Al Mar SERE 2000 : mainly batoning/prying

Cliff Stamp

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Specifics on the Al Mar Sere 2000 :

http://www.almarknives.com/catalog_2005.shtm#SERE2000

The SERE 2000 is made from VG-10 stainless, 0.15" thick stock, with a high flat grind which tapers to a very thin (0.012-0.016) and acute edge 16 (2), the tip tapers for 1.8" and is 0.91" wide at the back of the taper. The handle is very thick and filling in the grip with a ultra deep clip which attaches to the very end of the handle.

The knife opens very smoothly, 500 (25) g will release the blade from the handle and immediately it is reduced to 200 (25) grams and the blade swings almost effortlessly. The lock is stable under spine impacts both whippy and heavy, however can be released readily under hammer grips and moves readily to disengagement in heavy wrist torques.

This knife was donated for an examination of the lock and blade for strength/stability in wood working (specifically batoning and prying), however I also did some cutting work first as the profile looked very efficient and the blade performed very well and overall had one of the better balanced cutting profiles seen in awhile.

On a 50 lbs push into a phonebook it achieved 175 (7) pages, sliced through 3/8" hemp with 13 (1) lbs and made a push with 21 (1) lbs. It cut through the bottom of a 591 ml pepsi bottle with 55 (2) lbs, and through the bottom of a 2L with 75 (2) lbs. Television cable could be push cut with 60 (2) lbs [1] and the knife pointed sections on 1.5x5x5 cm birch flooring with 9.8 (9) slices.

On some small sections of local softwoods, the Sere 2000 outchopped the Mora 2000 by 92 (2), not even in the same class. The SERE was also in general a much better carving knife on both softwoods like Pine and harder woods like birch and oak. However after the short chopping session (54 chops from the shoulder), the liner lock had compressed the tang of the blade and there was visible play.

The lock was still stable under spine impacts and didn't seem any less secure in general so it was used with wrist impacts to baton a dozen small pieces of various woods :

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/al%20mar%20sere%202k/al_mar_sere_2k_baton_wrist.jpg

At first the splitting was attempted with no hand pressure on the handle but even though the wood was selectively chosen to be relatively clear and straight, the small (0.25") knots caused the time to be five times greater without hand stabilization and it only worked to directly split half the wood as the other half the wood would need to be split in sections or by wedges rather than direct batoning which would increase the time even further.

As a result of the wrist impacts the lock had now compressed into the tang heavily and the knife was moving so much that with some wrist shaking it would click back and forth heavily. The amount of force used as noted was light, all the splitting was done while sitting down, using just wrist motion and would take on average 6-12 hits to split a piece of clear wood which would be readily chop split trivially with a large knife.

I benchmarked the impacts in the same way as I did with the X-Ray Vision to insure that the SERE 2000 was recieving the same amount of energy and to further illustrate the level of impacts I asked a visiting trio of gentlemen for assistance. These were a three, five and seven year old, kid. I replaced the knife with a wooden wedge and simply asked them to drive it into the wood with the same baton I was using.

The three year old had some trouble hitting the wedge, and the force he applied was low. The five year old was more focused and had no trouble matching the level of impacts that I was generating was swinging from the shoulder with the stick over his head. He took it pretty seriously. The seven year old determined not to be outdone easily surpassed his younger brother. The kids are generally physically active, but nothing out of the ordinary in terms of physical ability.

As a more demanding task a small piece of wood was chosen which was completely ring knoted, there was no way to split the wood without having to cut through a knot[2], even a small section could not be side split as the wood was only small diameter, so elbow swings were used to drive the SERE 2000 through a knot (splitting it, not chisel cutting it which is *far* worse). The knife took about a dozen kits to clear the knots at which point the wood was just cracked by hand as the other end was knotted as well.

These impacts were twice as energetic as the wrist ones, again still done sitting down with a small wooden baton (under 2" thick and a foot long), the liner lock had collapsed into the handle and was recessed down so it could not be released. A screwdriver was used to check if it could be unlocked which it could, however it was so badly warped and twisted that it cracked before it fully released :

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/al%20mar%20sere%202k/al_mar_sere_2k_baton_90.jpg

The problem was that the liner on the SERE not only has the normal milling that most do to make the lock easier to release, it was also skeletonized which made it *much* weaker in terms of twisting and in general resisting the straight compression force of the tang, it would have been left much stronger if the milling had just been made deeper and not been skeletonized. The tang of the blade is also milled in such a way that the liner only makes contact for a small fraction of its height, and the tang is left very rough which accelerates wear.

