All in one grinder head, Platen, slack and wheels

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I have a hure slab of aluminum that i'm going to make a base out of soon or some day ;)
 
i was wondering if someone could take a design similar to this one and add a timing belt similar to kmg's rotary platen to it so that it would give a little extra support to slack wheel and minimize the "bump" effect of the seam of the abrasive belt against the flat platen. any thoughts?

thanks
 
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Now that's what I am talking about! Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet!:cool: :thumbup::thumbup:
That's taking the box and ripping it up!!!!!!!:eek:
Did I mention I like it! :p :D
 
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You need to make a few more and put them up for sale!!! I definately would love to own one.:thumbup:
 
I might have some laser cut. i am going to be making a change to it so that the platten mounting bolts will clear the tool arm socket.
 
Abslutely SICK machine!!!! I mean that in the good way too.... Makes my NWG look like a turd. hehe
Also i have been checking out your grinding how-to videos and they are very helpful thanks!
 
JTknives said:
Well its been awhile since i built the first rotating head for my NWG. and i love it to death but after using it for so long i wanted to redesign it a bit. the key issues i wanted to address are these. first a longer platen, my first rotating head only had a 4" platen and now this one has an 8" and maybe you could do a 9". I know this will work on a KMG and KMG clones but I'm not sure about on a NWG. I am in the process of boxing up my NWG as it has a new home it needs to go to. but i can try it out and see for everyone. the next thing i wanted to address was how everything was centered. I wanted to be able to use ether the 8" or 2" wheel as well as the flat platen and not have to change the location of the tool arm very much. well i have it so you only have to move it around an 1" or so for each position. and the last thing was changing its positions. befor it was a nut yo had loosen to rotate it then re tighten it. now the rotating head mounds to a 1.5" dia stud that has a 3/4" spud on the end. this spud fits in a hole on the tooling arm and there is one Allen bolt that locks it into place. the bolt could be replaced with a knob or small handle so no tools would be needed. here is a drawing of the new redesign. it its drawn for using a CNC mill to make it but all the measurements are there. i will do another drawing for people that are just using more simple tools. so here are some pictures to give you an idea what i'm talking about.

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EDIT, sorry.
in the first drawing you see the 5 1/4" bolt holes that bolt the head to the stud. i rotated them 18 deg around the center so that i would have more room on the edge from strength. also the drawing has the contact wheel holes listed as 1/2" but that just means 1/2"-13 taped. so really you need to drill it with like a 27/64 drill i think. sorry for the mix up.
Click to expand...
 
Because his post is over 8 years old . I believe Photobucket changed their hosting policy a couple years ago and old links don't work.
 
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