AEB-L with Prequench heat treat- strange blade behavior

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Feb 16, 2014
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I did a batch of 5 AEB-L knives last night, and decided to do some experimenting. First I made a set of coupons and used my normal heat treat but varied the austenitizing temperature to dial in the optimum temperature. Big surprise for me, the coupons at 1975f came out harder after dry ice bath than those at 1995 which was my standard temperature.

So, then decided to give the Devin Thomas prequench approach a try based on his generous posting on another thread. Batch of coupons at 1725 for 20 minutes, plate quenched, then put each back in the oven at different temperatures again for 8 min, then plate quench and into the dry ice mixture. Each was placed in the oven when it reached the target austenitizing temp. Again the coupon at 1975 was the hardest, and slightly harder than the coupon from my test with my original process so I decided to go for it with a batch of chef knives and utility knives.

Everything was going well, until the final step. As i pulled each blade out of the oven to plate quench, they drooped and bowed inside the foil packet. Never seen this before with my original process. When I set them on the aluminum plate before clamping, they had as much as a 1/2 inch curl from end to end. Once clamped, they came out pretty straight, but I could see a slight bend in most still. Decided while they were still a bit hot to bend them back into shape with gloved hands and my granite block for reference. I was surprised that they actually bent fairly easily and thought I must have messed up the heat treat for sure. Got everything straight into the dry ice bath- and the slight bow returned! Tested each blade and was happy to see each hit the target hardness, just have an annoying slight bow that probably only I will know is there but will bother me just the same! later, after an hour in the tempering oven I took them out to try to straighten but now they were locked in to their shape with no adjusting possible.

Anybody try this and notice the same? Is there something about the prequench that produces a softer blade at austenitizing temperature? Is the 8 min at austenitizing vs the 5 I used in my previous process causing this? Worried now that I don't have a process that produces straight blades.

Appreciate any advice- already made a note to self about "not experimenting when running a batch of knives" haha!

Stuart
 
Where did you get the steel?

Is the bow on the flat side or on the profile?

Hoss
 
I got the steel from Aldo. I have cut steel from the same piece before with my original process (1560 for 5, then ramp to 1995 and hold for 5) and it didn't do this. The blades were also from two different pieces of steel- .130 and .110. The blades are only profiled, bevels to be cut after heat treat. The bow on some was uniform, others did a bit of a twist as they bowed. All were soft enough that just grabbing the foil packet with tongs and lifting it from the oven I could see the blade bending around- like it was gummy. The only thing I can think of is my oven inadvertently got hotter than I thought- the thermocouple was between 2 large chef knives and along with the other 3 knives may have been shielded from the overall oven temp? Cross section of oven is 4x6". Just a guess though.
Thanks!
Stuart
 
How thick are the blades? Thin as less than .090"?

When removing any blade from the oven at 1975ºF it's going to be pretty easy to bend. I make a habit of lifting blade only with edge (or back side) up, not laying flat - when moving from oven to plates. The blade should be straight when removed from quench plates. Remember, the blade is still fairly easy to bend when first removed from plates, and will be for a couple of minutes.

When putting blades in dry ice they sure will take a warp if laying on side. Even with trying to keep blade edge up - or back up - anything but laying flat, I've had problems with thin blades warping in dry ice. I now use a cooler where I can put blades in vertical, point down with tang at top. This has helped prevent warped blades for me.

Ken H>
 
Thanks for the tips Ken! My thinnest blades were .110"
Great idea on the dry ice in vertical cooler. What kind of cooler are you using that allows this? I was thinking I could just use a long PVC pipe but worried that the low temps could stress plastic. Maybe I will just wrap some of the 3" aluminum tube that I have in some insulation and use that.
Stuart
 
How about a big round work site water cooler?
Thanks for the tips Ken! My thinnest blades were .110"
Great idea on the dry ice in vertical cooler. What kind of cooler are you using that allows this? I was thinking I could just use a long PVC pipe but worried that the low temps could stress plastic. Maybe I will just wrap some of the 3" aluminum tube that I have in some insulation and use that.
Stuart
 
I use a steel welding rod container with insulation around it and do just two or three at a time.
 
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