Analysis of the 5 hour O-1

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**Notice: this thread is an analysis of a test piece that was taken to the extreme, it is not a recommendation or endorsement for soaking any longer than the standard recommended times**

Phillip Patton was good enough to send his pieces of O-1, which he soaked for 5 hours to see if Kevin Cashen was just messing with folks or not:D (which I really enjoyed and commended him for). I must stress once again that I am not in any way advocating soaking O1 for this outrageous amount of time but it was great to prove the point that grain growth is only an issue if you lack control of the temperature, but with that control, time becomes our friend. Since I have not microscopically examined any steel that has been cooked for this long, I jumped at the chance to compare and gather information for my research. My metallurgical polishing equipment is still limited and I have repolished the pieces a few times and have decided that we will just have to live with the scratches.

Rockwell hardness of the steel was an average of 64.5 to 65 HRC, I rebroke a piece to get some fresh ends to look at and with a notch it still took some effort with a 3lb cross peen to break it, no less than the pieces I often break after a standard soak. I have included an image of that fractured end to give an idea of the grain. It is hard to tell from a photo but this steel was very fine grained that any knifemaker should be happy to have in his blades.
5hfract.jpg


Cross sections of the piece where mounted and polished beyond a 2000X finish by hand ending at 8000X. and then etched in a 5% nital solution.
samps.jpg

I did several etches to bring out various features. A quicker and lighter etch would highlight the martensite much better and reveal superfine black structures I believe could be some sort of carbide, but it would also show the larger residual carbides with less contrast. Etching can cause large enough differences to cause one to misread the results. I had originally questioned whether the steel had fell short of complete hardness or had been tempered because of my initial hasty polishing and etching jobs. It made the martensite look more granular and globby instead of plate or needle like.

This martensite is actually very solid and plate like. Here it is at 400X after a light etch:
5hmar1.jpg

Here it is after etching to bring out a stronger contrast and show the residual carbide at 1000X:
5hcarb2.jpg

And here is a comparison of Mr. Patton’s 5 hour O-1 and some of my 10 minute soaked O-1:
comp.jpg


When one takes into consideration that any differences may be from polishing and etching as well as my messing with the scale a bit when I crop the images, the similarities become more striking. If the carbide size in the 5 hour is not from any snafu in my cropping, it could be the condition of the prior heat treatment before the soak. While there were still loads of carbides left there (making grain growth very unlikely) they were overall lower in number and more widely spaced compared to the 10 minute soak. Also if one looks at the general coarseness/fineness of the martensite it is plain to see that there is little difference between the two.

I have no way of knowing what the grain size was before the soak so to say that zero grain growth occurred would be impossible, but when one considers that these images are 4 times that magnification that grains a traditionally measured at, and still look very fine, the outcome is pretty darned good. If there was grain growth then Mr. Patton had the initial grain size incredibly small to have this be larger in comparison.

Although I , or Mr. Patton I am sure, would never soak a blade this long, I see no problems from carbide issues or grain size with this piece, but…

Now for the down side of soaking too long… DECARB. Mr. Patton said that he enclosed this piece in foil with a bit of tissue to avoid these problems and he did forge on it before hand, so I would be willing to say that much of the decarburized metal occurred in forging (definitely the complete layer of oxide did), but I have done metallography for folks who have been very careful to pack the steel in foil with carbon bearing materials, only to see those white colored flecks appear at the edges anyhow.

Here are some images of the edges and corners.
decarb400x.jpg

decarb400x2.jpg


The very outer edge has heavily defined and dark boundaries between the white ferritic grains, this in my opinion is heavy oxidation, the same thing happens when steel is burned (uncontrolled, runaway oxidation) the process attacks the grain boundaries more heavily and eats them away until there is weak patchwork left with not much holding it together. As we look deeper, the white grains become more a solid field of ferrite until dissipating into the martensitic body of the steel.

Notice how the corner has a deeper zone of decarb? At a corner the penetration can combine from the two directions to accumulate, now apply this to a knife edge and ask yourself how much material you would like to remove from a forging to get to that good martensite! Most folks think 2 dimensionally about this and polish down either edge bevel and call it good, a wise smith would also leave meat to remove on the very edge even after heat treating unless he really did have a way to totally eliminate this problem.

