Angle question

jfindon

jfindon

Joined
Dec 12, 2006
Messages
967
Sharpening my 0560 here on my KME and after a few passes with the coarse stone, I noticed the sharpie is off all of the edge except for near the tip, to the point of if I decrease the angle any more I'm going to be sharpening the non edge portion of the heel of the blade. Here is a picture to show what I mean:

0oHgJY1.jpg


What do I do about an uneven grind like this, hit the whole edge or keep it at this angle where it won't touch that higher part?
 
That bevel looks pretty good to me... it looks like you're hitting the edge all the way down and the bevel looks pretty consistent width wise. I think I'd sharpen it as is. But if I'm not seeing it right and you want a lower angle toward the tip, clamp the knife closer to the handle.
 
Looks good to me, too. What was the angle? If it was lower than 21 DPS, I would say stay there. The even bevel will be corrected eventually as you sharpen it.


Miso
 
From the picture it looks good to me too. Usually that part of a blade has a steeper angle. I cant see needing to go more shallow.
 
You could move the clamp position closer to the heel of the blade. That will increase the distance to the tip region and effectively lower the angle a degree or two.

I just saw this in cbwx34's post as well...
 
miso2 said:
Looks good to me, too. What was the angle? If it was lower than 21 DPS, I would say stay there. The even bevel will be corrected eventually as you sharpen it.


Miso
Click to expand...

AngleCube is saying about 21.8 degrees.

Thanks guys, guess I'll leave it there and see what happens.
 
Well, as usual, it's not pretty, but it's sharp for me. I'll never be on the level of some of you guys but it shaves with no effort at all so that's good enough for me. I only have the original KME with the original stones, I want to at least get the diamond stones and maybe some better finishing ones. I have one of their strops too but it seems to make it duller when I try to use it, I may be pushing too hard or something.

Can also cut telephone paper pretty easily.

https://youtu.be/M6YDnGC0TR0
 
jfindon said:
Well, as usual, it's not pretty, but it's sharp for me. I'll never be on the level of some of you guys but it shaves with no effort at all so that's good enough for me. I only have the original KME with the original stones, I want to at least get the diamond stones and maybe some better finishing ones. I have one of their strops too but it seems to make it duller when I try to use it, I may be pushing too hard or something.

Can also cut telephone paper pretty easily.

https://youtu.be/M6YDnGC0TR0
Click to expand...

Looks sharp! :thumbup: If you want, post an "after" sharpening picture... might help to diagnose what if anything is wrong (why it's "not pretty").

For stropping, try lower the angle ½-1°... see if that helps.
 
What are you using on your strop for compound? I used to strop using green or red rouge/compound on leather and I just about always made my knives more dull.

I got some 1 micron diamond spray and immediately started getting sharper edges with no other change. I still think the diamond spray is probably the best accessory I've purchased to make my knife hobby more enjoyable. It works great and even a knife that barely shaves can be brought back to a hair popping edge fairly quickly. For the carbide rich stainless steels I like, it is a night and day difference to the colored compounds. At least it is in my hands as I'm not a pro free hander and just an average sharpener.

Diamonds! A knife's best friend!!
 
FlaMtnBkr said:
What are you using on your strop for compound? I used to strop using green or red rouge/compound on leather and I just about always made my knives more dull.

I got some 1 micron diamond spray and immediately started getting sharper edges with no other change. I still think the diamond spray is probably the best accessory I've purchased to make my knife hobby more enjoyable. It works great and even a knife that barely shaves can be brought back to a hair popping edge fairly quickly. For the carbide rich stainless steels I like, it is a night and day difference to the colored compounds. At least it is in my hands as I'm not a pro free hander and just an average sharpener.

Diamonds! A knife's best friend!!
Click to expand...

Good point. I've moved away from most other compounds too for the same reason... now have good luck with Flexcut Gold. Diamond's good too!
 
