Anodizing Advice Needed

I figured as much, alright, last question because I seem to have never ending ones. What is a cheap inexpensive titanium item you would recommend practicing on? A prybar or something of the sort?
 
Just a heads-up, Whink will etch S35VN stainless pretty good after an hour. The stuff is pretty brutal.
 
Dogdrawz said:
Just a heads-up, Whink will etch S35VN stainless pretty good after an hour. The stuff is pretty brutal.
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I figured as much, although I am doing no anodizing of any kind to s35VN stainless steel, only titanium. None of my M390 or S35VN blades are going near that stuff haha.
 
NomenclaturalMan said:
I figured as much, alright, last question because I seem to have never ending ones. What is a cheap inexpensive titanium item you would recommend practicing on? A prybar or something of the sort?
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The titanium backpacking cutlery can be found pretty cheap;)
 
I figured as much, although I am doing no anodizing of any kind to s35VN stainless steel, only titanium. None of my M390 or S35VN blades are going near that stuff haha.
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I'm annodizing a Crux, & thought "I don't like the Massdrop name on the blade either.", so I etch the entire blade. Gonna tumble that bad boy along with the handles. It won't get rid of the name, but it'll hide it bit. Also, try & post some photos of your work if you can. We all like photos. :thumbsup:
 
Dogdrawz said:
I'm annodizing a Crux, & thought "I don't like the Massdrop name on the blade either.", so I etch the entire blade. Gonna tumble that bad boy along with the handles. It won't get rid of the name, but it'll hide it bit. Also, try & post some photos of your work if you can. We all like photos. :thumbsup:
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Hey man, haha you do you, nothing wrong with that at all. I don't care for the big Massdrop etching on the side of their blades either. The photos I have posted in the original post are all I have done anodizing wise, but I hope to do more soon!
 
Mr.Wizard said:
Am I the only one disturbed by the fact that HF is being marketed for cleaning sinks?

https://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/1291.pdf
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Oh my gosh, right? It's disturbing to think that people might actually use it in that way. I was honestly being stupid when cleaning one of the knfie scales and I dropped it in the Whink and it splashed all over my workbench and a bit got on my face, all good though, no face scars or anything. But yes, this stuff is a bit scary to work with.
 
I still use whink, but you do need to treat it like any other strong acid. It literally only takes seconds to remove anodizing. Wear gloves, and have fresh water right next to the dip, so it can be rinsed immediately.

Also as mentioned, it does eat steel also. Think steel lockbar inserts and steel detent balls. Anything that you can't remove, and would not like altered, make sure it's covered well in advance with something. I've used fingernail polish, rubber cement, etc. Bearings, bearing races, lock faces, screw threads.

Also, for cleaning, I usually scrub with soap and water, and usually a scotchbrite pad. Then wipe down with rubbing alcohol after gloves go on. And don't touch without clean nitrile gloves until finished.
 
bflying said:
I still use whink, but you do need to treat it like any other strong acid. It literally only takes seconds to remove anodizing. Wear gloves, and have fresh water right next to the dip, so it can be rinsed immediately.

Also as mentioned, it does eat steel also. Think steel lockbar inserts and steel detent balls. Anything that you can't remove, and would not like altered, make sure it's covered well in advance with something. I've used fingernail polish, rubber cement, etc. Bearings, bearing races, lock faces, screw threads.

Also, for cleaning, I usually scrub with soap and water, and usually a scotchbrite pad. Then wipe down with rubbing alcohol after gloves go on. And don't touch without clean nitrile gloves until finished.
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Hey, this is all super helpful information! I think I was skipping steps and whatnot here and there but I never thought of a scotchbrite pad, as I was afraid it would scratch the finish. Thanks so much for all of these tips! Luckily, I took everything non titanium out of the Smoke, so no detent balls or lockbar inserts were hurt in the process of the anodization.
 
NomenclaturalMan said:
Hey, this is all super helpful information! I think I was skipping steps and whatnot here and there but I never thought of a scotchbrite pad, as I was afraid it would scratch the finish. Thanks so much for all of these tips! Luckily, I took everything non titanium out of the Smoke, so no detent balls or lockbar inserts were hurt in the process of the anodization.
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Do the bearings run directly on the titanium? Or is there a steel washer for them? The reason I point it out, is that if you left the scales in the whink long enough to alter the outside finish, then it could also affect the action of the bearing race. I've just learned to be paranoid as some folder actions can be a bit sensitive.
 
NomenclaturalMan said:
I never thought of a scotchbrite pad, as I was afraid it would scratch the finish.
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Green scotch brite will change the finish. The blue ones for nonstick pans should be safe.
 
Awesome photos! I do love to see peoples unique visions come to life. BTW...

...so what color finger nail polish is everyone using? I've got me some hot pink! One of those colors the wife did not like. :cool:
 
bflying said:
Do the bearings run directly on the titanium? Or is there a steel washer for them? The reason I point it out, is that if you left the scales in the whink long enough to alter the outside finish, then it could also affect the action of the bearing race. I've just learned to be paranoid as some folder actions can be a bit sensitive.
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The Smoke runs its bearings on steel washers so it should be fairly safe. I am trying not to etch it too many more times! But thanks for bringing that up.
 
Dogdrawz said:
Awesome photos! I do love to see peoples unique visions come to life. BTW...

...so what color finger nail polish is everyone using? I've got me some hot pink! One of those colors the wife did not like. :cool:
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Thank you, I really appreciate that! I haven't had to use any yet since I can completely take down all the steel parts from the Smoke. I will ask my wife for some once I need it haha
 
bflying said:
I still use whink, but you do need to treat it like any other strong acid. It literally only takes seconds to remove anodizing. Wear gloves, and have fresh water right next to the dip, so it can be rinsed immediately.

Also as mentioned, it does eat steel also. Think steel lockbar inserts and steel detent balls. Anything that you can't remove, and would not like altered, make sure it's covered well in advance with something. I've used fingernail polish, rubber cement, etc. Bearings, bearing races, lock faces, screw threads.

Also, for cleaning, I usually scrub with soap and water, and usually a scotchbrite pad. Then wipe down with rubbing alcohol after gloves go on. And don't touch without clean nitrile gloves until finished.
Click to expand...
bflying said:
I still use whink, but you do need to treat it like any other strong acid. It literally only takes seconds to remove anodizing. Wear gloves, and have fresh water right next to the dip, so it can be rinsed immediately.

Also as mentioned, it does eat steel also. Think steel lockbar inserts and steel detent balls. Anything that you can't remove, and would not like altered, make sure it's covered well in advance with something. I've used fingernail polish, rubber cement, etc. Bearings, bearing races, lock faces, screw threads.

Also, for cleaning, I usually scrub with soap and water, and usually a scotchbrite pad. Then wipe down with rubbing alcohol after gloves go on. And don't touch without clean nitrile gloves until finished.
Click to expand...
Do you dilute your Whink?
 
I have not, but that's a good idea. I did discover that once used by a few parts, it became much less effective. Especially when left for days between use. So I now try to find containers that are not too much larger than the parts I'm working with. This way I contaminate smaller portions of the stuff, and make it last longer.
 
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