Alternative to Bark River knives?

[jeepin]

Sorry for the thread derail, but it looks like jeepin has to respond. Jerry Busse has disputed your claim. It seems to me that you can either:

1. Stand up, and say 'I'm sorry, I must have misremembered' (you could say that you were drinking at the time, that is the all-purpose excuse for the rest of us)

or

2. Find the thread that supports your claim.

Thank you.

It was from this thread below. And the second paragraph below is the guy with the knife.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1440017-quick-question?highlight=denied+warranty


I've often wondered what it takes to really ruin the HT of a blade. I dont know much about metallurgy but the general rule of thumb I was taught back in shop class was that when you sharpen a drill bit or chisel, as long as you don't heat it enough to change the color you're good to go, and if you do you cool it and grind until you get past the color.


I wasn't there when my knife was sanded, and couldn't tell Jerry for sure what happened unfortunately. He decided (and I agreed) that it voided the warranty. I understood, accepted it and moved on. Live and learn. If you cherish a knife, don't loan it out.

 

[skyhorse]

When I first saw your photo, it looked to me like those things above your knife were fingers!? Nice knife, but what the heck are those things?

Lol, fingers.

 

[buckfynn]

Lol, fingers.

Thanks, Skyhorse. Pretty damn funny. :thumbup:

 

[Mikael W]

1. It's great that things worked out for you. OTOH, there have been many threads by people who didn't have such a good resolution from BRK.

2. But I am curious ... Mike said that your edge was ground too thin? So, he sells a knife made for chopping, in North America, where there are a lot of hard wood species. And when a customer has a problem, he says that the edge was too thin?? why did it leave the shop too thin? what did he expect people to do with a chopper?

3. While I can certainly see how your reground, lighter blade would cause less fatigue, it is not clear how a thicker geometry could be more efficient. Geometry cuts. Thinner profiles cut deeper and clear more wood, no?

4. Can you please share your prefered geometry, and what kind of wood that you typically chop? I regrind my too thick Bussekin edges down to a more effective geometry.

5. Or, one could simply get a Carothers blade, that simply works as is, according to many reviews.

1. Yes, I have read those threads too and also the threads where the customers have had good service from BRK.
I have chosen to stay with the brands I like, others have found brands they like better and I have no problems with this.

2. Yes, some of their models are made too thin for a hardhitter like me. The Golok is one of them and it's more of a slicer than a chopper.
This can be corrected with a new geometry by removing steel from the edge into thicker stock.

3. Yes, thinner profiles cut deeper but this isn't always the most effective geometry for chopping.
A good chopping edge should not bind in the wood and it should throw the chips away from the cut.
An edge that sinks deep and get stuck, takes more effort to lift out of the wood for the next chop - not good.
A too thin profile will also be at greater risk to get ripples or halfmoon chips.

4. Yes I have Cross-section pic's of the new geometry of the Golok, the FK NL1 Tor and the BR Rogue from 2007.
I often chop, split or baton Maple.

Bark River Golok

Fällkniven NL1 Tor

Bark River Rogue 2007

The pic's show how much the cross-sections fillout a 1/8" slot in a knifeblock.
The Golok and Tor is very close to each other and this is my prefered geometry for these knives.
The Rogue shows a thinner geometry wich sinks deep, but can develop ripples or chipping if swinged in full force.

5. I would love to try a Carothers knife, but they are not easy to get.
When they offer knives in stock at a dealers website, I might buy one.



Regards
Mikael

 

[Jerry Busse]

It was from this thread below. And the second paragraph below is the guy with the knife.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1440017-quick-question?highlight=denied+warranty


I've often wondered what it takes to really ruin the HT of a blade. I dont know much about metallurgy but the general rule of thumb I was taught back in shop class was that when you sharpen a drill bit or chisel, as long as you don't heat it enough to change the color you're good to go, and if you do you cool it and grind until you get past the color.


I wasn't there when my knife was sanded, and couldn't tell Jerry for sure what happened unfortunately. He decided (and I agreed) that it voided the warranty. I understood, accepted it and moved on. Live and learn. If you cherish a knife, don't loan it out.

I never saw this thread when it was originally posted.

I have NEVER denied a warranty claim in over 35 years of making knives. I will reach out to this customer and take care of him.

