Another K2 lock stick question - humor me

I'm not sure how deeply the carburization effects the titanium. I'm sure methodology changes the results. Personally I wouldn't polish it anymore just because I don't know if I'd be removing the hardened metal or not. You said it seemed to have helped so far? Maybe let it settle in for a few more days before you go at it again?

I inquired about a custom Fat Bowie a while ago. North of $1k made me change my tune quick!
 
I'm not sure how deeply the carburization effects the titanium. I'm sure methodology changes the results. Personally I wouldn't polish it anymore just because I don't know if I'd be removing the hardened metal or not. You said it seemed to have helped so far? Maybe let it settle in for a few more days before you go at it again?

I inquired about a custom Fat Bowie a while ago. North of $1k made me change my tune quick!

Yeah I think $550 is my limit on what I'll spend on a knife.

I will let it settle a day. And it is really my thumb that I need to let settle - the lock may work fine now but my thumb is shot to shit from repeated openings I cant tell.
 
Yeah I think $550 is my limit on what I'll spend on a knife.

I will let it settle a day. And it is really my thumb that I need to let settle - the lock may work fine now but my thumb is shot to shit from repeated openings I cant tell.

Haha, been there :thumbup:
 
Mine became less sticky after opening and closing for a couple of weeks . Still sticks a bit but I don t mind it because somehow it feels more secure (l bought that promotional story!). Opens extremely smoothly. Overall, I like that knife. A steal at 150.00!!!
 
I ran my one in the natural way, with a little bit of a cheat.

Found a small plastic brush with a handle size that fit between the scales. With a twist of the brush handle, open the lock. (Careful not to over extend the lock bar.) Finger pressure on top to close it. Give it 50 or so locks and unlocks and check it. If no better, give it another 50.

This replaces months of normal opening and closing of the knife.

But don’t over do it. My knife can be opened and closed with one hand, but there is a bit of lock stick at the beginning when closing. Which I think is a good thing and makes it a safer knife to use.

 
Great advice Reject. I did take Jimbo and DC's advice as well and ever so slightly bent the lock bar over, past where the overtravel stop would have kicked in. Just a few millimeters, and it worked wonders. Now the lockup is more like 50% where as before it was closer to 80%. Opens without so much force. It is still rock-solid in the lock up department, but not so damn sticky.
 
@seeverscpa Awesome! So Glad to hear it! I really love when members get "hands on" with their knives!
On another note, I forgot to mention that if you lubed the pivot....take your time and make sure you dry the tang
and the lock bar face. Even the slightest bit of oil on it will make the lock super sticky.
 
I've developed a procedure/habit to pop the lock with my index finger before I roll it over to access the lock with my thumb. The leverage and angle of the index finger while still in the cutting grip of my hand makes it effortless to pop the lock. Then when I use my thumb it's so easy the blade flies loose and scares me. LOL
 
Love the Matrix...

5 x 5 I realized that at some point, and you're right, it's almost effortless to pop the lock that way, which tells you it's all about leverage on this thing. It's just too hard to get the right kind of leverage if you're holding the knife like you normally would, when disengaging the frame lock. Using the method you describe, I unlock it, flip it over and there's very little effort needed to finish it one handed. Just don't put any pressure on the back of that blade else you lose a digit… LOL.
 
I've developed a procedure/habit to pop the lock with my index finger before I roll it over to access the lock with my thumb. The leverage and angle of the index finger while still in the cutting grip of my hand makes it effortless to pop the lock. Then when I use my thumb it's so easy the blade flies loose and scares me. LOL

Love the Matrix...

5 x 5 I realized that at some point, and you're right, it's almost effortless to pop the lock that way, which tells you it's all about leverage on this thing. It's just too hard to get the right kind of leverage if you're holding the knife like you normally would, when disengaging the frame lock. Using the method you describe, I unlock it, flip it over and there's very little effort needed to finish it one handed. Just don't put any pressure on the back of that blade else you lose a digit… LOL.

I keep saying this, and folks are either ignoring me, or scrolling right by it.

Try disengaging the lock left-handed, holding the knife in your left hand, and only with your left hand. The tips of your fingers will then not be accidentally pushing against the lock bar, like they can when you try to unlock the knife one-handed in your right hand.

The problem is that with a strong lock, when folks try to disengage the lock on the K2, they tend to tighten their grip on the knife involuntarily. If you look at where the tips of your fingers are pushing when that happens, they're pushing the lock bar against your thumb that is trying to disengage it, making it seem like the lock is sticking really badly, when it may not be. I can force the lock on my K2 all the way against the other scale, and still disengage it with only my thumb in my right hand, so long as I'm careful not to push on the lock bar with my other 4 fingers.

The lock is not as tight as people keep thinking! :rolleyes: It's that they're tightening the lock with their finger tips when pushing on it with their thumb, when doing it right-handed.
 
