another becker.... joining the dark side

Joined
Jun 11, 2008
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1,409
I used to have a becker necker and it was just never comfortable so I ended up giving it to a friend. I liked the knife but it never fit my hand.
Then I got an izula. The handle was great so it got to stay. My first izula was black but I traded it to a friend for his blaze orange. I liked the orange in the woods because you would have to be blind to lose it!

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I have been using my orange izula as an EDC neck knife for a while but I really wanted a little more blade to take it from a good EDC to a great EDC. I was also getting tired of the knife sticking out from across a field like a damn bike reflector. If only I had my dark izula but with a longer blade.:(

Enter the eskabar!
This is the tag-a-long knife I have been waiting for. Its very small and unobtrusive but seems durable enough to handle some real use. It has the feeling of a little-big-knife. In black of course.

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I am sorry about the "glamour shots". Esky was embarrased about being all bright and new and begged me not to post them but we came to an agreement. I have to put her to use and post the real pics tomorrow.:D

The only issue I have is the sheath. It is so loose the knife rattles loudly when I wear it. Not something I normally worry about but this one is worse than usual. Anyone have a recommendation for some custom kydex?
 
The only issue I have is the sheath. It is so loose the knife rattles loudly when I wear it. Not something I normally worry about but this one is worse than usual. Anyone have a recommendation for some custom kydex?

Stuff a small piece of para in the bottom, or a little ranger band rubber in it, it gets quieter. I IWB carry mine, so, no rattle there. I used my fatass to fix it.

Moose
 
Have you ever noticed the DARKSIDE has cooler everything.

Yes becker is the DARKSIDE.....
 
I meant the paracord in the sheath tip..... that helped with the rattle
I neck carry so a loose fit isn't good in general
I would still like a better sheath, at least one with tighter retention.
 
Love the pics buddy. I just checked the tracking on my bk-5 and 14 order. It has been frozen for days because of the holidays, and just started moving today. If I'm lucky I'll have my toys in a week. Until then.....I'll just enjoy the cool pics like yours. Oh..you mentioned the sheath. I believe that I've seen guys using a heat gun to warm plastic up, tamp it down a bit with a rag, then let it cool to retain a tighter grip. Don't know if it will work for yours, but what the hey.
 
I meant the paracord in the sheath tip..... that helped with the rattle
I neck carry so a loose fit isn't good in general
I would still like a better sheath, at least one with tighter retention.

I've been meaning to build a pattern for kydex for these, but honestly, since I started IWB mine, I kinda put it on the back burner, I'll see If I can come up with something.

Moose
 
Upnorth- I feel your pain. I have a BK2 that is stuck due to weather problems. Should have arrived today with the esky but hasn't moved in four days.
Don't forget to put pics up when they come.



P.S. I'm sitting here sharpening my eskabar and am really happy how quickly the edge is polishing up. I will have this thing sharp enough to whittle a hair by the end of the night. If I remember I'll throw some pics up tomorrow, maybe a video.
 
I definitely like my BK-14 over the Izula too, for the same reason...more blade. Mine came sharp enough that I haven't had a chance to get bored long enough to want to improve the edge yet, I'll just wait till I dull it some :)

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I don't want to give the wrong impression, my eskabar came plenty sharp. It could slice paper cleanly on a draw cut and thats plenty for a factory edge, certainly sharper than many factory blades I have bought. I'm just a sharpening junky. I recently made a thread where I got a custom made tomahawk to whittle a hair with pics and video.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=800477

It was the biggest sharpening challenge I have taken on and now that I have refined my process I can get most sharp knives polished up enough to split a hair in a relatively short time. Once its that sharp and the edge is refined it has a VERY long field life before needing to be touched up because a high polished edge has fewer imperfections to fold or chip on a microscopic level.
Again, totally not necessary! just my OCD kicking in.
 
I don't want to give the wrong impression, my eskabar came plenty sharp. It could slice paper cleanly on a draw cut and thats plenty for a factory edge, certainly sharper than many factory blades I have bought. I'm just a sharpening junky. I recently made a thread where I got a custom made tomahawk to whittle a hair with pics and video.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=800477

It was the biggest sharpening challenge I have taken on and now that I have refined my process I can get most sharp knives polished up enough to split a hair in a relatively short time. Once its that sharp and the edge is refined it has a VERY long field life before needing to be touched up because a high polished edge has fewer imperfections to fold or chip on a microscopic level.
Again, totally not necessary! just my OCD kicking in.

Ok, that's cool man, I just thought it odd that it "needed" sharpening so quickly...I understand now :thumbup:

Hmmm...maybe I need to turn you loose on my hawk lol. I had John at RMJ modify the grind on my Shrike to hit somewhere between the geometry of the Shrike and that of the Talons/Kestrels/hammer Poll, though my Shrike is nearly fully convexed on the primary edge with a slight secondary. I keep saying I am going to zero-degree it and polish it up but I never get around to it.
 
Mist, how sharp is it now? chop only, slice paper, shave arm?

Lol, it will chop pretty well...even whittle shavings with a little effort. The Shrike was designed as a breaching and extraction tool. For the reason I have it I really don't need to get it that sharp I suppose...besides if I get it shaving sharp I'll lose my leverage for getting the next one :D (long story)
 
I'm familiar, got a Shrike myself. My favorite thing to do with it is rip stumps apart for fatwood. I have no need for a "breaching tool" as that was it design intent but it works great for ripping pretty much anything apart. If the only thing your looking for is to get the convex down to a zero with no secondary bevel then post up a pic so I can see how much bevel needs to be removed and I might be able to give you a hand.
 
mmm. orange. have to have a talk with Toooj :)
 
mmm. orange. have to have a talk with Toooj :)

You think we could get an orange run of eskabars? I'm rocking the black right now but I know its all about the mood I'm in. If they come out with a high viz model then I'm in as soon as its out.
 
I'm familiar, got a Shrike myself. My favorite thing to do with it is rip stumps apart for fatwood. I have no need for a "breaching tool" as that was it design intent but it works great for ripping pretty much anything apart. If the only thing your looking for is to get the convex down to a zero with no secondary bevel then post up a pic so I can see how much bevel needs to be removed and I might be able to give you a hand.

The Shrike is definitely good at ripping things apart. I have used it on demo jobs tearing out drywall and framing and stuff just to test it. I'll try to get a current pic of it up soon.
 
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