Al Mar SERE 2000 VS Kershaw Blur S30V

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Jan 4, 2011
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As a general use folder for pretty much anything, would you guys recommend the Al Mar SERE 2000 over the Kershaw Blur S30V? Or the opposite way around? Kind of stuck between the two, don't know which one to get. Thanks. :)
 
I like Al Mar, and I even like the Sere2k. But the value, in my opinion, is much better in the Blur. It may depend on whether you like assisted opening or not, and there SERE2k does probably have the better handle. But the Blur has the better blade shape (in my experience) and just looks nicer.

I'd take the Blur.
Or if you want to step it up a notch, maybe you should pick up a ZT0400
ba05300.jpg

It's just basically a Super Blur.
 
Would you recommend anything else? I don't really like the tanto blade, not a big fan of it. Also, in dependability and endurance, which one would be better between the two? thanks.
 
If it were me, I'd choose the Al Mar, but that's just because I really don't like recurves. But I completely agree with what Artfully Martial said: the Blur is a significantly better value than the Al Mar, and you could get a ZT (which are a lot of knife for the money) while still paying a decent amount less than you would for the SERE. ZTs are extremely dependable/robust and, like every other knife in the KAI/Kershaw/ZT stable, are backed by one of the very best warranties in the business.

If the tanto of the ZT 0400 doesn't suit your needs, check out the 0350.
 
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Neuron's got a great point on the 0350. Beautiful knife and really a steal:
ZT-0350CB-Zero-Tolerance-Tactical-Folder.jpg


I think they usually go for something like $130-$140. But I think they're about to dry up if you want one. They're a little pricier than the 0400, but you get an elmax composite blade and g10 handles, so it's probably an equal value, if not slightly better. I'm not really a fan of the plain g10 handles anymore, so I passed on it.

A tremendous value you could have is the Kershaw Avalanche. It's got S30V, assisted opening, G10 handles and a pretty robust liner lock, usually for around $70. It's one of the best deals that no one seems to know about (or take advantage of anyway).

Kershaw-Avalanche-1570-350x350.gif


I sold mine last week and already miss it.
 
Umm, I've seen one of those ZT's before, and to tell you the truth, they're kind of big. I mean big as in enormous for a pocket folder, but each to his own. So yea. Also, would the VG 10 or S30V be easier to sharpen? which one gets sharper (opinions please)?
 
An obvious competitor to the SERE2K would be the ZT0200, which usually goes for around $120.

ZT-0200-Zero-Tolerance-Military-Folder-Knife.jpg


It uses 154CM, which is probably slightly "below" VG10, but it's got a much better handle, 3D machined G10, a very, very robust liner lock and a much better price tag. Like the SERE, it's a manual, so if you like that, there's a plus.

Another knife in that price range to consider against the SERE2K is the Manix 2.
SP101GP2.jpg


They usually go for around $80-$90 in my recollection. Again, 154CM steel, but it probably has the best ergonomics of the bunch and an interesting bb lock which is essentially the same thing as an axis lock.

Just some thoughts.
 
Yes, the ZT line, other than the ZT0350, is quite large. The 0350 is pretty substantial too, as is the Manix 2, but they aren't quite the pocket anchors the others are.

The Avalanche is comparable in size, as I recall, to the Blur. It's basically a cheaper S30V blur with better handle material.
 
Quick clarification: the 0350 pictured in post #5 -- the one that goes for $130-140 and is about to dry up -- is the 350CB, a limited edition with an Elmax/14C28N composite blade. The regular production 0350 (with an S30V blade) should be easy to find and goes for $112 most places.

Also, you're right that some ZTs, such as the 0200 and 030X, are pretty big, but the 0350 actually weighs less than the SERE 2K (4.8 oz. vs. 6 oz.) and has a smaller blade (3.25 in. vs. 3.6 in.).
 
The ZT's blade shape is more useful than the SERE's (on actual everyday tasks). To appreciate aesthetics and just playing with the knifes is a different matter entirely - personal tastes.
 
The SERE 2000 is kind of similar to the Benchmade 710 and Spyderco Military. The ZT series is excellent in that price range, too, but it doesn't sound like you like them. I'd personally have one of those two over the SERE; Al Mars are a little pricey considering the steel they use. They're very well made, though. But one annoying thing is that they're pinned, so they can't be taken apart for cleaning or repairs. Both the 710 and Military will retain an edge better than the VG-10 of the SERE.
 
To smithkzn:
why would the ZT be easier to use than the sere? to me the sere seems like a modified spear point but with more emphasis on the cutting edge. JohnWayneColt45's review of the sere on youtube shows that it slices and push cuts through paper really well. also, how do you use a recurve exactly? people say you put more power on the first cut, like a kukri, instead of sawing back and forth as on a regular knife.
 