In conclusion, I must predictably say that I found no real surprises here. It is much less of an “I told you so” than a comforting affirmation that the rules and principles of metallurgy do indeed still work and can allow us to predict outcomes in a very reliable fashion. Re-inventing the wheel can be fun but it is not very productive. Folks reading this that have tight control over their temperatures can soak away at reasonable times with little worry that they will get anything but great results from it. Folks who have less accurate equipment for heating will indeed need to watch the temperature so closely that time will make things quite difficult. With soaks less than 6-8 minutes I have seldom achieved complete martensite hardness with O-1.
 
Better blades through understanding of Metallurgy !! Thanks Kevin.....BTW the problems of decarburization especially the corners are also seen with carburizing . That's why I never suggest carburizing the blades - far to difficult to control.
 
Thanks, Kevin! Great info. Thanks to Phillip for running the experiment, too!

I don't know if this would be of any value to you, but when we used to polish cemented WC samples for metallography, our final polish used lathe-cut hard maple discs and 3 micron diamond paste running at about 500 rpm or so. We typically got very nice "scratch-free" surfaces for etching.
 
Cool! Thanks Kevin for doing this analysis and showing us the results.
I think I only have one question. How deep did the decarb go?
 
Phillip Patton said:
Cool! Thanks Kevin for doing this analysis and showing us the results.
I think I only have one question. How deep did the decarb go?

Phillip, I am terrible at estimating things like this so all I can do is use a metric microsope scale I have and take a stab at a conversion. The number I come up with (could be wrong) is just under .004" thick.
 
fitzo said:
Thanks, Kevin! Great info. Thanks to Phillip for running the experiment, too!

I don't know if this would be of any value to you, but when we used to polish cemented WC samples for metallography, our final polish used lathe-cut hard maple discs and 3 micron diamond paste running at about 500 rpm or so. We typically got very nice "scratch-free" surfaces for etching.

Tha actually is helpful, I was going to get some diamond compounds and was looking at felt, but the maple sounds like a sturdier surface.
 
This may expose my ignorance, but its worth it for an explaination:

How do these results translate for a blade with a typical HT-ground geometry. That is, are the thinner sections more affected by the extended soaks in terms of grain growth, decarb, etc? I am assuming an even environment like an oven. Surely the whole blade is the same tempt, but how does the cross section of the piece factor in, if at all?

This weekend I got to play with the new oven for an extended period. The first blade I did, I thought my oven was off, as it failed the tests I normally perform after HT. It was not until I ground into the edge some that I hit screaming hard metal. I almost re-heat treated a blade that later that afternoon chopped a 2x6 twice and still popped hairs.

I am now assuming that what I am now seeing is a result of far greater decarb in the oven environment than I had in my forge, plus my prior inability to soak for 20 minutes in a propane forge. Time to invest in decarb from brownells!
 
TikTock said:
This may expose my ignorance, but its worth it for an explaination:

How do these results translate for a blade with a typical HT-ground geometry. That is, are the thinner sections more affected by the extended soaks in terms of grain growth, decarb, etc? I am assuming an even environment like an oven. Surely the whole blade is the same tempt, but how does the cross section of the piece factor in, if at all?

This weekend I got to play with the new oven for an extended period. The first blade I did, I thought my oven was off, as it failed the tests I normally perform after HT. It was not until I ground into the edge some that I hit screaming hard metal. I almost re-heat treated a blade that later that afternoon chopped a 2x6 twice and still popped hairs.

I am now assuming that what I am now seeing is a result of far greater decarb in the oven environment than I had in my forge, plus my prior inability to soak for 20 minutes in a propane forge. Time to invest in decarb from brownells!


I think the main problem with thinner parts is decarb, but there are ways around this. Since becoming convinced about soaking, I've re-heat treated some blades I had made before, but not put handles on yet. (Which now perform much better, BTW.) To prevent decarb, I wrapped them in kleenex and put them in a foil envelope in such a way that the tang stuck out. After the time was up, I pulled the blade out and quenched. The foil stayed in the oven. After quenching, I tested with the file and not only did the file not bite, but the edge (which had already been sharpened) chipped. Thus, no (or not much) decarb.
Hope this helps,
 
Kevin R. Cashen said:
Phillip, I am terrible at estimating things like this so all I can do is use a metric microsope scale I have and take a stab at a conversion. The number I come up with (could be wrong) is just under .004" thick.

That's close enough, thanks. I was just wondering if it was something like 1/16". :)
 
Kevin, it's great to finally actually see edge packing in a photo!:D :D :D
I just wonder if someone could try case hardening now to "treat" the de-carbed area? Probably easier and better to abrasively remove the area, because .004 isn't much.
 
