Alternate machines for handle sanding?

C

Cushing H.

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So, kind of an offbeat question. In my old shop, I had space for only one grinder … used for both metal grinding and for sanding/ finishing handles. One of the issues was keeping sparks and sawdust separate … so I would have to do a thorough cleaning before moving from handles to metal.

in my new space, I will have room for two machines ( if I wish). Question is, is there an alternate machine for working handles without going to a full-up grinder? Handles just don’t need the power, but when working on them I definitely make use of the vfd ( often on really slow speed), and also use the slack belt option (especially with scalloped due belts … which are readily available on 2x72 belts.

so, is there an option without getting another costly grinder?
 
Maybe an inexpensive 1x30 and take the platen off for slack grinding? They require a lighter touch as they are fast. The belts are dirt cheap for them also?
 
I have a NR 2 x 72 grinder I love. However years ago I went over to using a HF oscillating spindle sander for doing my handles. The dust collection port works awesome with a standard shop vac. Several different sizes of sand drums. I forget who years ago on this forum showed how to use standard sandpaper on the OS. Whoever it was I thank you! Simply cut to length and wrap around the spindle use either a strip of painters tape or as I do now use rubber bands. Of course you have to watch which direction the motor turns but it works awesome. Endless grit sizes etc. Depending on the diameter of drums you can unwrap and reverse wrap to use the entire cut of sand paper.
 
DanF said:
Maybe an inexpensive 1x30 and take the platen off for slack grinding? They require a lighter touch as they are fast. The belts are dirt cheap for them also?
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You know, one of the very first knives I handled (from a kit), I did on a 1x30. I still have the sander! The high speed scares me though, as I’ve gotten so used to sanding at really slow speeds. too bad you can’t put a vfd on one of these..
 
Dunno what you consider costly, but Coote's 2x48 has a small footprint for around $500. You'd have to scrounge a motor, but could potentially use your existing VFD.
 
drum sander is something i use here and there for the rounded area's they generally run at a lower speed for wood any ways and I use worn belt on the 2x72 on the slack for stuff that does not call for the drum sander

you might be able to pick up something used if you need anther good sanding machine by checking the usual places
 
Is there a problem with mixing wood sanding dust with metal dust? I keep a bit of water in bottom of my dust collector so the sparks don't have a chance to cause problems with the wood dust.

Do a search on Grizzly T32459 and the grinder will show up. Looks like it's got a stepper motor, in which case it will have full torque even at low RPM. That controller sure needs tweaking a bit so the rpm range is MUCH slower than it is. 7,000 SFPM belt speed is blazing fast. Perhaps a much smaller drive wheel? If I didn't have a horizontal 2X72 grinder I think I'd order one just for the horizontal position.
 
Make yourself the machine. High quality rasps make handles in practically no time at all. And it's really satisfying. No burn, no sudden mistakes. Add in a high quality wood file from somewhere like Lee Valley and you can go directly to hand sanding after.
 
Ken H> said:
Is there a problem with mixing wood sanding dust with metal dust? I keep a bit of water in bottom of my dust collector so the sparks don't have a chance to cause problems with the wood dust.

Do a search on Grizzly T32459 and the grinder will show up. Looks like it's got a stepper motor, in which case it will have full torque even at low RPM. That controller sure needs tweaking a bit so the rpm range is MUCH slower than it is. 7,000 SFPM belt speed is blazing fast. Perhaps a much smaller drive wheel? If I didn't have a horizontal 2X72 grinder I think I'd order one just for the horizontal position.
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The spark bong does collect most of the sawdust, but it is very difficult to capture *all* of it. There ends up a fine coating of sawdust all over the grinder and the bench it sits on. I don’t want to take any risk of that fine dust igniting … so before I shift from wood to metal, I do a thorough vacuuming of the grinder and it’s bench
 
Another option is a second grinder like the new 2X42 VS from Grizzly. Use a shop vac to catch the wood dust and vacuum the machine and bench up well after doing a handle. If you directly connect the vacuum, you will need to dump the vacuum tank and shake out the filter often, as wood dust really clogs up the filter. To avoid dumping the vacuum tank, get a small cyclone separator. The cheap Dust-RIGHT separator is plug-and-play. The plastic Dust Deputy and clones are good for wood dust/chips as well as general cleanup in the shop, but you will have to mount it on a drywall bucket or similar tank.

The all-metal dust deputy is great for sucking up the grinder dust from the spark bong or spark trap.

.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Another option is a second grinder like the new 2X42 VS from Grizzly. Use a shop vac to catch the wood dust and vacuum the machine and bench up well after doing a handle. If you directly connect the vacuum, you will need to dump the vacuum tank and shake out the filter often, as wood dust really clogs up the filter. To avoid dumping the vacuum tank, get a small cyclone separator. The cheap Dust-RIGHT separator is plug-and-play. The plastic Dust Deputy and clones are good for wood dust/chips as well as general cleanup in the shop, but you will have to mount it on a drywall bucket or similar tank.

The all-metal dust deputy is great for sucking up the grinder dust from the spark bong or spark trap.

.
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I just got a chance to take a look at the new machine from grizzly - nice (and very affordable). I will definitely be needing scalloped belts .... but only see them in 2x42 on a quick google search from one source (which I have never heard of). Does anyone know if scalloped 2x42 belts are more generally available???

Dust collection - all of my collection systems have dust deputies upstream of the vacuum itself - so clogged filters basically never happen (the cyclone separators work extremely well - and in either case how could a self respecting chemical engineer, specializing in fluid mechanics, *NOT* use a cyclone separator????? :)
 
Most belt manufacturers will make up any size and type belt in 10-packs if tey don't stock them. Try Tru-grit. I used to get my custom belts from Klingspore, but now I find everything I want from FGS (Flat Ground Stock) in England. Shipping is stupid cheap and fast. Don't know who carries scalloped in 2X42" but I would suggest calling some of the manufacturers.
 
Ground Flat Stock Knife Supply. It is a knife supply company in the UK. It ships fast and cheap worldwide. groundflatstock.com
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Another option is a second grinder like the new 2X42 VS from Grizzly. Use a shop vac to catch the wood dust and vacuum the machine and bench up well after doing a handle. If you directly connect the vacuum, you will need to dump the vacuum tank and shake out the filter often, as wood dust really clogs up the filter. To avoid dumping the vacuum tank, get a small cyclone separator. The cheap Dust-RIGHT separator is plug-and-play. The plastic Dust Deputy and clones are good for wood dust/chips as well as general cleanup in the shop, but you will have to mount it on a drywall bucket or similar tank.

The all-metal dust deputy is great for sucking up the grinder dust from the spark bong or spark trap.

.
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lol, I actually ordered one last night after reading that thread, with the idea of doing handles and anything else I need to flip it horizontal for.
 
That other thread made me realize that ( unless I missed it) the smaller machine can’t use small wheels … which is something I use all the time for handles… 😒
 
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