Well I'd love to post an after shot, but I just loaned my knife to someone who cut through a power cord while it was still plugged in, sparks flew, and now there's a huge chip out of the center of my blade. I'm going to need a whole new blade which will be fun since it's discontinued, I emailed ZT but I'm sure they can't help because of that. I'm so pissed off right now, this is by far my favorite knife and now it's completely ruined.
 
jfindon said:
Well I'd love to post an after shot, but I just loaned my knife to someone who cut through a power cord while it was still plugged in, sparks flew, and now there's a huge chip out of the center of my blade. I'm going to need a whole new blade which will be fun since it's discontinued, I emailed ZT but I'm sure they can't help because of that. I'm so pissed off right now, this is by far my favorite knife and now it's completely ruined.
Click to expand...

Well that's a bummer.

So, how big is the damage? If you can't get it replaced, (and/or the person who damaged it won't replace it with something similar)... it might be fixable. Post a picture of it... see what it looks like.
 
TPk5TZW.jpg


Pretty much toast. I posted in the general forum too to see if anyone had any ideas. I wish they had stockpile of blades for discontinued models or something, I may have to buy someone else's 0560 now. I love this knife and don't want another, hopefully I can figure something out.
 
get a diamond burr for you Dremel and cut some serrations in there.

Person's lucky to be alive - he/she owes you a new knife of equal value and can consider it a cheap lesson. Never loan a knife to anyone, do what needs doing yourself or just say no. I don't even like loaning out my hatchet.

Showing it off, I handed one of my Balisong to a pretty girl at a party, she handed it off and next thing I know some guy goofing around (had no idea how sharp it was) stabbed his brother in the leg. Hit an artery, blood shot out of the cut like a Monty Python skit but was no joke. He was lucky to make it to the hospital.
 
You might consider contacting Josh at Razor Edge Knives... see if that's something he can work with. (If he can, you might end up with a knife you like even better).

If you have no other luck, I can grind a new edge into the knife... at least give you something you can still use. (I'd do that for shipping cost).

Give ZT a chance too... sometimes they come through even on discontinued knives. They're pretty helpful if they can.
 
I have another angle question. I'm sharpening my Leek while my 560 is off to ZT and the first edge I started with seemed to be around 21 degrees. I flipped the knife over and with my angle cube it said it was about .5 to one degree off, and only the very edge is being ground right now, once you establish the angle on one side shouldn't you keep it locked for the other? So should I just grind away until all the sharpie is off the other side so both are even or should I adjust the angle on the KME so the angle cube says it's the same angle right away? Seems like eventually if I grind it away it'll equal that of the first side and you'd want both sides to be equal obviously.
 
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I have yet to see a matching bevel from factory grind other than Spyderco Colorado production, they use robot now and I'm very impressed. Your factory bevel is likely 3-5 degrees off from one side to the other. I had a Benchmade with 25 on one side and 17 on the other; the primary bevel may be off too by a couple degrees so do check on the main bevel as well before you go to town with the stones.

If one side of the primary bevel is at 8 degrees and the other side is 10, your 15 degree secondary bevel will look narrower on the 10 degree side and wider on the 8 degree side.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks, so I'm correct in assuming I need to just stay at it with the same angle set on the KME until the second side matches the first?
 
wiredbeans said:
I have yet to see a matching bevel from factory grind other than Spyderco Colorado production, they use robot now and I'm very impressed. Your factory bevel is likely 3-5 degrees off from one side to the other. I had a Benchmade with 25 on one side and 17 on the other; the primary bevel may be off too by a couple degrees so do check on the main bevel as well before you go to town with the stones.

If one side of the primary bevel is at 8 degrees and the other side is 10, your 15 degree secondary bevel will look narrower on the 10 degree side and wider on the 8 degree side.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Can you explain what you mean by primary and secondary bevel? I've always taken that as secondary bevel meaning microbevel, but it doesn't sound like that's the case.
 
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