We may have had a poor communication as to what happened. I really don't know.

Thanks for pointing it out.:thumbup:

Jerry

 

[jeepin]

I never saw this thread when it was originally posted.

I have NEVER denied a warranty claim in over 35 years of making knives. I will reach out to this customer and take care of him.

We may have had a poor communication as to what happened. I really don't know.

Thanks for pointing it out.:thumbup:

Jerry

No problem Jerry

By the way I love my Battle Saw. Now just need to find a sheath for it

 

[palonej]

Seems like pretty good service right there!
👍🏽👍🏽

 

[jeepin]

Seems like pretty good service right there!
👍🏽👍🏽

Yup. Jerry is pretty cool 😎

 

[buckfynn]

I'm in the market for several new knives.

I have many Bark River knives and haven't had any problems with them. But I don't discount the people who have had issues.

Love my LT Wright's, Blind Horse, TOPS, Enzo's, Ontario's, Becker's several dozen custom bushcrafty type knives and a pile more. I guess I am just looking for something a bit different than what I already have.

Considering giving the Swamp Rat Ratmandu CG a try? Comments? Concerns? Thoughts? So far I have been pretty impressed with Jerry Busse showing up in this discussion.

Just have been down the road with a company that pretends to offer a "No Questions Asked Warranty" on the internet, but doesn't stand behind their product in reality. And I really don't care to go down that road again.

 

[jeepin]

I'm in the market for several new knives.

I have many Bark River knives and haven't had any problems with them. But I don't discount the people who have had issues.

Love my LT Wright's, Blind Horse, TOPS, Enzo's, Ontario's, several dozen custom bushcrafty type knives and a pile more. I guess I am just looking for something a bit different than what I already have.

Considering giving the Swamp Rat Ratmandu CG a try? Comments? Concerns? Thoughts? So far I have been pretty impressed with Jerry Busse showing up in this discussion.

Just have been down the road with a company that pretends to offer a "No Questions Asked Warranty" on the internet, but doesn't stand behind their product in reality. And I really don't care to go down that road again.

The Ratmandu is a great choice. One of Swamprat's best sellers.

I have the Swatmandu which is Busse's version and I really like it a lot

 

[buckfynn]

The Ratmandu is a great choice. One of Swamprat's best sellers.

I have the Swatmandu which is Busse's version and I really like it a lot

So if you wouldn't mind, could you give a run down of the difference and/or the advantages of each?

 

[jeepin]

So if you wouldn't mind, could you give a run down of the difference and/or the advantages of each?

There are a bunch of options for the ratmandu's but from swamprat they mostly come coated and are made with SR-101 steel, but they also have some infi versions.

The Swatmandu is infi and comes with a double cut bead blast finish and has a fuller in the blade.

 

[buckfynn]

There are a bunch of options for the ratmandu's but from swamprat they mostly come coated and are made with SR-101 steel, but they also have some infi versions.

The Swatmandu is infi and comes with a double cut bead blast finish and has a fuller in the blade.

Gottcha and thank you! Well I check them out a bit more on the net, I guess.

 

[Sharp_Canadian]

If you don't mind me asking, was the steel A2, 3V or other?

They had an issue a long while back on their sandivk 12c27. The issue hasn't been seen much in years now, but the Hellen Keller grinds.... Still an issue lol

 

[Joej71009]

It's awesome to know how far Busse will go to make a customer happy.

 

[Dangerously]

It's awesome to know how far Busse will go to make a customer happy.

Any manufacturer can publish a "no questions asked" warranty, but almost none of them actually hold to it. Almost none.

 

[skyhorse]

Just for the record.......the OP has vanished. His last post was in this thread. We're recommending knives to the invisible man! I'm still wondering which blade he bought.
Joe

Pretty funny Joe, maybe he said screw it and desided to take up golf.

 

[palonej]

Can we carry knives on the course??? Otherwise??? Screw that!!
Imagine whipping out an XL Espada to chop some brush to find your ball??? In front of Buffy and Jodeeee on the country club course??
Seeing them pass out would make golf fun!!!
I gotta look into that SH!!!
Joe

 

[resinguy]

1. Yes, I have read those threads too and also the threads where the customers have had good service from BRK.
I have chosen to stay with the brands I like, others have found brands they like better and I have no problems with this.

