Am thinking about making an 'Authentic' Kephart sheath... could use some help.

I am also noticing the colouration across the "button hole" that led me to believe is was a deeper front panel. Looks like something a former ret. strap could have made over years of use, too. That, or a belt. Maybe it was a retention strap that ripped out and Kephart made "lemonade" in adopting it as a button hole. Interesting stuff.
 
A quick couple of thoughts before I run out of lunch hour...
You can still find button slots on the sheaths of scandi knives today...
Usually on the back of the belt loop.
It wouldn't surprise me if that was a common feature on knife sheaths back then.

As for photos, just because that is the knife in the museum and his book it doesn't mean it was the only knife he used, wore or was photographed with.
An outdoor guy, like most, probably waded thru a bunch of other knives till he found 'the one'.

Looking forward to seeing how this comes along.
Best of luck!
 
Ebbtide said:
As for photos, just because that is the knife in the museum and his book it doesn't mean it was the only knife he used, wore or was photographed with.
An outdoor guy, like most, probably waded thru a bunch of other knives till he found 'the one'.
Click to expand...
True, but this is the only one designed by and marketed as the "Kephart" knife. In that respect, it is unique.
 
Not questioning the the knife shown, only random photos of Kephart with a knife :)
 
From all accounts (I have heard this from other sources) this was his primary knife - and from his books - he talked about this knife in particular.

TF
 
Here is another shot of him - wearing his knife - on his belt:

Dinner_grinder.jpg


These are the only two surviving photo's (the curator at the digital archives tells me)of him wearing his knife - so I am going to assume it was a belt sheath - however - I don't see a keeper either - so it is a bit of a conundrum.

TF
 
Tal... I don't see a belt passing through the sheath. Perhaps if the loop folded over the back panel but I don't think this is the case. Maybe he had a button on his belt? lol. A shot of the backside of the sheath would answer many questions.
 
Rick - here that shot is blown up. I think I see a small belt around his waist - I have outlined it and the bulging of the sheath in the second shot.

I may be wrong though.

Dinner_grinderblownup.jpg



Dinner_grinder.jpg



TF
 
Here is the quote about his sheath in the book "Camping and Woodcraft":

"...The sheath being flimsy, and the buttoned band a nuisance, I made one of good leather that binds well up on the handle and is fastened together with copper rivets besides the sewing."

So - that explains what the rivets were made of - but what does he mean by "binds well up on the handle"? Does that mean it is a deep pouch style sheath - if so - why does the knife in the picture have the WHOLE handle - or most of it sticking out of the sheath?

What if, this sheath is the FIRST sheath he is mentioning. The flimsy one that he replaced? It would explain the hole (hell, he may have torn it off - as it was a nuisance) in the back of the sheath - and it looking so thin.

Man - this doesn't get any easier.

(The book quote is from the 1917 copyright.)
 
I did a bit of Photoshoppng too and yes there is a narrow (1-1/1/4" or so) belt in that image, but it doesn't appear to run through slots, but rather behind the "loop" at the very top of the "loop" (you've got the belt hi-lited in the wrong spot - it's just above that area you marked and the bulge is a dark spot just below the belt.)

Maybe he did have a button on the belt as Rick mentioned - curiouser and curiouser....

as for well bound IMO it just means tight around the handle not necessarily high and with the shape of the "bolster" area that inch or so covered would offer good if maybe not excellent retention.

kephart.jpg
 
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Just a thought: You could pass the top of the sheath up beneath a belt, & then button it to a button sewn above the line of a belt.
It would be secure & would not flap around much.

Also, the inverted teardrop hole in the sheath looks like a well used button hole.
The two photos show the knife worn on both the left & right: one could assume he didn't do the same thing all the time.

I know nothing of Kephart, & am speculating.
 
Chuck,

I see it now - great eyes - and thank you for your work. I think your observations are right on - and given the fairly large bolster on this knife - I can see how the retention would not only be excellent but would allow for easy removal and replacement.

I trust artists like yourself and others on this board, as you have forgotten more about older sheaths than I will every know. I cherish your wisdom in this effort - and think we are putting together some good theories on what I hope, turns out to be a fun project.

TF
 
I have been really enjoying this thread! And learned quite a bit as well. :)

Glad those rivets are indeed copper as the brass ones are a bear to find. Pre warning about those thinner stock rivets and burrs, they're very easy to muck up. Not forgiving at all. :p Patience and slow going is the key.
 
leatherman said:
I have been really enjoying this thread! And learned quite a bit as well. :)

Glad those rivets are indeed copper as the brass ones are a bear to find. Pre warning about those thinner stock rivets and burrs, they're very easy to muck up. Not forgiving at all. :p Patience and slow going is the key.
Click to expand...

Weaver Leather used to carry the brass ones and some of the Civil War Sutlers usually carry them.
And yep the size 14 can be a real bear to keep from bending INSIDE the leather - especially when using a bit softer hand veg tan like W & C. Had so much trouble I finally went to using mostly #12's (I can get them locally and have thought about getting some #13's, but they are harder to find) except for those who want an exact repro. A LITTLE drop of super glue in the hole and let dry first helped a lot and if done right you won't have the same problems or at least not as much. The other option is to use a harder hand leather like Herman Oak or RJF or have W & C plate your order first which they will do free of charge.
 
leatherman said:
I Pre warning about those thinner stock rivets and burrs, they're very easy to muck up. Not forgiving at all. :p Patience and slow going is the key.
Click to expand...
Yes. I don't like the setters that are commonly sold for these rivets. They tend to be designed to peen the head all in one shot. That puts a lot of force through the post and risks deformation inside the leather. It does help to have a tight fit for the post and I like Chuck's suggestion of CA glue for that reason as well as a leather sealant to protect against oxidation acids. I peen in increments and shape the head slowly. The look I prefer happens to be a stippled peen pattern but you could finish it flat or domed, just as easily. The key is to do is slowly... the one-punch-wonder is asking for trouble.
 
I have that setter set, Chuck and use them. I just finish with the stippled peen look afterward.:thumbup:
 
Thanks for the link Chuck! :)

Leatherworker dot net is a fantastic resource, I need to do more than just lurk there once in a while. :o
 
The hole in the back of the sheath looks like it was used with a button to secure it to a shirt or pants.
 
Talfuchre said:
From all accounts (I have heard this from other sources) this was his primary knife - and from his books - he talked about this knife in particular.

TF
Click to expand...

I realize that :)

I blew up the latest photo and it is just too soft (& the file size is too small) to see anything definitive...

Good luck in your quest!
 
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