The blade was then checked for the ability to dig/pry in wood which it had none due to the very thin tip, it could not break out a piece from a clear spruce 2x4" from 1/4" deep, 1/2" deep and at 3/4" deep the tip took a bend of 1/16" to the side thrugh 1/2" back from the tip, 45 (5) lbs was necessary to bring the blade flat to the wood, just wrist torque.

Moving up to a full inch into the wood, the SERE required 70 (5) lbs to cause the knife to crack and it lost 1/2" of tip, the blade was 1/16" thick through the crack, and there was a visible bend through the tip. Inserting the blade into a crack to its full thickness, it required 175 (5) lbs to crack it off through the main blade body :

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/al%20mar%20sere%202k/al_mar_sere_2k_final.jpg

The handle was rock solid with no effect by even the heaviest prying so it could seem to support a thicker blade. It would be interesting to duplicate this with a liner which makes full contact with the tang and is not skeletonized and ideally was much wider to reduce pressure and thus compaction.

-Cliff

[1] this chipped the edge a couple of times as the inner cu core bent, the cuts need to be made fairly fast and direct to avoid damage to the edge

[2] the wood can of course be split with wooden wedges and using the knife to cut a starting notch, this takes much longer of course
 
Interesting test! So, after testing, would you trust the knife (NIB) in an emergency/short-term survival situation? In other words, could you build a shelter, make fire, prepare food without this knife failing catastrophically?
 
Thanks again for another great post. I sure that you that you put these blades through much more then I ever would in a day in day out use, but every tool has a job and sometimes you have what you have. Thanks again and looking forward to seeing more.
 
jokrswylde said:
In other words, could you build a shelter, make fire, prepare food without this knife failing catastrophically?

Yes, even with the lock mangled, the knife just rotates freely, you can continue to use it with a baton, all you have to do to stabilize the handle/blade alignment is press down with the thumb and pull up with the pinky.

If I had to depend on the SERE for such use, the first thing I would do is make a small wedge and use it to jam the liner so it didn't engage the tang and baton with it like that and just take the wedge out later for any cutting.

woodysone said:
... looking forward to seeing more.

Yeah I really don't think that is the limit, the lock just has several major design flaws. I would do it with the small Sebenza, but the edge would blow out immediately. I will be trying it with a few more folders shortly, liners, compression and lock backs.

-Cliff
 
Cliff Stamp said:
Specifics on the Al Mar Sere 2000 :

http://www.almarknives.com/catalog_2005.shtm#SERE2000

The SERE 2000 is made from VG-10 stainless, 0.15" thick stock, with a high flat grind which tapers to a very thin (0.012-0.016) and acute edge 16 (2), the tip tapers for 1.8" and is 0.91" wide at the back of the taper. The handle is very thick and filling in the grip with a ultra deep clip which attaches to the very end of the handle.

The knife opens very smoothly, 500 (25) g will release the blade from the handle and immediately it is reduced to 200 (25) grams and the blade swings almost effortlessly. The lock is stable under spine impacts both whippy and heavy, however can be released readily under hammer grips and moves readily to disengagement in heavy wrist torques.

This knife was donated for an examination of the lock and blade for strength/stability in wood working (specifically batoning and prying), however I also did some cutting work first as the profile looked very efficient and the blade performed very well and overall had one of the better balanced cutting profiles seen in awhile.

On a 50 lbs push into a phonebook it achieved 175 (7) pages, sliced through 3/8" hemp with 13 (1) lbs and made a push with 21 (1) lbs. It cut through the bottom of a 591 ml pepsi bottle with 55 (2) lbs, and through the bottom of a 2L with 75 (2) lbs. Television cable could be push cut with 60 (2) lbs [1] and the knife pointed sections on 1.5x5x5 cm birch flooring with 9.8 (9) slices.

On some small sections of local softwoods, the Sere 2000 outchopped the Mora 2000 by 92 (2), not even in the same class. The SERE was also in general a much better carving knife on both softwoods like Pine and harder woods like birch and oak. However after the short chopping session (54 chops from the shoulder), the liner lock had compressed the tang of the blade and there was visible play.

The lock was still stable under spine impacts and didn't seem any less secure in general so it was used with wrist impacts to baton a dozen small pieces of various woods :

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/al%20mar%20sere%202k/al_mar_sere_2k_baton_wrist.jpg

At first the splitting was attempted with no hand pressure on the handle but even though the wood was selectively chosen to be relatively clear and straight, the small (0.25") knots caused the time to be five times greater without hand stabilization and it only worked to directly split half the wood as the other half the wood would need to be split in sections or by wedges rather than direct batoning which would increase the time even further.

