Annealing AEBL

colu41

colu41

Joined
Dec 24, 2014
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I could only find one old thread here that had any info. And it wasn't anything super positive. I read soak at 1600F for 15 minutes and slow cool? I need to anneal 2 santokus that seemed to have warped quite heavily after D.I. soak. Decided instead of scrapping them to re-HT and make them into Xmas gifts. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
 
When warped id say the best thing is a good really slow cool. So id watch air temp especially if its really cold in your shop. I dont have much experience yet im a beginner but thats my input
 
Ducksandcuse said:
When warped id say the best thing is a good really slow cool. So id watch air temp especially if its really cold in your shop. I dont have much experience yet im a beginner but thats my input
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I got a digital oven, can set timers, temperatures and what not, so not worried about the cooling. Just need the actual procedure to get it back to as soft as possible.
 
From what ive read you got two choices Heat to 1600F soak 15 minutes then slow cool in furnace. Or slightly higher brinel by sub-critical anneal 1400F then let it cool via air
 
1d6ccb70c43e66c077b047017f25af0a.jpg
so dark orange
 
Thanks Devin - you da man for AEB-L knowledge for sure. Just to make sure I fully understand, wrap in foil, heat for 4 hours at 1350ºF, then slow cool in oven allowing oven to cool with door closed?

Ken H>
 
Ken H> said:
Thanks Devin - you da man for AEB-L knowledge for sure. Just to make sure I fully understand, wrap in foil, heat for 4 hours at 1350ºF, then slow cool in oven allowing oven to cool with door closed?

Ken H>
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This is a simple sub-critical anneal to allow straightening before re-heat treating in cases of warpage.

No need to slow cool, air cool is fine.

Hoss
 
So my question is why are you annealing; To fix the warp?
If so there is a good chance it will just warp again as AEB-L loves to warp.
Why not just fix the warp during your first temper cycle. Clamp it to a thick straight bar of steel and temper. This will remove bows and twists, its really amazing what it will fix.
 
Who, me? Not for warp, this is because I have made san mai with AEB-L cladding and I want to soften it more to grind bevels. It's pretty wear resistant after just forging. I tried typical sub-critical cycles for post-forging of hyper steels, wasn't good enough! Went through too many belts.
 
Ken H> said:
I really hate to expose my lack of knowledge, but can anyone explain that phase diagram? Below is the diagram.

AEB_L_Phase_Diagram.png
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It is a bit hard to explain it all, because a stainless steel chart is more complex than a simple carbon steel chart. The symbols are for alpha iron, gamma iron, and metal carbides. The lines are the points that they change phases and structures. The area between two boundary lines is a zone. The important zones we are dealing with in stainless HT are the alpha/gamma zone, the gamma zone, and the alpha + M23C6 zone.
By using the chart you determine the temperature it takes to get a certain structure and how time affects that change.


In carbon steel the main players are ferrite and cementite, austenite, pearlite, and martensite. In stainless, these can get combined and be in different forms.
 
Thanks Stacy - While I can sorta follow a carbon steel chart, but that stainless is totally different.

Ken H>
 
Remember that the steel is rolled to desired thickness then rolled up like a giant toilet paper roll .The pre-stresses the steel and is a good part of the warp. I like a sub-critical anneal as you don't worry about introducing scale etc. ..The straighten , then HT.
 
mete said:
Remember that the steel is rolled to desired thickness then rolled up like a giant toilet paper roll .The pre-stresses the steel and is a good part of the warp. I like a sub-critical anneal as you don't worry about introducing scale etc. ..The straighten , then HT.
Click to expand...

When I get steel from Sandvik 14C28N and 13C26 they always have tension, I guess they came exactly as you described, so after laser cutting the blades I heat them to 850-900C, flatten them under a heavy load and then reheat at 650C and slow cool to leave them soft again. Works for me.

Pablo
 
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