Aluminum for front and rear plates??

Col Defender

Col Defender

Joined
Nov 11, 2011
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1,398
Usually when I make a bone handled knife, I put a brass plate on each end of the handle, run the tang out the rear plate (threaded) and put a brass acorn nut on it, like this:



Right now though, I have orders for four bone handled knives and the customer originally wanted the plates to be from stainless steel. I was not able to find any stainless steel in the local hardware store but did come up with some sheet aluminum which I am now using. Anyone else ever use aluminum for an application like this? It is very soft but easy to cut, drill and sand. Or should I have tried harder to find stainless steel?
 
I don't like the look of aluminium myself, but a thick billet kind of aluminium might work. Like 3/8" or 1/2" thick. I think I have seen aluminum guards and pommels on Buck knives.
 
I debated doing this as well, just the other night. I ended up using some bronze, because I was worried about aluminum oxidizing and looking funny after a while. Then I remembered my Buck 105 has an aluminum guard and pommel cap(it appears?), so it's not unheard of. I just think it'll scratch too easily to use it on that particular knife I was making.

I may try to use it in the future because I happen to have about 36 sq feet of 3/8" aluminum plate, but I think I will anodize it if I do use it for that purpose.
 
Check out some nickel silver, aluminum can be used but will scratch very easily and will oxidize to that ugly gray
 
Col Defender, May I please add my opinion? I love aluminum. I make all my tool arms from it and most of my specialized tool rests from it but it makes ugly bolsters and pommels. Please use either 416 stainless steel or 303 stainless or my favorite nickel silver. You can buy nickel silver rods and bars from almost every knife supply company in the U.S. If you like the classic look then use brass...but please not aluminum. It makes great cookware and lightweight structural stuff but lousy, cheap, knife parts. I hope I did not mince words. Larry

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kuraki said:
I debated doing this as well, just the other night. I ended up using some bronze, because I was worried about aluminum oxidizing and looking funny after a while. Then I remembered my Buck 105 has an aluminum guard and pommel cap(it appears?), so it's not unheard of. I just think it'll scratch too easily to use it on that particular knife I was making.

I may try to use it in the future because I happen to have about 36 sq feet of 3/8" aluminum plate, but I think I will anodize it if I do use it for that purpose.
Click to expand...

Type III (hardcoat) anodizing is more scratch resistant then any titanium
 
Yes, I'm familiar, which is why I said if I end up using it, I will get it anodized :)

That said, I've done a number of gun parts at home in battery acid with a battery charger. While they don't get as hard as Type 3, the .22 LR suppressor I did looks exactly the same 2 years later as when it came out of the bath (left natural, no dye). Anything is better than raw T6 temper.
 
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