As a result of the wrist impacts the lock had now compressed into the tang heavily and the knife was moving so much that with some wrist shaking it would click back and forth heavily. The amount of force used as noted was light, all the splitting was done while sitting down, using just wrist motion and would take on average 6-12 hits to split a piece of clear wood which would be readily chop split trivially with a large knife.

I benchmarked the impacts in the same way as I did with the X-Ray Vision to insure that the SERE 2000 was recieving the same amount of energy and to further illustrate the level of impacts I asked a visiting trio of gentlemen for assistance. These were a three, five and seven year old, kid. I replaced the knife with a wooden wedge and simply asked them to drive it into the wood with the same baton I was using.

The three year old had some trouble hitting the wedge, and the force he applied was low. The five year old was more focused and had no trouble matching the level of impacts that I was generating was swinging from the shoulder with the stick over his head. He took it pretty seriously. The seven year old determined not to be outdone easily surpassed his younger brother. The kids are generally physically active, but nothing out of the ordinary in terms of physical ability.

As a more demanding task a small piece of wood was chosen which was completely ring knoted, there was no way to split the wood without having to cut through a knot[2], even a small section could not be side split as the wood was only small diameter, so elbow swings were used to drive the SERE 2000 through a knot (splitting it, not chisel cutting it which is *far* worse). The knife took about a dozen kits to clear the knots at which point the wood was just cracked by hand as the other end was knotted as well.

These impacts were twice as energetic as the wrist ones, again still done sitting down with a small wooden baton (under 2" thick and a foot long), the liner lock had collapsed into the handle and was recessed down so it could not be released. A screwdriver was used to check if it could be unlocked which it could, however it was so badly warped and twisted that it cracked before it fully released :

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/al%20mar%20sere%202k/al_mar_sere_2k_baton_90.jpg

The problem was that the liner on the SERE not only has the normal milling that most do to make the lock easier to release, it was also skeletonized which made it *much* weaker in terms of twisting and in general resisting the straight compression force of the tang, it would have been left much stronger if the milling had just been made deeper and not been skeletonized. The tang of the blade is also milled in such a way that the liner only makes contact for a small fraction of its height, and the tang is left very rough which accelerates wear.

The blade was then checked for the ability to dig/pry in wood which it had none due to the very thin tip, it could not break out a piece from a clear spruce 2x4" from 1/4" deep, 1/2" deep and at 3/4" deep the tip took a bend of 1/16" to the side thrugh 1/2" back from the tip, 45 (5) lbs was necessary to bring the blade flat to the wood, just wrist torque.

Moving up to a full inch into the wood, the SERE required 70 (5) lbs to cause the knife to crack and it lost 1/2" of tip, the blade was 1/16" thick through the crack, and there was a visible bend through the tip. Inserting the blade into a crack to its full thickness, it required 175 (5) lbs to crack it off through the main blade body :

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/al%20mar%20sere%202k/al_mar_sere_2k_final.jpg

The handle was rock solid with no effect by even the heaviest prying so it could seem to support a thicker blade. It would be interesting to duplicate this with a liner which makes full contact with the tang and is not skeletonized and ideally was much wider to reduce pressure and thus compaction.

-Cliff

[1] this chipped the edge a couple of times as the inner cu core bent, the cuts need to be made fairly fast and direct to avoid damage to the edge

[2] the wood can of course be split with wooden wedges and using the knife to cut a starting notch, this takes much longer of course

Wow Cliff, I am utterly impressed:thumbup: .........I am surprised that it outcuts the Mora 2000. Seem that the magic of Scandi flat grind is not that impressive, eh. BTW, tell me which knife would you take to the wild if you have only 1 choice, the SERE or the X-ray Vision?

BTW, great works,........let see what knife I can donate to be sacrified next, LOL.

Cheers,



Juice
 
Cliff Stamp said:
Yes, even with the lock mangled, the knife just rotates freely, you can continue to use it with a baton, all you have to do to stabilize the handle/blade alignment is press down with the thumb and pull up with the pinky.

If I had to depend on the SERE for such use, the first thing I would do is make a small wedge and use it to jam the liner so it didn't engage the tang and baton with it like that and just take the wedge out later for any cutting.



Yeah I really don't think that is the limit, the lock just has several major design flaws. I would do it with the small Sebenza, but the edge would blow out immediately. I will be trying it with a few more folders shortly, liners, compression and lock backs.

-Cliff

Sebenza edge would blow out immediately?.........can you clarify why....

