All Steel Axes/Tomahawks-Uses?

Pee Dee Knives

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Is there really any practical use for an all steel axe/tomahawk beyond “tactical” uses? Thinking something like an RMJ axe. I imagine that they can chop ok, but would not be as ergonomic as a wood handled axe and would transmit any vibrations into the user.

I’m not saying they are pointless, but their utility seems limited. Am I missing something?
 
Is there really any practical use for an all steel axe/tomahawk beyond “tactical” uses? Thinking something like an RMJ axe. I imagine that they can chop ok, but would not be as ergonomic as a wood handled axe and would transmit any vibrations into the user.

I’m not saying they are pointless, but their utility seems limited. Am I missing something?

They should have similar utility to a tomahawk, assuming you get one of the longer ones. It's not trying to be an axe though, at least not the kind I think you're comparing it to considering the ergo question. Tomahawks can have pretty uncomfortable handles because they're limited by the eye of the head due to being a slip-on style. I find the cold steel hawks very uncomfortable to use and prefer the one-piece hawks, at least compared to the cold steel. I still haven't tried a nicer options like a 2hawks.

I'm not sure the vibration transmission would be a lot different, wood handles can vibrate plenty as well. If you're using good technique, supposedly, you're supposed to almost throw the axe into the wood at the end of the chop so that you don't get the shock so much. by "throw" it's really more like loosening your grip a little so the handle can wiggle. Similar concept to a pinch grip with machetes.

I think the main advantage over a wood handle is better durability as you shouldn't be breaking too many handles, at least in the utility sense. For the more tactical sense, like breaching doors and what not, it's more obvious with the ability to pry. The main negative is weight since a wood handle of equal length is much lighter, assuming a hawk again which tend to have thinner handles. Maybe they can do a lot of milling underneath the scales to minimize this. That also affects the balance for chopping since you want a head heavy tool for chopping so the heavier handle is less ideal. But, they work fine.

I guess another subjective disadvantage is you loose the ability to remove the head to carry the tool in a more compact package, but that's certainly not everyone as most people are probably carrying hawks in a ready to use fashion.

I'm sure someone with more knowledge on hawks will correct me on parts of that but the one-piece hawks can still have plenty of utility to them.
 
David Martin (R.I.P.) posted a pic of this one he has used to chop up wood. it's not what you're askin bout, but is a forged all steel one......so an all steel axe can be used to chop wood as David used to use it sometimes.. pic is David's in farm life thread used to post in over in Buck forum......20170108_112457_zpssfdy5pnc.jpg
 
Is there really any practical use for an all steel axe/tomahawk beyond “tactical” uses? Thinking something like an RMJ axe. I imagine that they can chop ok, but would not be as ergonomic as a wood handled axe and would transmit any vibrations into the user.

I’m not saying they are pointless, but their utility seems limited. Am I missing something?
As said before the prying resistance that can't be achieved by wood or synthetic and the fact that it's nearly indestructible. Some have a tool at the end of the handle, unachievable unless it's in metal.
 
All the uses.

ps this forum really isn’t fans of full tang , hawks and axes. Ask me how I know

is it a great wood chopper no, will it chop wood yes.

self defense, war, yes

will it bust a window or a door, yes

will it cut a squash, yes

will it impress your friends, yes

Will it do any and everything yup.

piece of mind that you have a tool that will stand up to what ever you Throw at it. Priceless - well 250-500$

Just plain kewl
 
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I have an Estwing all-steel axe from Home Depot. Use it as a beater all around the house, mostly for wood chopping (not a frequent job in California, but still), it's basically maintenance free. ~50 bucks if I remember right.

Has an ergonomic nylon grip, and no problems with vibrations at all. Maybe not popular among aficionados but it works.
 
The steel handle, aside from ruining the balance of the axe and being easily warped, adds the necessary weight for the tool to function in its best use as a boat anchor.
😉
How do you easily warp 1/4"+ steel?

Also while they do are heavier the lack of balance really ain't that bad. Length and head geometry has way more influence on performance
 
Is there really any practical use for an all steel axe/tomahawk beyond “tactical” uses?
The only all steel axe I have is a Craftsman hatchet that was given to me. I really appreciated it when splitting this Black Walnut log:
AoHrKID.jpg

Because of the stringy nature of the log, some fibers were still intact holding the two halves after the work was done with the wedges. The space left between the two halves was tight, narrow, and some of the attached fibers inside the split were below a normal axe head so the handle would would enter the split to reach the fibers. I used this hatchet to sever the fibers without worrying about damaging a wooden handle. This is what I had at the time and accomplished what I wanted. YMMV:thumbsup:



Bob
 
The steel handle, aside from ruining the balance of the axe and being easily warped, adds the necessary weight for the tool to function in its best use as a boat anchor.
😉

No.

This is what I have.

i-BnpTvmt-XL.jpg


3.7 lbs total.

Not saying it's the right tool for everybody, and I also like my classic Bavarian wood handle axe. But, the budget full steel axe is rugged and I can do stuff (torque side-ways) I'd be hesitant to do with a traditional axe.
 
