AEB-L question

A

abcdef

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Oct 28, 2005
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I hope this is the right forum.

Lots of new blades are AEB-L these days. There is currently a beautiful chopper in the sale section. Is AEB-L a good chopping steel? I am under the impression that choppers are generally carbon. May someone school me on this topic? Thanks.
 
AEB-L is a great all around stainless steel. It has a nice blend of toughness and corrosion resistance and is easy to resharpen. It the carbon steel of stainless.
So it works for choppers as well.
 
AEB-L has a high toughness and should make a great chopping steel, although it really shines on knives with thin geometries.

It's a very "carbon steel" kind of stainless in terms of performance. A bit like a stainless 52100.
 
AEBL has toughness and can also take a very fine edge, so it excells at many different tasks, depending on geometry and hardness. I have seen it used in everything from straight razors to machetes.
 
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My most used SS, from Bird & Trouts to camp knives. Its very tough for SS and a great all around steel. I can tell you from exp that my Bird & Trouts that I make and carry myself are very thin and I cut through fish bones all the time, way rougher than I should and have never chipped one..
 
I'm the same. I've made and sold literally thousands of knives from AEB-L. I only use two steels, AEB-L and 26C3. AEB-L accounts for approx 2/3rds of all my production. I have only seen a very occasional broken tip and since we all know how that happens, I wouldn't hold that against any steel. I have never seen a chipped edge and I get lots of knives back for new sheaths or sharpening, cleaning up, etc. Heat treat by Peters at 62-63RC. This one was just in for rehab. Used daily by a guy in the trades for 5-6 years. He told me if he had his pants on he had this knife on. It did have maybe a 1/8th of an inch off the tip I had to fix, (he fessed to doing something he shouldn't have). Ya can see the use in the deep gouges and pock marks on the copper bolster. I also tightened the sheath up for him and restitched the belt loop on this crossdraw horizontal sheath. Good to go, its on the bench waiting for him to stop by and pick er up.

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Horsewright said:
I'm the same. I've made and sold literally thousands of knives from AEB-L. I only use two steels, AEB-L and 26C3. AEB-L accounts for approx 2/3rds of all my production. I have only seen a very occasional broken tip and since we all know how that happens, I wouldn't hold that against any steel. I have never seen a chipped edge and I get lots of knives back for new sheaths or sharpening, cleaning up, etc. Heat treat by Peters at 62-63RC. This one was just in for rehab. Used daily by a guy in the trades for 5-6 years. He told me if he had his pants on he had this knife on. It did have maybe a 1/8th of an inch off the tip I had to fix, (he fessed to doing something he shouldn't have). Ya can see the use in the deep gouges and pock marks on the copper bolster. I also tightened the sheath up for him and restitched the belt loop on this crossdraw horizontal sheath. Good to go, its on the bench waiting for him to stop by and pick er up.

h24xPe6.jpg


gxhcfpA.jpg


hc22qnx.jpg
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I love the scars on that one. Someday I'll order one of yours.
 
abcdef said:
Mind blown. Thanks for the responses.
Click to expand...

Lots of Great Makers have answered, and I'm sure more Makers will chime in.

Me, I love it and all its variations... It's Tough.
Tougher than 3V at higher harnesses

I like bushcraft/woods knives treated to 62HRC.
Edc, to kitchen knives treated to 63-64 HRC.

I like tough, Hard steels.

You can't go wrong with it.
Probably the most underrated steel out there, almost Best for Everything.....
From Choppers to edc, to chefs knives. Seriously!
 
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