Another day, another lesson learned.

wrc

Joined
Dec 5, 2002
Messages
15
Gee, if I had thought a little more about it, I'd probably not have sawed through that sheetrock with my MOD Trident.

At least now I have learned an easy method to round down and polish an edge smooth ;) .

Does anyone know an effective way to turn completely ground-down-to-a-nub serrations into a useful edge without grinding away most of the blade?

"It's like stropping...in reverse!"

-Bill
 
I'd suggest you send it back to MOD to get the serrations reground.

--Mike L.
 
I don't think it can be fixed in the field, gotta go back to the factory.

"completely ground-down-to-a-nub serrations"??? Even the factory probably can't do an acceptible job of fixing that. You just can't put back what's been worn away.

I'm with Mr. DaveH. I want to know how much sheetrock you sawed through and what thickness it was. A good knife should withstand a reasonable amout of sheetrock. I've sawed some with my Benchmade AFCK and not noticed any ill effects.
 
Originally posted by DaveH
Just curious, how much sheet rock did you saw through?

A 1"x10" section, so a total of about a foot. 3/4" thick, though. I was jammed in my attic installing a new exhaust fan/heat lamp for my bathroom when I noticed that the ceiling opening from the original fan was an inch or so too narrow for the new unit.

Rather than twist my way out of that part of the attic, I had the bright idea of using my knife. It got slow near the end and my thought was that I was just getting tired. Nope. I was getting dull. I checked my knife when I was done, and found the round, polished, used-to-be-edge. That's when I remembered what was mentioned by nifrand above: "They make sheetrock saws for stuff like that."

-Bill
 
There is just no way that cutting through one foot of 3/4" sheetrock should have ruined that knife like that. Send it back for warranty replacement.
 
Originally posted by Gollnick
There is just no way that cutting through one foot of 3/4" sheetrock should have ruined that knife like that. Send it back for warranty replacement.

My bad, I mistakenly refered to the ceiling as sheetrock (drywall). It actually is some sort of cement board (masonry board?). Obviously, I don't do a lot of construction, as I've always called drywall "drywall". I thought sheetrock was slang for generic masonry/cement board products. I know now, that's for sure.

This was heavy stuff, too. It was two layers thick, with some sort of fibrous paper between the two layers. I really should have used a jigsaw and a carbide blade. I've learned my lesson about cutting unknown materials by flashlight in an attic. I've also learned that sheetrock is drywall. Heck, now I've got a heat lamp in my bathroom, too. The day wasn't a total waste.

-Bill
 
cement board???
my heart goes out to your trident :eek:

say, do you have problems with the non serrated part of the blade? i can't get mine to shave :(
 
sell it to me cheap and get a new one. you know you will never be happy with a "sheetrock" MOD, just think of the ribbing you will take at work, at home, at church.
 
That material is called "backer board" and it's commonly used in bathrooms since it's more resistant to water and humidity. Though it is less common to find backer board in the ceiling.

And yes, that stuff is a lot tougher to cut.
 
get your self one of the bass pro diamond fish hook sharpening pens. Ive used these myself to restore a serrated edge.
 
Well, I think I'm going to try and grind a slight recurve into the blade where the serrations used to meet the plain edge and carry that for the rest of the length. The knife is so beat up in general that it's not a tragedy to experiment a little. It's a pity...the Trident's handle is really ergonomic, and I'll miss it. A good knife for the money, no doubt about that.

I'm getting a Griptilian to replace it. I can't be trusted with nice expensive knives anymore for edc :D . No serrations this time, either. The Trident's plain edge came back with a lot of passes on a sharpmaker, all the more pity for the (formerly) serrated 2/3rds.

-Bill
 
Wouldn't hurt to contact them, and ask how much it would cost to replace the blade. I did that with Benchmade one time, while sending a knife in to have the lock checked out. Think it was $25.
They sent me back a brand new knife, though:)
 
Back
Top