AEB-L Questions

i4Marc

i4Marc

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Oct 19, 2011
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I did a BladeForums search but didn't find the answers I need. I am getting ready to HT my first stainless kitchen knife blade. It is AEB-L. Thickness is currently at .110 but will likely be closer to .08 after I surface grind it nice and flat. I have HT foil for the plate quench and following that with a sub zero bath. I will be using an Evenheat oven for the austenitizing.

My questions are these:

Does AEB-L require normalization before austenitizing?
If so, what are the cycle temps and should the normalizing cycles be done with the blade in foil?
What are recommended tempering temperatures for highest practical hardness?


Or, if you are experienced with AEB-L and have a proven regimen that yields great results, feel free to share your process. :o
 
I followed the manufacturers recommended heat treat (saved on my other computer) and have not used normalization. I have done all of my skinners and kitchen knives at Rc62, and have been pleased with the feedback from the testers and customers. The steel came out dead on as expected following the data sheet.
 
Interested in this also. If ever I were to start with a stainless....it is def going to be AEBL.
 
Where did you find the data sheet? I can't find anything about HT except on AKS website. I have several that are ready for HT, but I've been holding off on them until I get my SZ set-up.
 
Sorry, I was thinking of the S35VN. For AEB-L I follow the AKS website, and have ended up exactly where I wanted to be.
 
Got this recipe from Darrin Sanders. He indicated that AEB-L should be around 62 Rc in order to get the most out of it.

At that Rc, it might be a bit "chippy" for some jobs, but as a kitchen slicer, it really does well.

It NEEDS a sub zero soak (I used dry ice and alcohol)

Bring oven to 1950
Put blade(s) in and hold for 30-35 minutes
Plate Quench
Into Dry-Ice for 45 min to 1 hour
First temper at 325 for 1 hour
Walk in to 62 Rc (maybe temper up to 350-375)
Back in dry ice between first and second temper for 30-45 minutes

I ended up at 365 and it checked 61.5 - 62 - 61.5 on the Rc tester with three tests.
 
Thanks Robert. I've read good things about Darrin's results.

Thanks Willie.
 
Very interested and glad I saw this I have a big old bar of this for some kitchen knives I plan to make someday.
 
=================================================================================================
From Alpha Knife Supply:


Heat Treating Information:

Preheat: Heat to 1560° and equalize.

1920°F Austenitize: Ramp to 1940°F and hold at temperature for 15 minutes. Oil or plate or air quench as quickly as possible.

1975°F Austenitize: Ramp to 1995°F and hold at temperature for 5 minutes. Oil or plate or air quench as quickly as possible.

Cryogenic Treating: To get the most from AEB-L you must cryo. Cool to -95 °F. No soak is required.

Temper: Temper immediately after hardeneing or cryo. Temper at least 2 times for two hours each time. Use the table below to achieve desired hardness. (See Alpha website for chart)

===================================================================================================
 
Thanks bluntcut. Good info there!



So....I surface ground my blade down to .80 from .110 and ended up with a potato chip. I knew it was going to happen. I went slow and kept cooling it with a saturated sponge but it warped all out of shape anyway. No biggie. I got it all straight again. My question is, Are there retained stresses in the blade even though I straightened it? Will it spring out of shape again when I austenitize or quench it? I have read that stainless or air hardening stainless doesn't need to be normalized but should I normalize anyway just to be sure stresses are relieved? Aaaaand......If so, would normalizing sequence be the same as carbon steels?
 
Robert Dark said:
Got this recipe from Darrin Sanders. He indicated that AEB-L should be around 62 Rc in order to get the most out of it.

At that Rc, it might be a bit "chippy" for some jobs, but as a kitchen slicer, it really does well.

It NEEDS a sub zero soak (I used dry ice and alcohol)

Bring oven to 1950
Put blade(s) in and hold for 30-35 minutes
Plate Quench
Into Dry-Ice for 45 min to 1 hour
First temper at 325 for 1 hour
Walk in to 62 Rc (maybe temper up to 350-375)
Back in dry ice between first and second temper for 30-45 minutes

I ended up at 365 and it checked 61.5 - 62 - 61.5 on the Rc tester with three tests.
Click to expand...

Thats what I use and I have yet to hear a complaint for anyone whose tested, bought or handled on of mine in AEB-L . :D


i4Marc said:
Thanks bluntcut. Good info there!



So....I surface ground my blade down to .80 from .110 and ended up with a potato chip. I knew it was going to happen. I went slow and kept cooling it with a saturated sponge but it warped all out of shape anyway. No biggie. I got it all straight again. My question is, Are there retained stresses in the blade even though I straightened it? Will it spring out of shape again when I austenitize or quench it? I have read that stainless or air hardening stainless doesn't need to be normalized but should I normalize anyway just to be sure stresses are relieved? Aaaaand......If so, would normalizing sequence be the same as carbon steels?
Click to expand...

Did you remove the steel all from one side or did alternate with equal passes?
 
"Did you remove the steel all from one side or did alternate with equal passes? "


Well, It was on a mag table so I couldn't easily flip it back and forth. I did one side then the other. I knew this would be a problem and tried to minimize stresses but I got what I expected in the end. It's straight now but I worry about it warping later in the quench.
 
I'm very interested in this thread.
I have done a knife in SS only once in 14c28n, which is quite similar to AEB-L, and for slim thicknesses it was adviced a short soak.
I suppose it was because the microstructure was already set up from the mill, and longer soaks could have messed up the fine carbide array at those aus temps, but i'm interested in your opinions on AEB-L.
 
AEB-L always pesters me with warp. :confused: Most annoying steel I've ever used. Makes a hell of a nice blade though.
 
I have only used AEB-L and S35VN, and I much prefer the fine grain of the AEB-L. If I needed more wear resistance, I think S35VN would do the trick. Being used to fine grain carbon steels, the higher alloy in S35VN with the toothier edge feels odd to me. It's not a criticism, just my observation/preference.
 
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