An All-Around Axe

How much experience do you have using a rafting axe, Ernest? Currently my primary splitter is an old Plumb rafting axe and I can assure you it performs admirably at this task as well as at felling and bucking. It's the farthest thing from a carpenters hatchet but it surely has its place in a striking tool set. To the average Joe it's far more useful than some oddball specialty carpenters hatchet.
 
Splitting axe and maul are two very different tools. Any axe of reasonable weight or in skilled hands can be use as a splitting axe given the right technique+edge geometry being suited by means of a little fattening. Although even a thin bitted cutting axe can split, again given the right technique and not overly tough wood.

The idea of the "all round" axe is subject to a lot of interpretation and contextual dependencies. An axe in combination with a chainsaw, performing "all round" firewood duties, will be different from an "all round" axe that a bushman would take into the woods to cut (not just split) firewood, carve tool handles, utensils, traps, etc. A settled man who would take only one axe would be still different. Even a crosscut saw in combination with an axe would surely yield different ideal traits compared to paring one with a chainsaw. Very complicated matter.
 
I think an argument can be made that any axe between 1 1/2 pounds and 4 pounds would suffice for 90% of any typical axe work around a homestead, however any one axe would be ideal for less than 50% of the typical jobs.
 
The difficulties in pinning it down, acknowledging things like context and relativity, are just what make it worth, well, pinning down. Also being offended at differing points of view, smug and overly generalized summations really tend to put a damper on it, leading more to perpetual ignorance. Maybe my emphatic insistences do the same, still I would invite constructive alternative counter-points as the normal part of any exchange because I'm not always so interested in having my back slapped by those looking more for self-validation of an untenable stand than they are information.
SP, I think you misunderstand what I was writing about carpentry axes which was, they would be just the opposite from an all-round axe and can be ruled out of the topic, which is not to say the topic of using the axe for carpentry purposes can too, unless, that is, you are making another more pointed critique about the possession and use of specialized axes with narrow applications.

E.DB.
 
As an addition to this topic does anyone know of a packable axe that is useful for both chopping and splitting. On my hiking trips I've tried a few hatchets but I've found I spend more time trying to pull them out of logs than actually using them, so at this point I'm pretty much using a large knife for splitting purposes whilst hiking and a saw for cutting cross-grain.
 
another good chopper that has a tempered striking poll is the aberl garnisch made "Bavarian felling axe" available in the US from Garrett wade. it is on a curved handle, whereas I would certainly prefer straight, but it is a very good user. I have managed to use it for nearly everything, even a bit of hewing.
 
This question is very difficult which is the reason for my somewhat flippant answers previously, but I have been thinking more about this.

I've gone to a lot of estate sales and auctions at old homesteads here over several years looking for old axes and other useful things. Most axes in this area were 3 to 3 1/2 pounds, single bit and double bits about equal in number. Mostly Michigan pattern 32-36" here with Daytons a heavy presence in SB axes as well. I would estimate less then 20% were anything else, but those included boys axes, DB cruisers, hatchets, and broad axes. So in a time of heavy wood harvesting for building and firewood, most of the local pioneers here considered this size ideal. But if you wanted just one axe, and did a lot of hiking and camping and didn't heat your home with wood, then this size today would be not the best choice.

Presently, people should ask themselves what they plan on using the axe for. For camping or recreational all-around axe use, a lighter axe would be better for most people. A boys axe 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 pounds about 26" give or take would be what I would recommend to someone new to axes. That size can do occaisional heavy work like clearing a downed tree out of a driveway as well as camp firewood, rustic furniture making, or just about anything. If that person enjoys axe use, then it's a vast axe world.
 
Moses2792796 said:
On my hiking trips I've tried a few hatchets but I've found I spend more time trying to pull them out of logs than actually using them, so at this point I'm pretty much using a large knife for splitting purposes whilst hiking and a saw for cutting cross-grain.
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Thin-cheeked and flat-cheeked hatchets or axes tend to stick in the wood. An axe with convex cheeks (high centerline) releases much more easily.
 
See, such a description is more universal and clear, even though not quite objective, and makes more sense to me in reasoning out the question. The attempt at a description of the characteristics of versatility, i.e., is a straight cutting edge versatile? No.
Square_peg said:
Thin-cheeked and flat-cheeked hatchets or axes...
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The fiskars axes are the only hardened poll axes I know of, other than the Les Stroud bushman axe by Wetterlings.
They make several sizes with a combination head, where the cheeks flare out toward the handle, so it can be used for chopping and splitting. I had one and it worked rather well.
Looks like the new x line changed the design of the head a bit, it looks like it's a straight flare, rather than curved now. Mine was stolen years ago so I can't really remember.
 