Phillip Patton said:
I think the main problem with thinner parts is decarb, but there are ways around this. Since becoming convinced about soaking, I've re-heat treated some blades I had made before, but not put handles on yet. (Which now perform much better, BTW.) To prevent decarb, I wrapped them in kleenex and put them in a foil envelope in such a way that the tang stuck out. After the time was up, I pulled the blade out and quenched. The foil stayed in the oven. After quenching, I tested with the file and not only did the file not bite, but the edge (which had already been sharpened) chipped. Thus, no (or not much) decarb.
Hope this helps,

I assume you mean stainless foil? Is there anything like that available at a common source? I'd like to test but dont want to buy a big roll.

Decarb has really just never been an issue for me. If you keep your blades the correct thickness pre-ht, you should be grinidng way through the decarb anyways. One does need to remember to take a layer off the edge, too, though.
 
I've used stainless and copper foil. The copper works fine at temperatures like the simpler carbon steels use. But the stainless can be reused more times.
You're right about decarb not mattering if you leave extra on, but one benefit to grinding it thinner and preventing decarb is that hardened steel is pretty rough on belts. :)
 
TikTock said:
This may expose my ignorance, but its worth it for an explaination:

How do these results translate for a blade with a typical HT-ground geometry. That is, are the thinner sections more affected by the extended soaks in terms of grain growth, decarb, etc? I am assuming an even environment like an oven. Surely the whole blade is the same tempt, but how does the cross section of the piece factor in, if at all?

The thinner sections will be much more heavily influenced by the decarb factor than the soaking. Ovens are pretty even but proximity to the heating elements can cause variations. Also still air is a pretty good insulator so it takes a bit longer for things to heat up in an oven and the thinner sections will infact come to temp quicker. But equalizing temperature is but a fraction of the prupose for a proper soak. I can best show this by the differences in soak times with my salts. I am able to take readings directly off the blade with my thermocoupler and what I call "rebound" (the time for the blade and salts to return to the set temp after the blade is introduced) typically takes around 3 to 4 minutes. This is drastically quicker than what an oven could do. I do not count rebound into soak times, and yet the soak times are very similar. The rest of that time is physics and chemistry taking place, i.e. breaking the carbide bonds and evenly diffusing the carbon, so cross section will have less impact on this facet of the process.

We have heard of "pre-soaks" or low and high heats, this is done for complex shaped parts so that we don't blow through the Ac1 range where there will be serious contraction on thinner sections before the thicker parts can catch up- distortion before you even quench :eek: Fortunately knives are very simple shapes and this becomes less critical.

With my salts I can take the edge as thin as I like and like to hand finish to 600X before heat treating, I mention this to emphasis the effects of open air has. In an oven or even a forge (forges, while hard to control temperature-wise, are nice for controlling atmosphere) one has to make sure they leave material to celan off decarb unless they take special measures to keep the air off from that blade.

Method of quenching will also determine how thin you can take your edge compared to the spine. Referring back to the reasons for presoak holds, the same issues will crop up in quenching. Very thin edges that plunge below Ms out of synch with thick spines will ribbon up from the differnential expansion. I avoid these problems with the marquenching process, allowing things to equalize right before complete hardening.

If you can remove material from the edge and then start finding harder steel- yes it is decarb. Either plan for this and leave your edge harder or protect the steel from the atmosphere.
 
Phillip Patton said:
... but one benefit to grinding it thinner and preventing decarb is that hardened steel is pretty rough on belts. :)

It is even harder on you if you are hand sanding;) Folks ask why I go so fine before heat treating, my answer- there is a huge difference in hand sanding O1 at 25-30HRC from doing it when it is 62HRC!:eek:
 
Is there a point of diminishing return here folks?
I am not being an ass here... just an observation.
What are you gaining?;)
 
what's the best way to avoid decarb if using an oven?
 
There has to be a point of diminishing return, but what is it? Just before that point would be optimal, right?

These threads are a good read and I love them not so much because i want to soak my steel for 5 hours, but because I want to know that if i have 4 blades in the oven, and the fourth ends up with 10 minutes longer soak as i move through the first three, that I havent diminished the quality.

Its also a nice insight into the fact that with a propane forge, you can do more damage in 2 minutes of overheating that you dont realize than you can do in 5 hours at a constant temp.
 
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