An Arete In A Frozen Rain Forest

Comprehensivist said:
That's it Brian, I am selling some knives to buy better camera lenses. Your Ultra HD 4K pictures always blow me away with the clarity and lighting. You always bring out the best in your subjects.

I too am a big fan of the Arête. It is more svelte feeling than my favorite Bushcrafter, but just as capable. It is sort of like a scaled up Hiking Buddy which is a good thing in my eyes.

Phil
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LOL, lenses can definitely get expensive. One of the lenses these photos were shot with was about 1.1K. And thank you sir, I appreciate the compliments!

It is very much like a scaled up Hiking Buddy, and a good thing to my eyes as well. I am definitely enjoying using it in the field lately.


Onedog said:
Brian, as always, your pictures are just amazing! I always look forward to viewing your threads. I'm also a big fan of the Arete. I have 2 that I carry often. Both are 1/8". One in Leopardwood with a tapered tang and the other in Tangerine Shadetree that's SFT. Both get a good amount of use especially on my longer day hikes. I prefer it over the BC because it's slightly pointier and has a somewhat narrower blade profile. I really want one with a scandi grind. It's a great all around knife. Thanks again for another awesome post. :thumbup:
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Thank you, I am glad you enjoy the posts! Having put a KE Bushie is SFT 1/8 through the wringer when I was in Michigan I can see why a lot of people like the thinner blades. I just tend to gravitate toward the thicker blades because I think I am harder on my blades over time than a lot of people. Some knives I pick up with the intentions of using them for skills instruction, those get used really hard at times. But even if workshops aren't figured into it, I often end up doing impromptu wet conditions fire starting lessons for tourists camping on local trails. So I like my blades a little more on the hefty side for hard use.


M4Super90 said:
Great pics, as always, Brian. Thanks for sharing.
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Thank you sir, very glad you enjoyed the post!


xxkcxx said:
Is there a way to get those sheaths???
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I haven't asked yet, but I certainly hope so. I have a couple of knives I'd like them for, but for now I just swap out.


crazyfingers said:
Hey Mistwalker where can I get one of those burlap fire steels in oreo burlap?
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Phil beat me to it, but I have gotten several custom ferro rods from Blaine and love them.

http://suffolkmetalworks.com/
 
I'm curious and perhaps I'm overthinking this. I get the advantages of a shorter blade height, especially when I visualize (or in fact do) say peel an apple. Its hard to keep the edge on the roundish shape if the blade is too tall. In thinking about the Arete vs the Bushcrafter, it seems it was part of the original design goal, to improve slicing, food prep-ability. To, aren't campers and backpackers always thinking of ways to reduce weight? A minor point perhaps, but a lighter knife that does the same work is a plus?

When going from the Bushcrafter to the Arete, the blades are essentially the same length. The stock could be the same, say 1/8 or 5/32. But the height is different 1.1 for the Arete and 1.25 for the Bushcrafter. "All things being equal" (length and stock thickness), doesn't this 12% shorter blade height for the Arete makes it a stiffer blade? Doesn't it gain some advantage for those camp chores that involving twisting and prying? To though, staying with the same stock thickness, then that shorter blade means more metal behind the edge for the shorter bladed Arete, working against slicing ability?

Was there a sweet spot in the design of the Arete, where because it has a shorter blade height, one could go to thinner stock and not lose in blade stiffness for camp chores and not lose in above/behind the edge thickness for slicing ability as well as gain in the ability to skin an apple and carry less weight?

Am I being too theoretical?
 
Awesome pictures - thanks for the great post and read.

Nice curls, too! Mors would approve I am sure.

best

mqqn
 
great photos as usual. I have drooled long enough over Fiddlebacks.... I think its about time i get one. thanks for sharing.
 
TomR2 said:
I'm curious and perhaps I'm overthinking this. I get the advantages of a shorter blade height, especially when I visualize (or in fact do) say peel an apple. Its hard to keep the edge on the roundish shape if the blade is too tall. In thinking about the Arete vs the Bushcrafter, it seems it was part of the original design goal, to improve slicing, food prep-ability. To, aren't campers and backpackers always thinking of ways to reduce weight? A minor point perhaps, but a lighter knife that does the same work is a plus?

When going from the Bushcrafter to the Arete, the blades are essentially the same length. The stock could be the same, say 1/8 or 5/32. But the height is different 1.1 for the Arete and 1.25 for the Bushcrafter. "All things being equal" (length and stock thickness), doesn't this 12% shorter blade height for the Arete makes it a stiffer blade? Doesn't it gain some advantage for those camp chores that involving twisting and prying? To though, staying with the same stock thickness, then that shorter blade means more metal behind the edge for the shorter bladed Arete, working against slicing ability?

Was there a sweet spot in the design of the Arete, where because it has a shorter blade height, one could go to thinner stock and not lose in blade stiffness for camp chores and not lose in above/behind the edge thickness for slicing ability as well as gain in the ability to skin an apple and carry less weight?

