An easy kit knife to start with?

M

manbeast54

Joined
Aug 22, 2008
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Hey guys, this is my first post here so be gentle :)

I want to try to make a folding knife using a basic kit, preferably styled like this. The skill rating is Level III though, and from what I understand is too hard for me :( It seems all of the classic looking knives are a little more involved than I would like for my first try. Can anyone recommend an easy, classic knife kit? Thanks in advance :)

Also, forgive me if this is not the right place for this post
 
Not knowing anything about your mechanical and shop skills, it is hard to suggest something, but here are some ideas and advise.

Don't get G-10 handles for any kits - they have problems that you are not ready to deal with yet.
Don't be too intimidated by skill levels, but the higher the skill level, the more equipment and experience it usually requires.
When starting, use kits that have screws. This is the best place to start.
Some suggestions would be :
The 605 and 605 mini (605-M). Great kits and easy to build. (Jantz, K&G,etc.)
The GX6 - great look and an easy build. (knifekits and others)
The DDR-BL3 - hefty and a tough worker. Can be converted to auto by adding a $4 coil spring. (Knifekits)
Check out the many great kits and supplies at Darren Ralph's site - KNIFE KITS
http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/index.php

I make a lot of highly embellished knife kits and they sell well. I can make the liners and blade blanks myself (and do when i need to) but when the finished product is mostly due to the work done in handles, modification, and filework....a kit provides a great foundation, and saves time. I sometimes use a GX6 frame and make a mosaic damascus blade for it, mokume bolsters, MOP scales, diamonds or gemstones, etc. It ends up being 80% custom with kit knife liners.

Take your time. Have fun. Be proud of what you accomplished.
Get a good set of torx drivers from a knife supplier(about $10).
Handles are where most of a kit's work is. Start simple and work up to hard.
GO SLOW Rome ( or a kit knife) wasn't built in a day....but a kit can be ruined in only seconds by trying to force parts,or speed up a slow task (like hand sanding).
Peening rivets is where there are problems for newer kit makers.This is why screws are easier to deal with. Plus, with screws you can take apart the knife or remove the scales as needed while building it. I would recommend an extra screw kit ( usually about $5-7 when you order the kit) on the first one. Screws get lost, cross threaded, or the threads get loose by continued in-out assembly.
Wood scales are easy to start with. Jigged bone is a good starter ,too ( easy to hide mistakes when it already is full of gouges). Drilling the holes and fitting the scales to the bolster are the trick. There are two ways to approach this.
One is to drill the holes in the scale material and then trim the scale to fit the liner and bolsters. Some find this the easier way. Others trim the scale to fit the bolsters,carefully mark the holes , and drill them last. This is what I do. A dremmel or similar tool is very useful in kit knife construction. variable speed is a real plus on these tools.

Have fun and email me if you run into a problem.

And....Welcome to the forums.
Stacy
 
Last year we bought a kit knife from that vendor for every boy that attended summercamp that year. They each had to assemble the knife themselves and they could take it home afterwards.

It was a massive success. We used the kits in skill level 1. They're basically screw together kits and quite easy. Within 20 minutes you'll have it assembled. The resulting knives are quite decent. (not good but not bad either and since they're cheap it's quite good value).

If all you want to do is do some screwing...get the level I kits. If you want to try something more difficult get a higher rating. Personally I'd suggest getting 1 from different levels, that way you could work yourself up.
 
Why not use kits with G10 handles? G10 is completely stable, usually awfully flat, cheap to replace if you screw up and very easy to machine. You need to take respiratory precautions, but we're doing that with all of our knives, right?
 
I think I might pick up a DDR3-BL for myself complete with coil spring. Classic knives are nice and all, but switchblades are always fun ;) I would like to bring this project to my boy scout troop, but I'm not sure if the other kids (or their parents) would want to spend that much for a knife. I sure will though, especially one I (kinda) made.
 
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Actually the cheaper ones aren't bad either. And when we ordered for our camp we got a HUGE discount. (30% or something) from them because it was for scouting. I'd say give them a call and talk to them about ordering a batch.
 
The G-10 scales for some kits are a somewhat poor fit, and often require lowering the bolsters (due to the thickness of the G-10 being a little lower than the bolster.) This requires re-drilling the screw seats and pivot seats. Also G-10 requires good dust removal and care when sanding. Every dip and bad sanding spot shows up as a change in the pattern on G-10,too. Overall I find G-10 a PITA for folders.

manbeast54....keep the automatic knives ( Please - don't call them switchblades- there is enough problems with the press knifemakers get) out of the Boy Scout meetings. They are illegal to carry in most states, and totally banned by the BSA. Also, be aware that he DDR-BL3 is larger in blade size than some states are allowing now.

Proper use, care, handling, and collecting of knives will help the non-knife community learn about the variety of knives and the heights that they can achieve in artistic form. Taking them where they are banned and getting caught (which you almost surely will) just leads to a newspaper article stating that all pocket knives are bad and knife collectors are thugs. Next thing a local legislator ,looking for some press, submits a bill that bans all pocket knives. This happens about monthly now days.

However, work your way up to Eagle Scout, become a responsible role model for other boys, gain some knife making proficiency, and in a couple of years hold a class on knife making of a simple kit knife, where each boy makes one......now that might get some good press.

For the time being:
Make a regular kit knife to take to the troop meetings and show off. The 605-mini (not really a mini, just smaller than the full size 605) is the best pocket knife kit I have ever found . They now offer it in two blade types, too, IIRC. Plain and Serrated. About $35, plus the handle material. If you are just looking to slap one together, it will get you there as fast as any kit I know. If you are looking to personalize one, It provides a great platform for embellishment. After getting you feet wet on a screw kit, try a lock back with pinned frame kit. Be prepared to give up drugs and alcohol....since this new addiction will suck up all your extra money and time.

Have fun and always remember....you are a representative of the group you belong to ( be it Troop 123, or the knife community). Represent it in a way that shows it at its best at all times.

Stacy Apelt
Eagle Scout 1962
 
I'll remember to call them automatic knives and believe me, I know they are banned by the BSA. I believe 6 inches is the legal length for a blade in Pennsylvania, but please correct me if I'm wrong. Actually, I am 2 merit badges and a service project away from being an Eagle Scout. Well, 2 merit badges, a service project and an Eagle Committee meeting from being an Eagle Scout. I have no idea what I'm going to do for the service project but I better come up with something soon.
 
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