- Joined
- Jun 11, 2006
- Messages
- 8,650
Well its been awhile since i built the first rotating head for my NWG. and i love it to death but after using it for so long i wanted to redesign it a bit. the key issues i wanted to address are these. first a longer platen, my first rotating head only had a 4" platen and now this one has an 8" and maybe you could do a 9". I know this will work on a KMG and KMG clones but I'm not sure about on a NWG. I am in the process of boxing up my NWG as it has a new home it needs to go to. but i can try it out and see for everyone. the next thing i wanted to address was how everything was centered. I wanted to be able to use ether the 8" or 2" wheel as well as the flat platen and not have to change the location of the tool arm very much. well i have it so you only have to move it around an 1" or so for each position. and the last thing was changing its positions. befor it was a nut yo had loosen to rotate it then re tighten it. now the rotating head mounds to a 1.5" dia stud that has a 3/4" spud on the end. this spud fits in a hole on the tooling arm and there is one Allen bolt that locks it into place. the bolt could be replaced with a knob or small handle so no tools would be needed. here is a drawing of the new redesign. it its drawn for using a CNC mill to make it but all the measurements are there. i will do another drawing for people that are just using more simple tools. so here are some pictures to give you an idea what i'm talking about.
EDIT, sorry.
in the first drawing you see the 5 1/4" bolt holes that bolt the head to the stud. i rotated them 18 deg around the center so that i would have more room on the edge from strength. also the drawing has the contact wheel holes listed as 1/2" but that just means 1/2"-13 taped. so really you need to drill it with like a 27/64 drill i think. sorry for the mix up.
EDIT, sorry.
in the first drawing you see the 5 1/4" bolt holes that bolt the head to the stud. i rotated them 18 deg around the center so that i would have more room on the edge from strength. also the drawing has the contact wheel holes listed as 1/2" but that just means 1/2"-13 taped. so really you need to drill it with like a 27/64 drill i think. sorry for the mix up.