Alberta Steak knife or Camp Knife

[69_knives]

Not quite sure what to call this... 12" O/A, 6 7/8 tip to guard, hidden tang, bocote handle, spring steel guard. I'd post in the pics forum but my KM status isn't activated yet.

I'm pretty sure I where my flaws are but feel free to point out any or add comments.

Gotta work on forging in that plunge some more and I think I may add a thong hole, haven't decided yet.

 

[aggopian]

Calll me primative but I like it. Handle looks all kinds of comfy and it seems like just the right length for a camp/food prep knife. I would shorten the bottom of the guard a bit but otherwise I think it is very nice.
Good Job

 

[jdm61]

You must have some BIG steaks in Alberta. One thing is that when you grind down after HT, you can take the edge down much thinner than you might think. It took me a while to figure that out. .020-.030 is MUCH thinner than you might think from looking at an edge.

 

[James_Terrio]

Gotta work on forging in that plunge some more...

You sure about that? I think it looks kind of cool with a gradual plunge like that. In theory it's stronger than a deep square plunge cut, isn't it?

I know a nice crisp plunge is highly admired as a sign of quality workmanship. But is there any structural or performance reason for it? Just thinkin' out loud again...

Anyway I like the knife as much as I like anything in that size range. I can't see the edge, and I agree the guard doesn't need to come that low. I always like the butt of the handle to be thicker than at the guard but maybe that's just me. Looks like there might be a bit of a gap where the guard meets the ricasso. But other than that it looks like a fine woods knife. What's the steel/HT?

 

[69_knives]

aggopian, thanks for the nice comments.

jdm61, good tip, I'm always cautious about grinding my edge too thin. I checked with the micrometer and at 1/4" in it's about .050. I'm still learning about edge geometry, just scratching the surface on that one.

 

[69_knives]

You sure about that? I think it looks kind of cool with a gradual plunge like that. In theory it's stronger than a deep square plunge cut, isn't it?

I know a nice crisp plunge is highly admired as a sign of quality workmanship. But is there any structural or performance reason for it? Just thinkin' out loud again...

Anyway I like the knife as much as I like anything in that size range. I can't see the edge, and I agree the guard doesn't need to come that low. I always like the butt of the handle to be thicker than at the guard but maybe that's just me. Looks like there might be a bit of a gap where the guard meets the ricasso. But other than that it looks like a fine woods knife. What's the steel/HT?

Yes there is a gap, I thought I had it buttoned up before I glued the handle but there it was again after set-up.

You're probably right about the gradual plunge being stronger, I'd still like to tighten it up a bit, even if I only clean them up a bit on the grinder and not worry about the perfect cut... a little more definition would be nice.

Steel is 5160, 3 times normalized, 2x quenched, one 2 hour temper at 360F and one differential temper with a torch.

 

[john0270]

Nice knife, just wondering where did you get that wood(looks awsome), and what finish did you apply, and where are you getting 5160(I am asuming its new stock?). Anyway keep up the good work, everything will fall into place with enough practice. I always pin all my hidden tang knives, I am paranoid.

 

[69_knives]

Nice knife, just wondering where did you get that wood(looks awsome), and what finish did you apply, and where are you getting 5160(I am asuming its new stock?). Anyway keep up the good work, everything will fall into place with enough practice. I always pin all my hidden tang knives, I am paranoid.

Thank you for the comments.

I got the wood from a local place called black forest I bought a slab of it and will cut chunks out for handles as needed. I melted on some bees wax and then rubbed and melted in a couple applications of carnauba wax. The lighter areas are actually much lighter than the pictures depict.

I notched the tang quite well and I'm using an autobody panel welding epoxy but I am still going to do some hacking on some firewood and stuff just to be sure... if it comes apart, I can fix the gap in the guard

I'm not at liberty to say 'where' I got my 'real' 5160, except that it's from this box.

 

[bjalongi]

69, I think you're getting better with each blade you post. It's fun watching people progress. This would make a great camp knife.

I am by no means an expert, but I would like to point out a few details that you might find helpful in the future.

The angle of your guard is backwards. You'll find that if the guard is not perpendicular to the center line of the blade, it is desirable to have a little cant in the opposite direction that yours is oriented. I say desirable, because that is what customers often look for. But the beauty of knife making is that you can design it how ever you like.

You can make a simple jig with two pieces of your extra 5160 flat stock and two bolts. It will allow you use it as a file jig to line up the plunge lines on both sides, if you so desire, as well as making sure your angles are square on the back of the ricasso. This will ensure a tight fit against the guard.

Soldering the guard would also help add a little strength to the overall package if you choose against pinning the handle.

Again, I really like your work. I am waiting to the see the next project.

Have a great weekend.

BJ

 

[69_knives]

bjalongi, I'm taking notes...

I appreciate you taking the time for the tips and comments. Jig should definitely be more accurate than me eyeballs.

I might take a break from the forge this weekend and try making some sheaths. Too many sharp pointy things in my room, I'm afraid I'll fall asleep while admiring one and wake up in a bad way.

Thanks again.

 

[jdm61]

Another tip. Don't try to do a "sculpted" handle right off the bat. My experience was that they end up way to small because you keep trying to get the shape right assuming you get it right. Start off with a simple oval shape and make the handle where it meets the guard the same width as the ricasso. Same deal with the guard. Just go with a flat guard at first.