Advise to buy a sharpening kit.

I own: KME, spyderco sharpmaker, work sharp mk2 grinder, naniwa water stones, diamond stone, and 3-4 different strops and various strop compounds.

For a $100 budget, I would buy a work sharp mk2 grinder ($79) and a leather strop ($15-20). That’s my favorite combo regardless of price.

The results are stellar. It’s basically a miniature version of what actual knife makers use. If sanding belts wear out they are cheap to replace. My favorite part is that I can completely restore an abused edge to razor edge in less than 10 minutes. Every time.

There is a little learning curve to it, but much easier than a stone. Start off on a cheap knife and after 10 minutes you’ll master it.

Do your research and keep us updated!
 
Electricity speeds up sharpening and mistakes, be carefull and follow gamma_nyc's advice! One son loves Ken Onion Edition, which adds bigger motor housing, variable speed trigger and bigger belts in coarse, medium and fine ranges (extra fine are thinner), and upgrade option to add even bigger belt grinder.
 
Thanks guys, I just bought the Work Sharp Precision Adjust basic one for $60. Now that I know I can buy replacement plate, this is a good starting price. I am not into knife sharpening like you guys. After I sharpen all my knives the first time, I doubt I'll be taking it out once a year. I might get one finer diamond plate as the one comes with this is 600 grid.

Thanks for your time.
 
alan0354 said:
Thanks guys, I just bought the Work Sharp Precision Adjust basic one for $60. Now that I know I can buy replacement plate, this is a good starting price. I am not into knife sharpening like you guys. After I sharpen all my knives the first time, I doubt I'll be taking it out once a year. I might get one finer diamond plate as the one comes with this is 600 grid.

Thanks for your time.
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That kit comes with everything you need minus a strop. If your sharpening to get a knife sharp and hold an edge the 600 diamond stone followed by the ceramic and then a quick hit on the strop will do exactly what you need. I recommend going to the pawn shop and buying some dirt cheap knives and practicing on those. Nothing like putting a good knife on it at first only to have to have someone else fix the edge after it’s messed up. Ask me how I know!!
 
gamma_nyc said:
I own: KME, spyderco sharpmaker, work sharp mk2 grinder, naniwa water stones, diamond stone, and 3-4 different strops and various strop compounds.

For a $100 budget, I would buy a work sharp mk2 grinder ($79) and a leather strop ($15-20). That’s my favorite combo regardless of price.

The results are stellar. It’s basically a miniature version of what actual knife makers use. If sanding belts wear out they are cheap to replace. My favorite part is that I can completely restore an abused edge to razor edge in less than 10 minutes. Every time.

There is a little learning curve to it, but much easier than a stone. Start off on a cheap knife and after 10 minutes you’ll master it.

Do your research and keep us updated!
Click to expand...

can you put on a convex with it?
 
The work sharp mk2 will do convex. You determine how much convex you want with the amount of pressure you apply to the blade. This is also something I’d recommend practicing on a butter knife or cheapie.
 
If knives are not going to be a hobby and you just need to sharpen knives around the house, a bench stone and good technique will handle most household sharpening situations. So you cant go wrong with most of the systems mentioned. I have the Lansky set, a Worksharp Ken Onion, several stones and steels. Just be aware that the Worksharp Ken Onion will produce convex edges. About wearing out a stone thats pretty unlikely I think, I have the same bench stone for about 45 years and it is still good and flat.
 
Outside of something motorized and with a belt, it's hard to beat bench stones once you get used to them.

That said, if I carried around an expensive folder I'd used a fixed system to keep the blade clean for resell value. I prefer convexing my edges for retention purposes with a "loose wrist" motion, and I've got scuff marks just above the bevel from being imperfect with my form.

Still prefer it, bench stones are quick!
 
SwissHeritageCo said:
Outside of something motorized and with a belt, it's hard to beat bench stones once you get used to them.