Am I being too theoretical?
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I prefer the narrower height blade for the ability to have a keener point and some belly while still having a longer flat on the edge between handle and belly. The finer point works better for me in notching and boring, as well as in penetration. The taller blade of the BC is stronger laterally and vertically for batonning. The taller blade can be given the same grind as a narrower blade for good slicing ability, while still having more steel left at the spine for more durability in rough use. All designs are a series of trade offs, it's all in one's priorities and primary uses. I like them all, but tend to use a finer point more. I tend to have a heavier tool of some sort on me anyway for any work that could be abusive to the design of a finer knife or beyond reasonable expectations of that design.

mqqn said:
Awesome pictures - thanks for the great post and read.

Nice curls, too! Mors would approve I am sure.

best

mqqn
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Thank you sir, glad you enjoyed the post. Yes, I've had quite a bit of experience at making curls :)


tman038 said:
great photos as usual. I have drooled long enough over Fiddlebacks.... I think its about time i get one. thanks for sharing.
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Thanks T, sounds like something I said myself once, some years ago :)
 
TomR2 said:
I'm curious and perhaps I'm overthinking this. I get the advantages of a shorter blade height, especially when I visualize (or in fact do) say peel an apple. Its hard to keep the edge on the roundish shape if the blade is too tall. In thinking about the Arete vs the Bushcrafter, it seems it was part of the original design goal, to improve slicing, food prep-ability. To, aren't campers and backpackers always thinking of ways to reduce weight? A minor point perhaps, but a lighter knife that does the same work is a plus?

When going from the Bushcrafter to the Arete, the blades are essentially the same length. The stock could be the same, say 1/8 or 5/32. But the height is different 1.1 for the Arete and 1.25 for the Bushcrafter. "All things being equal" (length and stock thickness), doesn't this 12% shorter blade height for the Arete makes it a stiffer blade? Doesn't it gain some advantage for those camp chores that involving twisting and prying? To though, staying with the same stock thickness, then that shorter blade means more metal behind the edge for the shorter bladed Arete, working against slicing ability?

Was there a sweet spot in the design of the Arete, where because it has a shorter blade height, one could go to thinner stock and not lose in blade stiffness for camp chores and not lose in above/behind the edge thickness for slicing ability as well as gain in the ability to skin an apple and carry less weight?

Am I being too theoretical?
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I think there are a lot of things you are asking about blade geometry that may not be able to be answered here very well. But - I am going to give it a whack.

When you compare the BC to the Arete I think it is best to remember that just because both have a convex edge - it does not mean they have the same geometry. All good knife makers, Andy included, adjust their geometry to the tool, stock thickness, and task at hand. This means that with thinner stock, if the desired effect was to have a more robust edge - the grind would be thicker at the edge than if you wanted it for slicing work only.

As an example - compare an Arete in convex and an arete in Scandi. (This example is one of extremes - but will serve the point). You could have the thinnest convex grind (a near full height flat grind with a slight convex at the edge) and the shallowest Scandi grind with the most accute angle. This would show the difference in grind with the same stock.

So, given all of that - I don't think Andy grinds an Arete the same he does a BC because the blade heights are different. I think that he will take a little more off the Arete and allow it slice as easily as the BC without having the stock height behind it. In short, a Convex is not a straight line and so thinking of it as such can be erroneous.

With ALL of that said - if ALL else were equal and you were doing a full flat grind to the spine of the blade two blades with differing stock height would have differing angles. This means that your thoughts are headed in the right direction but may not apply here.

On a differing topic - let's talk about blade shape for a second.

Take the Ray Mears -Woodlore. Compare it to the Arete and then the Bushcrafter.

You see an evolving shape that has very different purposes. THe Woodlore is made primarily for wood carving and processing and would be pressed into service as a skinner or slicer (especially at 4 mill thick).

The Buscrafter is a slicer and has the belly to do the skinning - but would have to be pressed into service for much detailed wood carving.

The Arete is an attempt to be a compromise type of knife. A little belly - but not much. A spear point - but not too acute good at wood carving and slicing and can be used at skinning.

The Arete was my attempt at a knife that fit my needs in the woods. Basic wood processing, camp chores, slicing, and can be used to skin if needed.

In that, however, it is a lot like a Kephart type design. A compromise knife that is good at many things but not specialized to any.

I hope that helps for my thoughts on the process and I welcome anyone to tell me how wrong I really am. ;)


Jason
 
Jason, Very nice! I was feeling a little sheepish about my meandering question. You sorted it nicely. Tom
 
inlikeflynt56 said:
Great job as usual Mist. I really like my Arete.
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Thanks man, I'm really liking this one too. I love the emerald burlap also. It goes well with the emerald carbon fiber inlay on the new band Lisa got me for Valentines, our tenth as a married couple :)

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Sweet ring where can I get one in Oreo? Who made that for you Mist Id be real grateful for any info.

mistwalker said:
Thanks man, I'm really liking this one too. I love the emerald burlap also. It goes well with the emerald carbon fiber inlay on the new band Lisa got me for Valentines, our tenth as a married couple :)

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