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Another first knife thread
- Thread starter Dane_A
- Start date
I love the clean look of hidden pins. I like the simple shape and squared off butt.
May I ask as to the type of steel and any other particulars you might want to share? No reason other than curious what other new makers are choosing to start with.
Thanks for sharing.
Edited to add that I must leave the critique of the grind and finish to much more experienced knife observers than myself for fear of not knowing what I'm talking about.
May I ask as to the type of steel and any other particulars you might want to share? No reason other than curious what other new makers are choosing to start with.
Thanks for sharing.
Edited to add that I must leave the critique of the grind and finish to much more experienced knife observers than myself for fear of not knowing what I'm talking about.
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- Oct 13, 2011
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- 1,774
very first? ...pretty good man. I like the nice and sensible design. I wish I had a pic of my first knife to show you so you could laugh at it compared to yours.
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2012
- Messages
- 2,734
Love the lines as much as the above guy.
I personally would prefer a thinner handle, sans the liner.
I personally would prefer a thinner handle, sans the liner.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
Moderator
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2004
- Messages
- 38,522
Welcome to Shop Talk.
As a first knife it is a good job. The placement of the choil and finger rest look good. You made a fitted Kydex sheath, too. - kudos!
It is a good idea when posting a photo or asking for critique and comment to give the specs on the blade and handle - size, materials, other notes, etc.
The main thing that meets my eye is that it is "stiff" and "blocky". The handle is too squared and flat sided, and the overall knife shape is too straight. This gives the appearance that you tried too hard to confine the knife to the shape of the bar of steel and the block of Micarta. Adding a tiny bit of curve to the spine and rounding the handle to a slightly oval or egg shaped profile will make a wonderful change in the stiffness of the look. Small amounts of curve here and there will "soften" the look.
The small amount of curve you put into the butt was good. Having the front of the scales have a similar slight curve would have been good. If you notice, the slight curve to the bottom of the handle makes it look nice. Having the top line of the whole knife have a tiny curve from butt to tip would make that softness of the bottom carry over to the top. The amount of curvature can be minute - even a 1/16" curve will show to the eye. I generally have a curve of at least 1/8" in the butt to tip line.
Another feature you will need to change in the future is bringing the handle material down into that thin point at the finger rest. Doping this will make the little projection of handle break off easily. Sooner or later that little tit will bump something hard when in use and snap right off. Most makers shape the scales so it curves back into the finger rest above the pointed area.
I can't tell from the photos, but is the blade a full flat grind? How thick was the edge before HT?
The above comments are not meant to denigrate this knife, but to give ideas for improvements on the next one.
As a first knife it is a good job. The placement of the choil and finger rest look good. You made a fitted Kydex sheath, too. - kudos!
It is a good idea when posting a photo or asking for critique and comment to give the specs on the blade and handle - size, materials, other notes, etc.
The main thing that meets my eye is that it is "stiff" and "blocky". The handle is too squared and flat sided, and the overall knife shape is too straight. This gives the appearance that you tried too hard to confine the knife to the shape of the bar of steel and the block of Micarta. Adding a tiny bit of curve to the spine and rounding the handle to a slightly oval or egg shaped profile will make a wonderful change in the stiffness of the look. Small amounts of curve here and there will "soften" the look.
The small amount of curve you put into the butt was good. Having the front of the scales have a similar slight curve would have been good. If you notice, the slight curve to the bottom of the handle makes it look nice. Having the top line of the whole knife have a tiny curve from butt to tip would make that softness of the bottom carry over to the top. The amount of curvature can be minute - even a 1/16" curve will show to the eye. I generally have a curve of at least 1/8" in the butt to tip line.
Another feature you will need to change in the future is bringing the handle material down into that thin point at the finger rest. Doping this will make the little projection of handle break off easily. Sooner or later that little tit will bump something hard when in use and snap right off. Most makers shape the scales so it curves back into the finger rest above the pointed area.
I can't tell from the photos, but is the blade a full flat grind? How thick was the edge before HT?
The above comments are not meant to denigrate this knife, but to give ideas for improvements on the next one.
I love the clean look of hidden pins. I like the simple shape and squared off butt.
May I ask as to the type of steel and any other particulars you might want to share? No reason other than curious what other new makers are choosing to start with.
Thanks for sharing.
Edited to add that I must leave the critique of the grind and finish to much more experienced knife observers than myself for fear of not knowing what I'm talking about.
It is O1 steel 5/32"
G10 scales
Full flat grind
The blade is a hair under 4" to be legal to carry in TN overall is about 8" long.
Epoxy is a waterproof flex stuff I found at O'Rileys auto parts. Not sure how it will hold up but I didn't want to drop a ton of money into a first experiment.
All done with files, a bench grinder, a little help from my rotozip, and hand sanded. I did make a jig as shown in Aaron Gough's video. I think a belt sander may be in my future though.
Hey man, saw this on TGO, I have the same username there. Nice job. As was mentioned the handle looks blocky to me and may cause hotspots. On your next, try rounding it more, no or very small flat surfaces, and make it egg shaped with the fat part of the egg on the spine side.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
Moderator
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2004
- Messages
- 38,522
BTW, the changes I mentioned are fully possible on your finished knife...especially re-shaping the handle a bit to be more oval/egg shape. The spine to butt line can be curved by grinding/sanding the butt down a bit to give it some drop. "Drop" is the divergence of the end of the handle ( the butt) from a straight line drawn along the spine. Fair that reduction into the spine with a smooth curve. As said, it doesn't take much to make a difference. A drop of 1/4" on the butt will look good.
I would just let the tit at the finger choil be as is, and deal with it if and when it snaps off.
If you have a grinder, the changes are fast. If you are doing it by hand, a visit to someone's shop who has a grinder to make the drop to the butt will save you some time. You can do the handle re-shaping easily with files and sandpaper.
Important - Dull the edge before any work. After adding some curve to the spine, tape up the blade well to avoid scratching it. After the handle is re-shaped and sanded to 400 grit, untape the blade and finish the spine to 400 grit. Take the knife to whatever finish level you wish, and when all is done, re-sharpen it.
I would just let the tit at the finger choil be as is, and deal with it if and when it snaps off.
If you have a grinder, the changes are fast. If you are doing it by hand, a visit to someone's shop who has a grinder to make the drop to the butt will save you some time. You can do the handle re-shaping easily with files and sandpaper.
Important - Dull the edge before any work. After adding some curve to the spine, tape up the blade well to avoid scratching it. After the handle is re-shaped and sanded to 400 grit, untape the blade and finish the spine to 400 grit. Take the knife to whatever finish level you wish, and when all is done, re-sharpen it.
I agree with the changes you've mentioned. I don't have a grinder, so the changes may have to wait a bit as I work about 70 hours a week.