also switch to edge down occasionally. Don't grind the edge to zero, you might burn it, esp on the finer grits. also watch the tip as you know it can burn faster than any part. the trizac is helpful to blend, i stopped using 220 ceramic after the first 4. remember to dip every pass, keep it moving. for the cork, i do a few passes on the platen, then switch to slack area at the top to blend. i found i didn't need to dip as often with the cork or none with the scotchbrite.
sharpening is also challenging, i use a bubble jig on the tang, using my thumb again to keep the blade against the platen to set the edge bevel (20 degree total). i angle my platen at 10 degree and set my bubble jig to 0. i have my vfd turned to 20-25% max. Once close on the platen or basic bevel is set with 220 grit, i switch to free hand at the top of the belt right next to the guide wheel above the platen, and watch for the burr with bright light. 220, then 40 micron, then 9 micron, hand strop with black and then white compound.