I use recurve for rope-like materials that are otherwise hard to manage. This can range from a simple string, to a literal rope to cutting a strip of tape. With the recurve, just put the rope (etc) before the belly and pull. The recurve catches it and just slices it in half. With a spearpoint (or so on) it doesn't catch all the time and slides right off unless you're like holding it against the blade with pressure.

At the same time, the end of the blade can be used nicely for slicing or chopping and the point is usually pretty centered if you're interested in SD use.

I suppose I'll throw in the CRKT Ripple too. SS framelock, Acuto + steel (???) and supposedly the smoothest production action. I've seen it in action and it opens as fast as an assisted, has the framelock for toughness and I'm told the Japanese steel used is somewhere between 440C and VG10 in edgeholding. But the real perk is the size and weight, which are pretty close to what you desire (I think) and the price, which is $80. So we've got all your price points covered here.

crkt-K405BXP-onion-ripple.jpg


Full disclosure: I ordered an 0200 and Ripple today, so I'm pretty sure they're good.
 
Ok so I think I'm more inclined to the Blur now. But how does the handle do? which one has better ergonomics and adapts to the environment better? (etc: in the desert, or in the snow) does the blur get really hot and really cold in those conditions? for the al mar it shouldnt matter because its got g10 handles, but the blur has aluminum handles. also, on youtube, whats with people spinewhacking the blur with the back of their hand and the lock fails? does this apply on the s30v version? is the blur lockup strong? thanks
 
Aluminum can get hot or cold, but it won't get hotter than body temperature unless you like leave it in the sun, and if it's cold you'll be wearing gloves, so I don't see this as an issue.

The grippy stuff they use in it is pretty excellent. I have it in my 0400 and it seems tough and it grips better than plain ol G10. And it looks cool.

The main concern with aluminum handles is that they're not the most durable things. They can scratch pretty easily or you can put dings in them if you drop it.

I can't say about the Blur's lock rigidity, but I wouldn't worry about it personally. Spinewhacking is hugely unrealistic in the first place. As far as I know, however, all models of the Blur currently share the same liner lock, although the wear of the liner lock will theoretically be affected, to some degree, by the hardness of the tang, which is greater in S30V than, say, the 440A the Blur launched with many years ago.

Thomas W or STR can chime in on that area.

If this is going to be a hard use folder, I think you'd be better off with the 0350 or 0400.
 
Alright, I think I'm sold on the kershaw. Probably gonna place an order for it within the next two weeks. Is this really a hard use folder? not really because i carry a becker necker usually with me. i just like having robust locks on my folders. thanks guys. :)
 
artfully martial, i think your right because on my boker, never had any failures with it, liner lock is still as strong as ever. maybe why they failed on youtube is like you said, the tang probably eroded away.
 
well, generally liner lock wear doesn't result in failures so much as eventual blade play when the liner moves down the tang and can no longer compensate for wear. But even that isn't that big of a problem insofar as you can just send it in for warranty service and it'll get fixed by Kershaw. It shouldn't result in a lock failure. Also, you should get many years out of it before it gets to that point.

As per the Blur's lock failure, it's hard to say. Keep in mind that the Blur is a runaway hit in the knife world and they've probably sold hundreds of thousands of them. Those who had defective models were probably moved to make a video about it, but represent a tiny, tiny percentage of the total Blur owners, many of whom reside happily here.

The Blur is not a hard use folder, but you acknowledge that, so I don't see you running into trouble trying to baton a log in two with a Blur.
 
Artful, you're on a roll man!

Just to add, if you're concerned about your blur's lock rigidity, the Kershaw factory makes sure that each knife passes the lock test. I believe that the locks tend to shift around while they're sitting in boxes / shipping out or whatever as the parts are fitting into place due to screw tension, and that's what causes the occasional lock failure.

It really doesn't happen that often at all, and if it does, Kershaw will be more than happy to fix the issue for you.

The Blur has quite an "open" shape that supports a wide range of handholds. This makes the knife very "ergonomic" as the hand adapts to the open design quite readily. (It doesn't have a confined choil or thumb ramp)

I in PA and we've had -5 F degree weather recently. Of course, since it's metallic, it will seem cold to the touch; nothing unbearable though. I've never had an issue of the blurs being warm in 108 F degree weather last summer, nor in humid climates while in Honduras.

To sum up, the blurs are all made the same, just with a different blade steel / shape. You could even theoretically swap out handle colors if you wished. All 3 of my blurs have solid lockup right at 35-40% and haven't budged since, no play up/down. A word on sharpening, as long as you use ceramic sticks / the spyderco sharpmaker / paper wheel system you'll be just fine. Kershaw will also sharpen your knife back up for you for free as part of their lifetime guarantee.

"Hard-use" has different meanings for different people. I've used all of mine hard while outdoors, as well as in cutting endurance tests. They've all held up just fine; it's one of Kershaw's bestsellers--they don't make "weak" knives.

Here's a photo from a previous thread to keep you enticed:

BLURS6.jpg


And a simple yet thorough review of the S30V Blur: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=793781
 
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