Am I on the right track?

It's a gorgeous little knife, but for a woodsbumming tool:

I don't like to carry knives with bulbous handles made from slick materials, it makes the knife hard to control. Especially ones with no way to keep my hand from sliding up the blade if they get wet/slick.

I like that you've thought to include the ferro rod, and in the handle seems nifty (atleast you'll know where it is when you need it) but...ever tried to unscrew something when you can't feel your fingers or when they're wet/cold?

As far a knife just to take with you on a day trip or two, this knife is great. It'd make a helluva conversation piece. But I don't know that I could trust it on some of my trips, and that is the point of view that I'm scrutinizing with: I'm not a backpacker, or a day tripper. When I go, I go to work on my bushcraft/survival skills and I'm gone for days at a time with nothing but my knife and my maxi-kit (on me, I always make a base camp and I'm rarely by myself, and if I'm by myself I always mark my trail and leave a note at the trailhead, basecamp, etc..). Sometimes, little more than my knife and a water bottle (before I got married and had more responsbilities than just me).
Please don't take offense to what I say, I'm not trying to come off as saying I'm as good or better than Ron Hood, Myke Hawke, any of the guys at RAT, John McAnn, John McPhereson, Mors Kochanski, Ray Mears or anyone else; and I'm not trying to be an asshole.
I'm just trying help in my own little way, from a perspective of what knowledge I own and use on a regular basis.

(God I hope this sounds right and not like a smart ass'd rip-session...)
 
Mark Basford said:
Wow, I hadn't thought of that one...

The rod assembly is dead flush with the butt when completely screwed down - it was a huge pain to get it just right... but I did not think of issues of water ingress.

The pitted finish of the cable fittings probably doesn't lend itself to a super tight seal, but a thin washer might help. What do you think?

or a step futher - Polished stainless with a washer may be the way to go for fittings on serious working blade.
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It may be a non issue, or easily solved with the washer or even a oring. I really have no idea.

Since this knife is a gift, make another and test it out.

I think this guy put an oring in there and it made it water tight.(not sure though) http://goinggear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=12&products_id=21

I like the looks of the traditional Scandi though. I think you did a helluva job:thumbup:
 
I'm sorry but that's just way too nice looking!

Seriously, if I were modifying that beauty I'd add 1/2" to 1" more blade length and make the belly of the blade a bit deeper.

Great work!

DancesWithKnives
 
KEmSAT-Survival said:
(God I hope this sounds right and not like a smart ass'd rip-session...)
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I'm learning from your comments - and really appreciate them.

KEmSAT-Survival said:
I don't like to carry knives with bulbous handles made from slick materials, it makes the knife hard to control. Especially ones with no way to keep my hand from sliding up the blade if they get wet/slick.
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That seems completely valid: I've read that many folks shy away from guards as they get in the way of some survival activities. If that is true, would a super-grippy handle material with a more pronounced finger depression be sufficient? Competitive cutting competition blades are often handled with rubber that is used for horse-stall mats - most of them don't use guards either.

KEmSAT-Survival said:
ever tried to unscrew something when you can't feel your fingers or when they're wet/cold?
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I used to work at an Ice making plant, so I know exactly what you mean...Not to sound defensive, but the lanyard hole makes untwisting easier either by using a lanyard or if you are not into lanyards, a small twig.

How about the blade length? Is 3.5" long enough for a heavy-use bushcrafter?
 
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I think it is perfectly executed for a camper/hiker knife. Even a casual woodsloafing knife.

I also like the Ferrocium rod as a back up. I think it is a well thought out classy knife.

If you were going for a dedicated survival knife I think you would probably want to change certain aspects of the knife materials that you used for this one. Cable damascus is not the first steel that comes to mind when most people think survival knife.

IMO it is a great looking knife that I would be proud to carry. Your BIL is one lucky individual.
 
Mark Basford said:
I'm learning from your comments - and really appreciate them.



That seems completely valid: I've read that many folks shy away from guards as they get in the way of some survival activities. If that is true, would a super-grippy handle material with a more pronounced finger depression be sufficient? Competitive cutting competition blades are often handled with rubber that is used for horse-stall mats - most of them don't use guards either.


I used to work at an Ice making plant, so I know exactly what you mean...Not to sound defensive, but the lanyard hole makes untwisting easier either by using a lanyard or if you are not into lanyards, a small twig.

How about the blade length? Is 3.5" long enough for a heavy-use bushcrafter?
Click to expand...


You don't sound defensive at all.
If the metal gets cold enough, it can contract to the point locking the threads (which is a simple fix with some body heat, provided you have the time and body heat). A twig would snap. I hadn't thought about a lanyard. Twisting it on itself until it formed a tight enough should pop it, provided the corners on the outer edge of the hole don't form pressure points and break your cord (I don't know how hard it is to unscrew, I'm just guessing...)
I'd do an experiment: stick in the freezer for a few hours and see how hard the ferro rod is to unscrew. Then try it with a cord and a stick to see how it comes out.

It depends on what you want to do with the knife. But, for all intents and purposes 3.5 is plenty. Even the SAK Trekker and the Mora's blades aren't but about 4 inches.

If that baby were VG10, or 1095 I'd carry it in a heartbeat, without a second thought...sans buttcap ferro rod (but that's just my personal preference)

The handle material you've got would be fine with some kind of pronounced depressions (I've always wondered what that material would look like with gunstock checkering in it :o).

On last question: how'd you do the tang to allow for that ferro rod?

Seems like you've thought it out very well, any 'packer would (SHOULD) be proud to have such a grand gift. :thumbup::thumbup:
 
A thin "O" ring under the cap of the rod would seal it ok, a very slight countersink where it screws into the butt will stop it being squash out to much.
Great knife.

Richard
 
KEmSAT-Survival said:
On last question: how'd you do the tang to allow for that ferro rod?
Click to expand...

here is a rough sketch:
knifesketch.jpg
 
I see...do you pin the blade in or just epoxy it? A small mosaic pin would add to the looks, plus give you added security in the retention of the blade. Then again with a design this well thought out, I'm sure you've already given that a tick...

Once you get it nailed down, you gonna start producing and selling them?

I honestly think they'd be a running success.

I like it. Very much. Can't say that I've seen anything like it. I believe I'd check to see if I could patent that design before somebody got off with it and started mass producing it on me...
 
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