Cheers,



Juice
 
Juiceseller said:
Sebenza edge would blow out immediately?.........can you clarify why....

The edge is too thin and not suported by the high hollow grind. The local woods are simply not clear enough. My small sebenza even more so because it came with an edge thickness of half of the expected so it is much weaker, but cuts better and is easier to sharpen.


Juiceseller said:
I am surprised that it outcuts the Mora 2000.

The Mora 2000 is one of the better scandi type blades as it is both really thin and actually has a pseudo-primary grind. What I was finding was that under high force (70-80 lbs), the Sere was able to cut deep but still separate the wood while the Mora tended to bind and thus had to make more shallow cuts. This was on moderate hardwoods (birch flooring), on really soft woods a thicker grind still was more optimal, the Spyderco Poliwog was more efficient than the Sere for example on a piece of clear white pine 2x2.

Seem that the magic of Scandi flat grind is not that impressive, eh.

In general only when compared to heavy ground tacticals.

BTW, tell me which knife would you take to the wild if you have only 1 choice, the SERE or the X-ray Vision?

Not even close, the Sere has much better cutting ability, grip ergonomics and security and clip strength. They are not even in the same class.

samhain73 said:
Hmm, I took a Sere apart once, and mine didn't have a skeletonized liner?!

I emailed Al Mar, they reference a "new" version on the website, I don't know which one this is, previous or current. This one has about a third of the liner removed in the recessed area and the bottom part collapsed with little deformation on the top thus the strength was about 1/10 of solid stock.

I also forgot to mention that after the blade was broken through full stock I watched a friend load the blade to over 200 lbs with the blade in wood up to the stud, to check the handle stability, no problems.

I then put it back into a crack in a piece of wood and gave it a light wrist pop with the same baton and the blade shattered through the stud which was kind of surprising, it must have been micro-cracked from the loads.

-Cliff
 
I have seen varying behavior on lock backs, some were extremely capable of resisting impacts (Chinook), some were not (Persian). I'll try it with the 4Gen Endura when it comes back from the passaround.

-Cliff
 
mm skeletonized liner... pretty bad idea considering what we already say about liner lock ey?
 
I was about to dig this up and just found that someone already did!

Cliff, what do you mean by skeletonized on the liner? Mine has a cutout, maybe 2cm long right at the bend in the liner. It's otherwise solid.

Is that the skeletonized you mean or did your's have more holes in it?
 
Yes, that is what I meant. This isn't the optimal way to reduce the locking bar tension as it trades off too much strength along the other axis and can become a fuctional weak point.

-Cliff
 
So does anyone know whether the current version of the Sere is the skeletonized liner or the solid liner?
 
Cliff, Thanks for taking the time to test these knives.

The more I read and learn the more I'm inclined to believe that batoning should always be a "last resort" option with any folder.
It seems that their is simply no way to predict if a folder will survive or not.

Allen.
 
In general with any knife use it is usually a good idea to explore less stressful options first and to go with really heavy ones only if time constrained, or just evaluating. Or course what is stressful for one isn't going to be with another.

Locks have been static load tested for a long time now, several companies have published/promoted their locks based on that statistic. Hopefully they will also expore dynamic loads and move into impact testing and possibly lead to locks developed for this as well as just slow loads.

Considering the promoted use of some of these knives such as martial/tactical applications, and specifically referenced weapon on weapon clashes, an impact is a more appropiate measure of strength than a slow load, though that also has usage in general, utility prying mainly.

-Cliff
 
Well there isn't anywhere near me where I can handle a Sere and inspect it first hand so I ordered one just to get a close-up look at it. Overall I was pretty impressed.

There are only two things that turned me off:

Firstly, the cut-out in the tang which is on my Sere exactly as Cliff described it on the one he tested for this review.

Secondly, the non-metal pivot bushings. I dont know if they are plastic or nylon or something else but they are white and look like plastic.

For some reason I have trouble putting as much faith in these bushings as I would put in metal bushings. Of course I have nothing to base that on. I would be interested in hearing opinions on these bushings from someone more educated than myself.
 
Wow, that's a very disapointing review considering I was thinking about buying a SERE 2000 in a week or so.

I have had problems in the past with liner locks disengaging in a hammer grip and I see you (Cliff) have been able to get that to happen on the SERE too.

That's a shame for such an expensive nice looking knife. :(
 
It is one of the common problems with liners, it is fairly sensitive to hand shape though. I have seen folders which I could hammer release very easily but pass them to a friend and they had a difficult time even when trying intentionally to do it.

-Cliff
 
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