Another Burnishing Thread.

This is an interesting thread as I always struggle with the last little bit of perfection that seems unattainable. Here's a synopsis of the information that I've learned from this thread that I'll try next time:

1. Use higher quality leather
2. Use higher grit sandpaper (I've only ever gone up to 120 grit)
3. Sand in both directions
4. Leave the leather natural for a perfect burnish as dye may make it less than perfect.

Strigamort - the edge in your last picture looked great. Very glassy finish and I like how the separate pieces of leather almost blend into one. I agree that after that point, anything more will have dimishing returns, unless you are going to mount it on your wall or send it to the county fair edge-burnishing competition.

I bought my first axe sheath quite a while back before I got into leather work and started making my own sheaths. I bought it from a popular axe maker and didn't pay any attention to the edge. Since then, I've struggled mightily in getting the perfect burnished edges on my own sheaths. So, I recently thought I should go find that original sheath and take a fresh look at it now that I know a little more about finishing the edges. I wanted to see what incredibly high bar I would have to meet in order to match the fine edge of a store-bought sheath. Imagine my astonishment to see this:


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That's when I realized that there are people (i.e. me at that time) that will pay good money for a sheath that has completely unfinished edges.

Here's a recent edge I did - it is quite smooth and glassy to the touch, but you can still see some inclusions in it. I dyed the welt a darker color, some of which got sanded off after it was assembled. I ended up liking the marbled multi-colored look so I didn't apply a final dye to it. It might be interesting to have a more deliberate two-toned edge in the future...


2en2q6x.jpg
 
Did someone say to sand in both directions? I've taken to sanding in one direction, then adding a touch (very little) of water once I get to a high (call it 1k or so) grit.

Burnish competition? I like the sound of that. :) If pics weren't so different from real life I might instigate that. I think compressing the leather would do wonders for a stunning burnish. When I compress leather for stacked handles, the edge after cutting it, is really burnished just from the head knife.

I've also stopped using lower quality leather for my welts. I have a side of black leather that I bought years ago from Tandy. I use it for welts and it works perfectly in that capacity, but for a really nice edge (eg non dyed) I use the good stuff. Just not enough density in the "motorcycle" leather.

Yeah, that sheath is a great example of the difference between hand/custom made versus typical factory. The sad thing about that factory sheath is that it looks like they could have made it far nicer with nothing more than a little water and a piece of wood to rub it with. Probably wouldn't be excellent, but certainty better.

Two toned welt/stack. I've tried that and also like the results. Mine suffered the same as yours due to sanding, but in person I think it adds character. Almost a wood grain look.

I like your work. I believe a customer will be sending his Wetterling axe here pretty soon so I'll be taking a crash coarse on how to make axe sheaths. Any tips you care to share?
 
Strigamort said:
Did someone say to sand in both directions? I've taken to sanding in one direction, then adding a touch (very little) of water once I get to a high (call it 1k or so) grit.
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Yes, I think that's what Leatherman was getting at:


leatherman said:
...I know it sounds crazy, but occasionally I'll flip the sheath over and sand from the other side, that tends to expose those fibers that are simply bending over. Think of the Weed Eater that only goes in one direction and how the grass folds over, imagine if you could reverse that machine how effective it would be overall.

I feel I'm getting that blank stare I got in class yesterday. :p
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Can't hurt to try it. Maybe that store-bought sheath would be a good test case for me. If I do try it, I'll post the results.

I like the idea of making the welt with a piece of black leather. That would solve the shaving / sanding off the dye problem. Like you said, though, it'd have to be a good quality piece.

As far as thoughts on axe sheaths... I've seen your work on knife sheaths and I'm confident that you've surpassed me in knowledge on how to make sheaths. However, one thought is about the strap - some sheaths (that store-bought one is an example) have the strap going across the poll. This is a bad design as it can slip up and down, or even off the poll. Also, if someone wanted to use the poll for hammering a stake or something, it's nice to be able to use the axe without removing the sheath. That way, you don't accidentally axe yourself in the face. A better design is the strap going below the poll and around the handle. Or, conversely have a strap simply wrap up underneath the poll without going behind the handle.
 
leatherman said:
Strig, the above step by step by Gary is the way he taught me back in 2001/02.

There have been a whole bunch of different processes come by since, but his way has been my way for that long.

It sure brought back a lot of memories reading that, and to think I'm still doing it that way today. :)
Click to expand...

I slightly differ from this - but not by much. I wish I would have read this three years ago. G2 is spot on.