That said, if I carried around an expensive folder I'd used a fixed system to keep the blade clean for resell value. I prefer convexing my edges for retention purposes with a "loose wrist" motion, and I've got scuff marks just above the bevel from being imperfect with my form.

Still prefer it, bench stones are quick!
Click to expand...
I have bench stones, it's hard to control the angle. I want something to shape the angle of the blade, then use bench stone or ceramic rods to do final touch. They each serves their purpose. It's so fast to use the Lansky to grind 20deg. It's so fast with the diamond stone. But diamond won't get you the sharpness. I then go to bench stones and ceramic rod to get the edge.
 
alan0354 said:
But diamond won't get you the sharpness.
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... maybe your diamond, but I've seen some scary sharp edges, made by folks, coming off diamond stones more times then I can count, not including diamond paste or films.
Do use a light hand on your new Pecision Adjust 300 and 600 grit diamond stones, Let stones do the work by keeping pressure low, maybe about your thumb or a couple fingers plus the stone holder assembly low.
 
scottc3 said:
... maybe your diamond, but I've seen some scary sharp edges, made by folks, coming off diamond stones more times then I can count, not including diamond paste or films.
Do use a light hand on your new Pecision Adjust 300 and 600 grit diamond stones, Let stones do the work by keeping pressure low, maybe about your thumb or a couple fingers plus the stone holder assembly low.
Click to expand...
It is the Lansky diamond set, brand new borrowed from my friend. Even the finest one is very rough, might be 600. It's good for reshaping the edge, but it's too rough. I use that the create the 20deg angle. Then I use the diamond rod that is a lot finer to smooth the edge. Then I go to the bench stone, that's the time I do very light, taking my time to do the final touch. The ceramic rod is very good also. I find this way gets me the sharpest edge, cutting off paper by the strips with ease.

The diamond stone sure can create the edge fast. I used to use the bench stone, but the rough one is wearing out when I try to create the new edge. Also, it takes much longer. The diamond can do it fast. So I have no plan to use the Work Sharp I order to do finish touch, just to grind and create the edge.

For kitchen knives, I am thinking about going to 15deg, I really want it SHARP. So far, I do 20deg for folding knives as I do need it to be tougher. What do you think? This is still quite new to me.
 
I received the Work Sharp, sadly it would work for me. Chinese cleaver is our main knife, it is wide and the Work Sharp cannot reach. This is the picture comparing Work Sharp and Lansky, You can see the stone rod of Work Sharp barely reach the edge of the knife, only about 1" of room. The right side is the Lansky, you can see the stone almost reach all the way to the end of the stone.



I have to return the Work Sharp. Maybe it's good for western knives, not for the Chinese cleaver. Also, the Work Sharp will TIP OVER with such a heavy big knife. I have a vise to hold the Lansky and won't have that problem as shown. I have to put something under the knife of the Work Sharp to prop it up to take the picture as shown.
 
SwissHeritageCo said:
This is not the ending I was expecting.
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I know, other than that, it IS BETTER than the Lansky. More precise, stable and all. SAD. But that's our main knife!!!! That's like 70% of knife usage for us.

Good price too, $60 and the two diamond stones are the CORRECT grid, on top, I have a ceramic. That's all I ever need if only I can do the cleaver.

It will cost me more to get the Lansky, it's $80 and I have to spend $11 to buy the ceramic stone.

2 inches longer, I would seriously keeping it. I got only like 1 inch to play with!!! SAD.

For anyone that don't need a cleaver, Work Sharp is so much better in every way.
 
