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- Dec 2, 1999
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Is there something besides borax that melts at a lower temp that will stay on the steel all the way to welding temps? I always thought there should be a flux that starts working way before the heat builds scale.
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Another Borax Question
- Thread starter Bruce Bump
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Bruce,Contact Tim Lively,He has been experimenting with a lot of different things for flux and he might be able to help you out.
Bruce
Bruce
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Bruce
Are you using anhydrous?
It starts at 900 degrees. Thats around scaling temp.
Are you using anhydrous?
It starts at 900 degrees. Thats around scaling temp.
- Joined
- Dec 2, 1999
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- 9,910
It is anhydrous but I think the melting point is more like 1200-1400 degrees. Sometimes I get an unexplainable unwelded area. Im blaming it on the flux. I use a pyrometer in the gas forge. Talk to me.
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Bruce,You just forgot to scare off the "Damascus Gremlins" before you started welding 
I have this happen to me sometimes and it is usually when I am welding up a wider billet like about 1 1/2 inches wide or so.I have found that I get cleaner welds with 1 inch wide billets and keep them that wide until the last fold and then widen the billet as I am stretching it out to make the blade.I guess this is due to a stray hammer strike every now and then.
Are you using new stock or are you like me and using old found and recyled metal from the scrap pile? If you are using old stuff I have found that some of it has deep pits or a funny shape in the surface that doesn't let you get a clean weld and thus a blister pops up and you have to grind it out and weld it again,but this will mess up any pattern that you are trying for except a random pattern.
Bruce
I have this happen to me sometimes and it is usually when I am welding up a wider billet like about 1 1/2 inches wide or so.I have found that I get cleaner welds with 1 inch wide billets and keep them that wide until the last fold and then widen the billet as I am stretching it out to make the blade.I guess this is due to a stray hammer strike every now and then.
Are you using new stock or are you like me and using old found and recyled metal from the scrap pile? If you are using old stuff I have found that some of it has deep pits or a funny shape in the surface that doesn't let you get a clean weld and thus a blister pops up and you have to grind it out and weld it again,but this will mess up any pattern that you are trying for except a random pattern.
Bruce
- Joined
- Dec 2, 1999
- Messages
- 9,910
Bruce E
When I use 1084 and 15n20 I get very good results. I almost always spend good money for new steels. I need to ween off the 1084 and pure nickel. Thats when I sometimes get your gremlins. That is the trickiest stuff I know of. The last bar had a big blister the size of the knob on the back of my head.
When I use 1084 and 15n20 I get very good results. I almost always spend good money for new steels. I need to ween off the 1084 and pure nickel. Thats when I sometimes get your gremlins. That is the trickiest stuff I know of. The last bar had a big blister the size of the knob on the back of my head.
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Hello Bruce, I wonder if a liquid flux might help. I have never used any, but have heard of such a thing. Maybe someone can give us a recipe.
I think it is made of borax disolved in water, with maybe some secret ingredients added. The billet is dipped into this solution and allowed to dry. Then the forgewelding process starts.
I think someone named Wild Bill Caldwell used to claim to have a secret recipe and used to sell liquid flux.
Maybe others can shed more light on this subject. Tom Lewis
I think it is made of borax disolved in water, with maybe some secret ingredients added. The billet is dipped into this solution and allowed to dry. Then the forgewelding process starts.
I think someone named Wild Bill Caldwell used to claim to have a secret recipe and used to sell liquid flux.
Maybe others can shed more light on this subject. Tom Lewis