2. Yes, some of their models are made too thin for a hardhitter like me. The Golok is one of them and it's more of a slicer than a chopper.
This can be corrected with a new geometry by removing steel from the edge into thicker stock.

3. Yes, thinner profiles cut deeper but this isn't always the most effective geometry for chopping.
A good chopping edge should not bind in the wood and it should throw the chips away from the cut.
An edge that sinks deep and get stuck, takes more effort to lift out of the wood for the next chop - not good.
A too thin profile will also be at greater risk to get ripples or halfmoon chips.

4. Yes I have Cross-section pic's of the new geometry of the Golok, the FK NL1 Tor and the BR Rogue from 2007.
I often chop, split or baton Maple.

Bark River Golok

Fällkniven NL1 Tor

Bark River Rogue 2007

The pic's show how much the cross-sections fillout a 1/8" slot in a knifeblock.
The Golok and Tor is very close to each other and this is my prefered geometry for these knives.
The Rogue shows a thinner geometry wich sinks deep, but can develop ripples or chipping if swinged in full force.

5. I would love to try a Carothers knife, but they are not easy to get.
When they offer knives in stock at a dealers website, I might buy one.


Regards
Mikael

1. Agreed, stick with what works for you.

2. Golok as a slicer?!? Here is the description:

"It excels at trail clearing, shelter building, notching, splitting firewood. The large knife will take batoning without a complaint and it is great for use as a draw knife for stripping bark or creating a flat area of a log. We feel it is one of the best Bushcrafting tools available on today’s market. "

that does not sound like a slicer to me. YMMV.

3. Agreed. Too thin, like a machete, will bind up in heavy wood chopping.

4. That is a very clever way to show the edge geometry. There was a guy who would press his edges into clay and take a pic, similar idea.

5. There is a very slight chance that I will travel to Malmo in April on business. Maybe I should pack my Carothers Light Chopper and a few other toys in my checked bag and we could have a little GTG? Drinking should be involved. Where is ragnerok and all those other Viking Busse fans?

regards, Guy

 

[Mikael W]

1. Agreed, stick with what works for you.

2. Golok as a slicer?!? Here is the description:

"It excels at trail clearing, shelter building, notching, splitting firewood. The large knife will take batoning without a complaint and it is great for use as a draw knife for stripping bark or creating a flat area of a log. We feel it is one of the best Bushcrafting tools available on today’s market. "

that does not sound like a slicer to me. YMMV.

3. Agreed. Too thin, like a machete, will bind up in heavy wood chopping.

4. That is a very clever way to show the edge geometry. There was a guy who would press his edges into clay and take a pic, similar idea.

5. There is a very slight chance that I will travel to Malmo in April on business. Maybe I should pack my Carothers Light Chopper and a few other toys in my checked bag and we could have a little GTG? Drinking should be involved. Where is ragnerok and all those other Viking Busse fans?

regards, Guy

1. I think it's of importance to explore, learn from and enjoy the existing collection, before making new investments.

2. Yes, I have seen that description and the Golok works as is in most cases, but failed on a dead, dry and hard peartree in my garden.
That was not a "Bushcraft" situation and I don't see myself as a Bushcrafter.
Mike has added that the Golok is intended for drawcuts and not for mercyless power chopping.
He did convert my Golok for my purposes on hardwood and it has worked for this ever since!

3. I only have one machete, a 12" Fiddleback Forge with a blade from Imacasa. It's 0.125 thick but the edgegeometry is actually thicker than the Golok and Tor!
It didn't cut as well as the other two, so I did what You did to the Busse and thinned the edge.

4. It's hard to illustrate actual edgeometry and the knifeblock (from IKEA) was the best way I came up with, but the clay method will also work.

5. That would be really cool!:thumbup:
I'm on a tight agenda, but I can take a Saturday off if it's possible for You to take a plane from Malmö to Stockholm.
I can pick You up at Arlanda Airport and we will go to one of our countryhouses, an hour away from the airport.
I will drive so I will not drink anything but water, but FYI I don't use alcohol anymore as i'm a sober alcoholic for 16 years now.


Regards
Mikael