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alan0354 said:
I know, other than that, it IS BETTER than the Lansky. More precise, stable and all. SAD. But that's our main knife!!!! That's like 70% of knife usage for us.
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Get one of these as an upgrade to your Work Sharp precision adjust. You'll be able to sharpen your cleaver and any other large kitchen knives.

www.gritomatic.com

Leading Edge Universal Upgrade Kit for Work Sharp Precision Adjust

Leading Edge Universal Upgrade enhances capabilities of Work Sharp Precision Adjust knife sharpener with features of Leading Edge sharpening platform. Universal Upgrade includes: Leading Edge Core with magnetic working table (one magnet block) and three-point knife guide Long Blade Magnetic...
www.gritomatic.com www.gritomatic.com
 
777 Edge said:
Get one of these as an upgrade to your Work Sharp precision adjust. You'll be able to sharpen your cleaver and any other large kitchen knives.

www.gritomatic.com

Leading Edge Universal Upgrade Kit for Work Sharp Precision Adjust

Leading Edge Universal Upgrade enhances capabilities of Work Sharp Precision Adjust knife sharpener with features of Leading Edge sharpening platform. Universal Upgrade includes: Leading Edge Core with magnetic working table (one magnet block) and three-point knife guide Long Blade Magnetic...
www.gritomatic.com www.gritomatic.com
Click to expand...
From the picture, I don't think it can bring the knife any closer. My problem is the edge is too far away the stone can barely reach with only 1 inch of working distance to grind the knife. This is not any better.

Also, that's $80 extra.
 
I somehow have a clamp from long time ago which is shown in the picture in post #32. This means I don't even have to buy the complete kit from Lansky. I only have to buy the find diamond stone for $22, 4 of those guide rods for $8 on amazon and I am in business. No fancy box or anything but $30 only. Even if I have to buy the next coarse diamond stone, it will be $50 total. Still cheaper than the basic Work Sharp. At this time, I just need to pay $30. I still have my bench stone with coarse stone, I really think I am good with just $30.

Too bad about the Work Sharp, it's good price and better than Lansky, just 2 or 3 inches too short on reach. I just need a longer rod and it will be perfect. They should make an option for longer rod. Ha ha, they will open the market to all the Chinese users. I can assure you most Chinese families rely on that cleaver. We CHOP stuffs!!!!

You go to Chinese restaurant that sell roast duck and roast chicken to go, you'll see the big chopper and chopping board. It's not just for chopping, we chop the chicken and duck in a decorative way for presentation on the plate!!!!.......That needs sharp cleaver.
 
alan0354 said:
From the picture, I don't think it can bring the knife any closer. My problem is the edge is too far away the stone can barely reach with only 1 inch of working distance to grind the knife. This is not any better.

Also, that's $80 extra.
Click to expand...
Yep, just trying to give you a good solution to make a good system even better if you really liked the Work sharp and didn't want to send it back.

With this, you have the option of longer aftermarket stone holders and stones too. This will reach just fine.

www.gritomatic.com

6" Stone Holder for Work Sharp Precision Adjust

Work Sharp Precision Adjust is a fantastic sharpener. However, it's limited by stock sharpening stones mounted on the proprietary holder. 6" Stone Holder for Work Sharp Precision Adjust overcomes the limitation. As of today, you may use any 6" sharpening stones including Venev Centaur and Venev...
www.gritomatic.com www.gritomatic.com

www.gritomatic.com

4" Stone Holder for Work Sharp Precision Adjust

2nd Generation of LE Series stone holders is unbreakable.Work Sharp Precision Adjust is a fantastic sharpener. However, it's limited by stock sharpening stones mounted on the proprietary holder. 4" Stone Holder for Work Sharp Precision Adjust overcomes the limitation. As of today, you may use...
www.gritomatic.com www.gritomatic.com
 
Thanks

i have to think about it, this means I have to get the 6" holder and buy a complete new set of stones.
 
Man - I really see no point of using a guided system to sharpen large/long kitchen knives. To me, free hand with 2 or 3 quality stones and a strop is the way to go. This can be done MUCH faster and can achieve equally sharp edges, if not better (I like a bit convex edges on kitchen knives, which is difficult to get with guided sharpeners).
 
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