I keep saying this, and folks are either ignoring me, or scrolling right by it.



The lock is not as tight as people keep thinking! :rolleyes: It's that they're tightening the lock with their finger tips when pushing on it with their thumb, when doing it right-handed.

I acknowledge your point. The frame is so wide all of my finger tips are pressing on the lock bar. However even when I cinch my finger tips up on the pocket clip I can't pop the lock past my sticky point. I have to index finger it or second hand it first.
I even sit around just popping the lock in and out of the sticky point. Eventually I'll work it in. I hope.
 
This thread's got my K2 in my pocket lately. So I can molest it all day. :cool:
 
You know...I went through the whole checkout process for a K2 when they were at such a discount. Decided not to finalize and slept on it...didn't grab one. I was a fool!
 
You know...I went through the whole checkout process for a K2 when they were at such a discount. Decided not to finalize and slept on it...didn't grab one. I was a fool!

Yeah I want another one to keep new as well. I did see that BladeHQ now as an entire section on their site for discontinued sypderco's BUT it does not include the K2. http://www.bladehq.com/cat--Special-Sale--1244 They still have it at $239.97.

I sent them an email this morning letting them know (like they didn't already) that the K2 is officially on the discontinued list at Spyderco, that Knifecenter sold all theirs at $149.99, and that they should do the same. To my surprise they responded and the guy who wrote me back said he would let his boss know. Here is the response:

Hello,

Thanks for your email!

Unfortunately I do not know if this item will be placed on the discontinued items page soon or not. The only thing I can do is to inform the products manager and let them know that you inquired about it.

Contact us if you have any questions.

Thanks,

Kenton L.
Customer Service Representative


By the way BentoBox has them at the discontinued price of $199 and I see them going for $196.95 at Amazon (Stealth Rabbit) with free shipping.
 
Big fan of the K2.

I bought a brand new one, when a vendor dropped the price on the discontinued K2 to the lowest price, that Ive yet seen and count myself lucky.

K2 owners have frantically been dumping the K2 on the sales forum here at a higher price than brand new to make a buck/recoup funds, as they bought when the K was priced higher, ....and before too many found out, that they could by a new K2 way cheaper than from bf sales forum due to it being discontinued/discounted.

Interesting info on the K2 in this thread.

I SO look forward to the Spyderco Mini K2, which Sal and Farid Mehr has promised us!!!

Im not going to force any 'artificial wear' on the lock face, as any 'stick' doesnt bother me. This times ten:
With a blade that size, I have no problem using two hands to close it, just seems sensible to me.



I get minimal relief.

try some lubricant

Preparation H?

(you guys give me so much to work with ...:D)


You know...I went through the whole checkout process for a K2 when they were at such a discount. Decided not to finalize and slept on it...didn't grab one. I was a fool!
Yes!;-)
 
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I just love the giant Bowie blade.

IMO more 'Persian inspired' than Bowie.

I havent asked mr. Mehr though - would be interesting to hear his thoughts re the background of the K2 design.

KnifeCenter calls the K2 'Bowie style' as well.

Of course the parameters of what constitutes a Bowie knife are some what nebulous.....or fluid at best (to say the least).
 
Well lets hope the mini is along the same lines as this!!

http://www.knifecenter.com/item/FHC...per-tool-steel-blade-blasted-titanium-handles

Take a look at the "quick flip" video that is included in the link. Look at the beefy stand-offs and handle slabs. Also look at the guy attempt to disengage the lock bar - some serious stick there. He had to re-position his hand to get it to let go.

There are three models up at KC - a lager one and two mini's. One mini is a conventional grind with a minimal flat and the other mini is a full-flat ground. The blades are 3.875 inch on the mini. What a beast!

http://www.knifecenter.com/brands/index.html?id=572
 
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IMO more 'Persian inspired' than Bowie.

I havent asked mr. Mehr though - would be interesting to hear his thoughts re the background of the K2 design.

KnifeCenter calls the K2 'Bowie style' as well.

Of course the parameters of what constitutes a Bowie knife are some what nebulous.....or fluid at best (to say the least).

Perhaps it is his version of a bowie. Look at the Slysz Bowie compared to the K2 Bowie. When I see the Slysz I don't think Bowie. The point on the Slysz doesn't begin to ascend back up like on the K2.

A true "bowie" has the long straight blade with the "clip" like point a the end, traditionally that swedge was sharpened and you had a double-edged blade at the end. With the K-2 almost 3/5th of the knife is the bowie point.
 
Well lets hope the mini is along the same lines as this!!
Yea, thats the one Im rooting for.

Ive been looking at the Farid Mehr knives at KC numerous times - I have to quit doing that and wait for the Spyderco Mini Mehr though - if its anything like the Spyderco K2, its bound to be worth the wait.
 
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