Aligning a KMG

J

JBC69

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Feb 22, 2015
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I recently moved into a shop that has a large evaporative cooler. Because of the dramatically increased humidity, Ive noticed some of my shop tools have started to rust/patina at an accelerated rate. I'd like to pull my KMG apart and put a coat of paint on it but I've heard a story or two about people taking them apart and then not tracking worth a darn after putting them back together.

I've looked on Beaumont's webpage and did a quick google search but I didn't find any info about disassembly/reassembly. Is there a procedure for aligning all the wheels and making sure I put the thing back together as squarely as possible?
 
I used to just put automotive wax on mine (the speed shine stuff in a spray bottle)but the fact is most of use will be long dead before a KMG rusts out.
 
Lu1967 said:
I used to just put automotive wax on mine (the speed shine stuff in a spray bottle)but the fact is most of use will be long dead before a KMG rusts out.
Click to expand...

It's more about me being OCD and liking to keep my machinery clean/tidy... With how stout it is, I could probably spray it with salt water every day for the rest of my life and it would never rust out. :)
 
When you align the wheels take into account the wheels are not all 2" wide and you need to be sure the center line of each wheel is in alignment with each wheel.
 
Calling Rob will be your best bet. Mine was out of alignment once and he told me to hit it with a rubber mallet after i sent him a pic of the wheels and how it was tracking. Fixed it right up
 
It shouldn't be much trouble to square up the components and make the grinder run true after dis-assembly and then re-assembly if you desire take it apart to paint it. If you are making knives, you should be able to handle this.

I like the patina look, personally. Every month or two/three I will wipe my bare-metal KMG down with Ballistol "Sportsman's Oil" (Gun oil in a large can) and it has resisted rust for 9 years even in my local average 75% relative humidity.

In the long run, paint will eventually chip and need refinishing. An oiled metal can last almost indefinitely with an occasional wipe-down.

I have and like Beaumont Metal Work's products, but I wouldn't expect too much technical support from them/Rob regarding assembly procedures, etc. This doesn't seem to be his strong point in my experience.
 
I use a product called "Rustlick" that I spray on my mill and lathe tables, KMG's and other large tools and a little rust here or there is not going to make or break the fact they are working tools....I look at the paint chips on my machines and shrug it off cuz tools are gonna chip sooner or later.

Mark a center line on your wheels before you disassemble and run a string down the line after assembly and turn the wheels by hand and see if the string runs true or use a long straight edge and take a couple measurements.
 
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