TF
 
Strig, not only do I sand both directions on my belt and disk sander, I also sand back and fourth when hand sanding. One direction sanding sounds like a little more work for less results in my world. But as I always say, everybody does their own thing. As you've seen here before, some people get a little stressed out when someone does something so different than their way. Its not worth worrying over and its not a sign of disrespect.

I am rather confused as to how dye can effect the edge quality? The looks yes, but the smoothness? Dunno.
 
Wait, who said dye makes a difference on smoothness? I think it makes a difference visually for sure. My edges look better natural, but the smoothness doesn't change.

Jeez, I need to just re-read the whole thing. :o

Thanks for the tips on the axe sheaths. I may not have considered the poll and being able to use it while the edge is covered would be a plus for the customer.

Edit-re: sanding. I will hand sand with abandon until I get to my finishing stage, then sand in one direction only. Sanding both ways tends to bring up the fuzzies. I often think about how everyone has a method that they prefer and it's likely different from the next guy. It's interesting to me because with knife making it seems to be much less up in the air. Usually there are common methods for most of the steps involved. At least this is how I've seen things done. I wonder why this is. I think partly it's because of the way we were taught in the first place, and possibly because we are allowed a lot of ways to achieve similar results. Not nearly as much science involved in leather work. I sometimes have a difficult time with the order of steps. More than once I've had to back peddle to keep from boxing myself in.

Anyway, I'm happy to stay in the learning stage. I'm not so confident that I won't try new things. ;)
 
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It has a lot to do with the absence of standard and/or wide spread schooling. Its mostly word of mouth in leather craft, or tracking down the varied books. For a long time Al Stohlman was the man for books and step by step, kind of still is today, the methods are solid, but the projects are a "little" dated. I love the little walkie talkie case!

For a long time The Leather Crafter & Saddler's Journal was one of my favorite resources. I cant seem to find it anymore. I still have a large stack of them that I refer to often.

Knifemaking has both a lot of schools, and a ton of information out there. Not so much "learn as you can grab it"
 
Good points.

As I read the line about some of the stuff in Al's books being dated in thought of the radio case too. :) I think it's funny some of the dorky stuff TLF sells too, like a very old style cell phone cover. I haven't seen a flip phone lately. :)

Speaking of Tandy, I was dragged to the county fair last night and Tandy was there with a booth. Everything was elite pricing. Unfortunately their selection was very limited to mostly kits and hair-on hides, but I did manage to pick up a bunch of Chicago screws. The manager was pleasant enough too.
 
I got a flip phone. Don't need a smart phone, the flip phone is already smarter than me. Speaking of county fairs. I'm working on four knives and sheaths for prizes for the wild cow milking for our county fair later in the month. Just finishing off the handles this morning.
 
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Oh sounds like fun! I'll admit, I did think of you and Paul as I was admiring the livestock. Lots of good animals around these parts. ;)

Flip phone? I didn't think they still made them. Well, maybe the kit is still sold for those that still have them. I have one that came in the kit I bought 10ish years ago. They have made a little effort in updating the projects in their kits at least. I think they booted the cell phone case for another item, but they still sell it piece meal.
 
One of the keys that Gary mentioned is dying before any burnishing is done, even before some finish sanding is done as using water and a fine sandpaper is equivalent to burnishing. Honestly, I dont burnish all that much anymore, its mostly to smooth an honery corner or spot its difficult to get to with sand paper. "The more you know, the less you need" :p
 
Not sure, I've slept since then. :p

I do remember something about being happy to see more care about edge treatment as it seems to be a 'lost art' of sorts. Honestly you can sell lots of sheaths with a mediocre treatment and have a lot of pleased customers. You must provide a complete package, good solid work all around.

Perfect edges are all good and fine, but if it looks like a brick or a corn chip, then you have issues.

Your gathering a good all around package, dont worry about the small stuff it will work itself out as you gain experience.
 
bwahahahahahaha! My evil plan of teaching the "perfected shake n bake" to all my competitors has succeeded!!!! :D

Now off to teach a class in the "improved brick toss" or "how to make a 1" thick sheath using 1/4" thick leather!


Hey Strig, did I mention the importance of using 14 ounce saddle sides in your work? The importance of bellies in your belt loop? oh yea! The stringier the back the better! Makes nifty ties for accessories!
 
Fritos size 3 is the best corn chip tooling stamp I've very used. It's well made solid tool and made here in the US. I really like that it has a good solid square head for even srike with your maul.
 
Well crap, here I've been using 1/2oz chrome tanned for liners and croc skin pleather for the rest. I also just bought a $40 Brother sewing machine from walmart, but I sprang for the leather needle, all on your recommendations.

Get it together man. :thumbdown:

Now I'm off to look for the Frito line of tools. I know I can count on Daves advice.

Sheesh.
 
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