another kmg grinder accessory question

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Jan 10, 2010
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I've finally got some money for a decent grinder and am leaning towards the KMG. I've looked at a lot of threads on setting this beast up.... but I still have questions...

do I need the base plate? I have a gnarly white oak work bench that I plan to convert for this grinder. What would be wrong with fastening it right to the oak?

Also... small wheels. At this point I only do flat grinds... are all the different small wheels used for hollow grinding on different size blades???

And..... benefit of 10" over 8"????

And.... I'm not set up for 220 in my shop. I'm going with variable speed... but what is the biggest downfall to a 1.5hp motor? I'm thinking of going with that.... upgrading to a 2hp later, and using the 1.5 to make a disk grinder...
 
You don't really need the base plate,Mine is mounted directly to the bench.
The small wheel attachment helps you get into all the little radiuses on your handles as in finger choils and such.If you don't want a small wheel now,I had Rob switch out the top wheel on my platen attachment with a 2" contact wheel.

A10" wheel will let you do deeper grinds on wider stock.

Stan
 
so... and forgive my ignorance... the small wheels are mostly for profiling... and hollow grinds are more typically done with the big contact wheels???
 
Yes mostly.Some guyys do deep hollow grinds with 3" wheels on razors and such but mostly the small wheels are used for finishing and profiling.
Stan
 
thanks a lot.... great idea on the top wheel.

so what are folk's opinions on the motor horsepower???
 
And..... benefit of 10" over 8"????
Bigger wheels make a hollow with less depth 14'' makes a grind almost flat. I started with 8'' seems to be a good all around wheel.
 
I second the 2" contact wheel on top :thumbup: If I had to do it over again I would go with the 2 hp...1.5 just seems under powered to me.Then again I do have some amperage isues in my garage.
I plan on picking up a small wheel adaptor for the finger choils and gaurd area,I just keep putting it off.
 
You don't need the plate, but it is nice to have. I've got 2 KMG and both have the plate. It makes the unit's semi portable if i want them to be (they weigh a frigging ton so portable is a matter of interpretation) but when in place, the extra mass and firm bolting to the metal base plate reduces the amount of vibration in the whole system by a whole lot. This makes it run much smoother for me than when I had my KMG bolted to an oak table.
 
Oh and one of my KMG is 1.5HP with 3 step pulleys running on 110, the other is 2hp variable speed on 220. I'll be quite frank that unless I'm /really/ leaning into the 1.5hp, it grinds just as well as the 2hp at the same speed.
 
I don't have a KMG but a BEE that is lots like an old Wilton plus a clown I built. I sure do recommend a 10" wheel over an 8" that I used for several years and would buy a 12" if it would fit. I just add this for your future times. By thev way, I started with the flat grinding but found the hollow grinding to be much easier to do. It will be wonderful to move up to a quality machine as I found the Bee was and still is. Frank
 
If you are set up for 220 already, get the 2 hp KMG variable speed. Its the same price as the 1 1/2 hp variable.
 
I have a baseplate on both of mine, and I am glad too. However, if it makes the difference between you getting the grinder or not... then forego it for now.

I have a 2hp on the first and 3hp on the second.... I like HP... but I have had a 1.5 hp 110V Burr King for 14 years that has ground MOST of my blades over the years. :)
 
Hey Scott!

It looks like you've gotten everything figured out. We received your order today and we will ship it tomorrow. Don't hesitate to drop us a line if you have any questions..we are always glad to try to help out.

-Rob
 
I JUST bought one and I have to say I'm really impressed. I shelled out the big bucks for the rotary platen, a 10 inch wheel and a detailing wheel, all of it seems very well built and the cadillac of grinders.
 
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