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This old woodsman will chime in.. Double Bit! All the way. I agree with the idea of carving a wooden wedge -- you can always make more of those, and it's much more painful to replace a good axe. I'm sure woodsmen in the old days did much the same, if they needed to split something which was too difficult with the axe alone, they took that double bit and carved themselves some wedges. Much the same with a knife -- carve a wedge, make a club...drive the wedge :-).

My father's idea of punishment when I was a kid -- a good sound whoopin', or go to the woodpile and split wood all day.
 
bored2deth said:
My father's idea of punishment when I was a kid -- a good sound whoopin', or go to the woodpile and split wood all day.
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Splitting wood all day... ah, what a wonderful day that would be. As long as I remember to pace myself, I'd be chuckling about getting out of a punishment :)
Of course, I'm just odd. If given the choice between splitting wood all day and a number of other things that most people would consider enjoyable to do, I'd choose splitting wood. For instance, (this just popped into my head randomly) if someone offered me a free trip to New York city, or a good ax and a big pile of wood, there would be no question as to what I'd choose.
 
A single-bit 3-1/2 lb. Jersey axe with phantom bevels on a 32" handle

1. single bit--has a longer bit which can give better felling penetration, a thicker poll for better splitting, a longer bit which aids with the splitting with a twist, and a hammer poll which can be used for driving wood wedges or pegs

2. 3-1/2 lb. best all-round weight for doing all things and can be balanced on a handle that is shorter than 36". I would not want to use a 36" handle for limbing, hewing, or shaping.

3. Jersey-this design has ears for a better grip of the head to the handle, and handle protection for splitting, has a flatter blade for hewing

4. phantom bevels - less sticking in felling or splitting and offsets the tendency of a flat Jersey to stick

5. 32" handle - better length for all-round usage for shaping, limbing, felling, splitting (use a chopping block), and balances well with a 3-1/2 lb. head. You seldom see competitors using an axe that has a longer than 32" handle because the mechanical advantage is offset by less precision. In my mind the only reason for using a 36" handle is if you don't use a chopping block for splitting and if you are felling large diameter trees and need to save your knuckles (but those trees are for crosscut saws). 36" is fine for a maul where less precision is traded for brute impact--but not for an all-round axe.
 
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thunderstick said:
A single-bit 3-1/2 lb. Jersey axe with phantom bevels on a 32" handle

1. single bit--has a longer bit which can give better felling penetration, a thicker poll for better splitting, a longer bit which aids with the splitting with a twist, and a hammer poll which can be used for driving wood wedges or pegs

2. 3-1/2 lb. best all-round weight for doing all things and can be balanced on a handle that is shorter than 36". I would not want to use a 36" handle for limbing, hewing, or shaping.

3. Jersey-this design has ears for a better grip of the head to the handle, and handle protection for splitting, has a flatter blade for hewing

4. phantom bevels - less sticking in felling or splitting and offsets the tendency of a flat Jersey to stick

5. 32" handle - better length for all-round usage for shaping, limbing, felling, splitting (use a chopping block), and balances well with a 3-1/2 lb. head. You seldom see competitors using an axe that has a longer than 32" handle because the mechanical advantage is offset by less precision. In my mind the only reason for using a 36" handle is if you don't use a chopping block for splitting and if you are felling large diameter trees and need to save your knuckles (but those trees are for crosscut saws). 36" is fine for a maul where less precision is traded for brute impact--but not for an all-round axe.
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If you are looking for a full size "all around" axe, in my experience those are sound points. Except that I find my Connie's to be better choppers and splitters, and more secure to the handle than any Jersey I've had.
 
Not sure what you mean by a "connie" --conventional??? As for attaching the handle--in addition to the proper fitting and wedging, I epoxy the center wedge in and apply epoxy to the handle and eye--so getting loose has not been an issue for me. When I fit the handle I like the ears to shave a little wood going in to get the advantage of the extra grip and side to side strength. I had to replace one of my jobs due to handle breakage when my son was using it and I simply drilled it out and then removed the excess epoxy with an old 1/4' wood chisel. A light coating of expoxy or gorialla glue is the way to go--it works well as lube to get a tight fit and the center wedge will go in deeper. You just can't install the cross wedge until the glue sets up or you risk sinking the center wedge a bit lower at that spot.
 
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