Is there really any practical use for an all steel axe/tomahawk beyond “tactical” uses? Thinking something like an RMJ axe. I imagine that they can chop ok, but would not be as ergonomic as a wood handled axe and would transmit any vibrations into the user.

I’m not saying they are pointless, but their utility seems limited. Am I missing something?
I'd consider Estwing a very legitimate maker of hatchets/axes, and I proudly own one of their A24's. Is it my favorite? no, it's not- but it works well enough and it's basically bulletproof. I swing other axes more regularly because generally I don't need to worry about busting handles and I prefer the better balance of a wood haft. I use axes for wood processing and I have no reason to use an axe otherwise.

Then there's the military whatever blah blah "full tang" knives that look like axes/hatchets/tomahawks. There's a bunch of paramilitary civilians out there who're very interested in clowning around with them; busting locks, conceal carrying them, throwing them... you name it. I'll let those folks explain why they think those hunks of steel are so practical, but I'll live my whole life and never need to breach a door or take a man's life with an axe or (in this case) an axe-shaped knife. There's usually a, "but this legitimate guy does it!" line with a link to some video of some guy I've never heard of doing some technique no one ever required in some militaristic load out. The key to spotting these people is they're the ones with trenching shoves digging fallout shelters in their suburban back yard.
 
Is there really any practical use for an all steel axe/tomahawk beyond “tactical” uses? Thinking something like an RMJ axe. I imagine that they can chop ok, but would not be as ergonomic as a wood handled axe and would transmit any vibrations into the user.

I’m not saying they are pointless, but their utility seems limited. Am I missing something?
I say you are right and they are limited.
The all steel Estwings are mostly of an axe profile and thickness ( their extra thin long bits aren't perfect ), while most all steel tactical hawks are more of an axe shaped knife than anything due to their flat stock construction / profile so they aren't going to really do the same things a regular hawk or hatchet can in utilitarian work.

I'm sure if one had nothing to compare too though they could probably get the job done around a the campsite with little complaint but I think you'd have to really be dead set on it's tactical " advantages " to not eventually go looking for a more efficient alternative.
 
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No.

This is what I have.

i-BnpTvmt-XL.jpg


3.7 lbs total.

Not saying it's the right tool for everybody, and I also like my classic Bavarian wood handle axe. But, the budget full steel axe is rugged and I can do stuff (torque side-ways) I'd be hesitant to do with a traditional axe.
I've seen plenty of those with warped necks. I've seen plenty of warped Estwing hammers as well.

They hold up pretty well while sitting on a shelf.
 
Estwing hammers get warped by construction monkeys prying sideways with them, or leaving them where they get run over by trucks. Not hard to straighten them out on an anvil with a 4# hammer, but it weakens them so they bend easier next time.

If you use 2x4s for concrete form whalers, the shank edge of an Estwing hammer does a great job of scraping them off.

If you have some nice Estwing hammers and hatchets (like I do), don’t loan them to construction monkeys. They see them as a challenge. Don’t loan your wood handled hammers to them either, they break off right beneath the head.

Parker
 
No.

This is what I have.

i-BnpTvmt-XL.jpg


3.7 lbs total.

Not saying it's the right tool for everybody, and I also like my classic Bavarian wood handle axe. But, the budget full steel axe is rugged and I can do stuff (torque side-ways) I'd be hesitant to do with a traditional axe.
Last month I passed on 2nd hand 26" Estwing Camper's Axe. In addition to being warped sideways the handle was twisted by 10 degrees.
I've also seen sideway deformations on Vaughan, and Bridgeport (possibly a German copy) hatchets.
Old Plumb all steel hatchets had design flaw that caused handles to crack in the middle.
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-plumb-hand-axe-hatchet-hammer-3832055621
vintage-plumb-hand-axe-hatchet-hammer_1_097c179ed48847fb3b011d5c4276048b.jpg


https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-antique-plumb-hatchet-plumb-1923782550
vintage-antique-plumb-hatchet-plumb_1_5bc5f079479f9d2e1b0ef42560250286.jpg
 
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Estwing hammers get warped by construction monkeys prying sideways with them, or leaving them where they get run over by trucks. Not hard to straighten them out on an anvil with a 4# hammer, but it weakens them so they bend easier next time.

If you use 2x4s for concrete form whalers, the shank edge of an Estwing hammer does a great job of scraping them off.

If you have some nice Estwing hammers and hatchets (like I do), don’t loan them to construction monkeys. They see them as a challenge. Don’t loan your wood handled hammers to them either, they break off right beneath the head.

Parker
This is exactly right. That little bit of sideways prying is what does in the axe handles, too.

The 20 oz. Estwing straight claw hammer is the mainstay of concrete formsetters. I keep one myself just for that work. They are strong when pulling straight back from the claw. But if you pull sideways for increased leverage as every carpenter does with his wood handled hammers then the steel necks warp right away.
 
Then there's the military whatever blah blah "full tang" knives that look like axes/hatchets/tomahawks
The problem with these hatchet shaped knives is that they don't chop worth a damn. Too much weight in the handle and not enough in the head make them slow and powerless.
 
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